ProDave

When I was very much younger I had a rectangular piece of toughened glass from a vehicle. SWMBO (I had only just met her) wanted a smaller bit of glass for a cold frame. I tried scoring and snapping it. Yes you know exactly what happened.

Mine is in a wet room. There will be a small gap between the floor and the bottom of the glass but no form of sealing strip. If water gets under, no problem it's a wet room. the screen will be positioned just inside the sloping part of the room. The hinges I have chosen come with rubber pads to protect the glass. There are others available that do not. I am not sure of the logistics yet. I have had a quote from the glass company, I need to talk to them to see if they just want to trust the quoted measurements, or if they would prefer to be given the hinges and they fit them.

I just use an all plastic mdpe tap elbow into which a standard brass tap screws https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-mdpe-plastic-wall-plate-elbow-20mm-x/62324 The split ring on the left of your exploded assembly picture is supposed to have serations on the inside to grip the pipe. If the pipe is blowing off it is either not tight enough, or your serations are worn hence it is not gripping the pipe.

The local glass company (Inverness Glass in this case) will cut the glass to size, drill the holes and toughen it. All I have to do is collect it from them, attach the hinges and hang it. I will be having a 1900mm tall by 900mm panel. The challenge for us was it needs to hinge both ways and be frameless. I only found one off the shelf solution and they would not post it.

I am about to make my own. A set of these hinges https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Di-Vapor-R-180-Degree-Wall-Mounted-Shower-Door-Glass-Hinge-Chrome-Plated-UK/122969345040?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 And the glass will be coming from the local glass company. They will make it to any size I want, and this custom screen works out no more expensive than off the shelf offerings. (not to mention it's hard getting anyone to post a shower screen to the Highlands)

Another way to get rid of stuff is put it by your gate with a price tag on, say £10 It will probably be gone next morning.

What I found with ADW is there is a certain amount of negotiation room, a figure of 5% was once heard to be spoken. YOU have much more of a vested interest to negotiate the maximum discount you can, your timber frame company will not be so bothered. So you negotiate the best deal you can, then give that quote to the TF company and hat is the price they will pay. This is exactly what we did. There are two advantages to getting the TF company to buy them. the first is they will be doing "supply and fit" so if something does not fit, it is their problem to solve. It also means the TF company can charge you at zero VAT. If you bought them you would have to pay the VAT and wait until the end of the build to claim it back.

Would those fit into the end of a quarter turn isolator? I could do with restricting the basin flow so it does not overflow on full tilt.

Well the easy way is install 4KW and notify them. Let them upgrade the network, then add more and you might forget to notify that. I am not yet convinces of the economics of battery storage. Every time I look at it, the cost of the "free" stored power is not much cheaper than just importing it when you factor in battery life and replacement costs. That has to change for the better and I am sure it will, I just don't think we are there yet. I am pretty sure with HW heating and use of big appliances in the daytime it is not hard to self use most of what you generate.

So install the PV, wait for them to do the free upgrade work, then install any high power loads. Sorted.

So who disconnected the meter? If it was SSE why did they not take it then? It's a bit late now, but for the benefit of others, I would have kept it live, and switched to a zero standing charge tariff. I had that on my site and paid about £5 in nearly 2 years for the tiny amount of usage for a few tools.

Assuming the supply head and meter are going to stay for the time being in the box on the pole, then you just need an electrician to fit a mini consumer unit and run a feed to the hut. Then get the supply re energised and ditch that expensive pre payment meter. The sparky should know about building site earthing, i.e do not use a PME earth.

Happy with the shower flow. Don't want the ladies emptying the tank too quickly

Tell them it serves the new house. You might want to do at least part of phase 2, connecting the sewer pipe to the new plot at the same time.

So here is what I have done. I tried setting the PRV so that the dynamic pressure with the bath taps on full, was 3 bar. That resulted in the static pressure rising to 3.8 bar with the taps all off. So I have compromised and set the static pressure to 3.5 bar and that gives a dynamic pressure of 2.6 bar with the bath taps on. This has given a noticable improvement to the bath fill speed but strangely made hardly any difference to the shower flow which is still at 14 litres per minute. The shower flow is measured with the sceintific method of timing how long the shower takes to fill a bucket of known capacity.

I am skeptical. First off, your TV and your broadband will not provide you with a fibre connection. So what advantage speed wise will a fibre from your comms room to your tv provide? Just what are you going to stream, from where to what, that a good cat6 cable won't support? by all means install a conduit through which you can pull some future system cabling, but I am not convinced this will give any practical benefit. Concentrate more on real things like cabing for surround sound speakers etc.

So you are saying adjust the static pressure to 3.5 bar to get the dynamic pressure up to 2.5 bar. Won't that have implications for the warranty? Question still remains, if it should drop by 0.5 bar at 14L / min but is actually dropping by 1 bar isn't it "faulty"?

I am sure there is no crap in the strainer. Before the tank was fitted I had all the hot and cold pipes plumbed, and a temporary link, done with compression fittings from cold feed in, to hot and balanced cold out. That was well flushed through to get all the flux residue and other crap out of the system. When the tank arrived I simply removed the temporary link pipe, and connected the cold in to the PRV in with compression fittings, so no chance of crap getting in. I am not bothered about the flow rate particularly, it's just when I checked and saw the pressure drop so much, I thought that can't be right. We had pretty much the same setup at the last house so same PRV and I recall the baths filled a lot quicker, and one of those was plumbed in 15mm which didn't seem to restrict it much. @PeterW you talk about "decrease the restrictor by 0.45 bar" What is this resrictor you talk of? This is a pressure regulating valve that works by feedback and should (within limits) maintain a fixed pressure at the output. Are you saying as well as the pressure adjustment there is a restrictor?

So is mine faulty? should I be asking for a replacement?

Just moved the pressure gauge. Mains pressure is 6.5 bar and you can't even see the pointer move at all when you run a bath or shower, so mains pressure or flow is not the problem.

So not long back I fitted the Telford 300L heat pump col indirect HW tank. It comes with a pressure reducing valve. There is a cold water tap off point so the hot and the cold taps all get the same pressure regulated feed. Worth pointing out our mains pressure is in excess of 6 bar and has a fantastic flow rate. I have had a nagging doubt since installing it that the flow rates are not brilliant. Showers are okay at about 14L per minute, not fantastic but adequate. It's the bath flow that may prove an issue as that is not a lot higher. That may be the fault of the floor standing bath filler that cam with long inbuilt 1/2" flexis so that is bound to limit flow a bit. But now cut to the chase and get to the point of the thread. Today I borrowed one of the pressure gauges from one of the UFH manifolds and hooked it up to a pressure regulated cold water feed. Sure enough, it measures a static pressure of 3 bar as it is set to. But turn on say a shower (remember 14L per minute) and the pressure gauge drops to 2 bar. To me, it seems like the PRV is doing a poor job. With our high mains pressure and flow, that will not be the reason for the drop. It would appear that at 14L per minute the PRV can only maintain 2 bar. This is measured right at the PRV so it is not pipework causing the presure drop, and even if I just run a hot tap, so no flow through the cold feed where the gauge is, the pressure still drops. Before I discuss this with Telford technical, I would be interested if anyone has done a pressure measurement and what sort of pressure do you thing it should maintain? I would expect a drop but not down to 2 bar.

Water connection. It will come onto your plot and there will be a stopcock in the ground provided by the supplier. That is where the water company's responsibility ends. It is then up to you to connect water to where you want it. What I did was buy 3 more stopcocks like these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/atplas-box/123160048227?hash=item1cace93263:g:5uwAAOSwLe5avhqT Yes I know that listing has ended but it shows what you want. I used 3 of them, one feeds the standpipe for building water (which will remain as a garden tap) One feeds the static caravan (which in our case is remaining after the build) and the third feeds water to the house. Doing it this way you do it once and once only. I would bury the pipes to protect them from damage and frost. You are supposed to fit a double check valve on the feed to the caravan and the standpipe, and Scottish Water refused our connection initially until we had fitted them. Telephone, is it overhead or underground? Normally the engineer that makes the connection is flexible, get them to route it to the caravan but leave plenty of cable coiled up so it is long enough to reach into your house when you are ready. I would not trouble the telephone co with the move, your electrician can move it when you are ready.

Wood fibre can take render, in this case the Baumit.com version. Gives the traditional Highland look without any blockwork My wife and I fitted all the wood fibre ourselves then got a man to render it.

You have hit the nail on the head when you say they are disinterested. Took nearly 2 months for our connection which was a pantomime. Look on the bright side. WHEN it finally gets connected, get onto that CEO's number and negotiate your compensation. I got all but £5 of the connection fee refunded and a substantial discount for 12 months. I have just renewed even cheaper, they price matched what Plusnet would offer for a new customer. There is no need to pay BT anything like their fictitious full price.

That would be using it for something it was not designed for. And the expansion vessel and kit is cheaper.