ProDave

The thing with boundaries is how can you be SURE where they are without reference to some identifiable fixed object? How do you know the existing fence line does not already encompass title 2? Before you try and reclaim it from rear property, you would need to be absolutely certain he really has taken title 2 and you are not just trying to take a bit of his garden. You need to zoom out on your map / plan search to see if there is an identifiable feature perhaps in neighbouring properties that might show the definitive position of where the fences should be. Google satellite images are probably a good place to start, especially if you can find a dated set of images that show rear properties fence "falling down" and hence him claiming the land. If that happened >12 years ago then the chances are he could claim adverse possession.

This is my pallet shed. Welcome to the elite club of tight self builders.

One of the reviews says "connected with flexible connectors" and another says "I have used Straight Tap Connector 15mm x ¾" Item Number 36420 and ptfe tape, no leak perfect "

Our frame was detailed and drawn by the Arcitectural Technician. It was then built and erected by a local firm of builders. But had I been so inclined and had the time, I see no reason I could not have built it myself.

Ah I was expecting a google earth photograph or something. Well if your land already goes up to rear properties fence I can't see the issue. Looks like at some point there was a "gap" and it has been taken over. Do the neighbours also go up to rear property or do they still have a gap? I would just proceed and buy it.

I see no image?

Unless proving ownership of the extra strip is going to make or break the deal (I can't see why) I would not be too bothered. I assume "rear property" is fenced so "title 2" is in between your rear fence and rear properties fence? That should be easy to establish. If so remove your rear fence and fence in the sides of "title 2" when you move in. If you feel brave fence in the unregistered land as well. Either the owner(s) will be in contact shortly, or in 12 years you can claim adverse possession.

How about lift them up onto the roof with a telehandler? Is there a tame farmer nearby who would do it for a bit of beer money?

Are they really that heavy they need a crane? How about stepped scaffold and a group of mates to lift them up a step at a time? ALL my house windows went in this way and I am sure they are heavier and larger than these roof lights. This was my "scaffold stairs" used for the job, in my case inside but could equally be done outside.

Lets be clear here. @Onoff has a MID position valve which is normal for a boiler central heating system. It can feed water to either port or BOTH at the same time (there is a clue in the name) What @joe90 needs is a 3 port 2 way valve. It feeds water to A or B but never both at the same time. They are VERY different animals. The 2 way valve is simple, by default it feeds one way, energise it and it feeds the other way. The mid position valve imho is the work of the devil. It is both very clever and very complicated (and somewhat of a fudge) in how it works and it's wiring is very different and more complicated. A mid position valve will NOT work in this application. If yopu want to understand how the mid position valve works, take a read here http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/plumbing/controls/midpositionvalve.htm So for @joe90 lets not complicate the discussion by talking about mid position valves.

I suspect that is a case of rip out a boiler and fit a heat pump in an old house. Do they add extra insulation and make it more air tight to reduce heating load? Do they fit UFH so it can run at a low temperature quietly and efficiently? Or do they run it at high temperature into the same old radiators in the same old leaky house?

The plasterer was here today. He is just buying a plot to build himself a new house. He was asking about the heat pump as he said he has heard a lot of bad things about them and how noisy they are. I asked him "what can you hear just now" "nothing" ""So you can't hear the heat pump just ticking over slowly to keep the UFH running then can you? He still has some educating to do. He is talking about building a very well insulated house but still wants to heat it with an oil boiler and he does not want mvhr. I will keeep working on him....... The most noisy thing about my heating system is the circulating pumps on the 2 UFH manifolds. They would be just as noisy whatever provided the warm water for them.

As I say concentrate on getting "hot" water regardless. If as you say the valve is operating the wrong way, then it would heat your heating buffer tank "hot" rather than "warm" when you are demanding "hot" water. If it does that then you are a step closer and the valve operation is something else to work on later. Is there a temperature probe in the HW tank? if so with the immersion on, the tank will be hot and the heat pump won't heat the hot water any more.

Concentrate first on why the water is "warm" not "hot" What does the display say? does it say it's heating water or heating? If it thinks is is doing heating it will only be warm (and the valve will be in the correct position)

And the glass floor at the top of Blackpool Tower.

Before you tighten up, have a look that the olive is touching it's "cone" in the fitting. What can happen sometimes is the pipe is pushed in as far as it will go then tightened. Change the fitting for another, and the new fitting does not have as much room for the pipe, so the olive (already compressed and stuck to the pipe) does not seat in it's cone as the pipe has bottomed out in the fitting first. If you encounter that, shorten the pipe a bit. You learn this when no matter how tight you tighten it, it won't seal.

That is going to be a "marmite house" and personally I would be on the "I hate it" side. It just looks un finished. I wired a house a while back where the owner wanted OSB sheeting as the finished wall. The joiners did a very good job of making the OSB very neat, but again it just screamed not finished.

Only 1? Too much information.

Then the bottom quarter of your screen is covered in a pop up telling you to turn off your ad blocker.

I give them 9 out of 10 for trying. They have made it a similar size to a switch. To get 10 out of 10 it would need to be the same size, fit into a standard 1G electrical box, and be no thicker than a typical switch.

It sounds to me like you need to buy yourself a digger. You can get forks to fit on, or in place of a bucket, and a boom extension can make a handy crane, e.g our builder lifting the big ridge beam onto the house

Delivery to a new house can be a problem. I had a parcel not arrive and they kept telling me they tried to deliver but nobody was in and they had left a card. I was in and n card left. They tried this for 3 days. On the 4th day I saw the van go down the road, knock on the door of an empty house so intercepted him on the way back up the road. Sometimes delivery companies just do no pass on instructions to their drivers like "if there is not a green landrover parked in front of the garage, you are at the wrong house"

I would look at extending the whole end of the bungalow out, not just one side. That will give you a utility room or whatever you choose yo use the extra space the other side of the entrance for. You might tun into problems with where the building line runs in the side street, if your extension would stick out further forward than that, then it is not a given that PP would be granted. I had a similar situation with a previous house on a corner plot that took an appeal to establish the fact I could extend sideways.

That's a brave man cladding those dormers from a ladder. I would want some scaffold up personally.

Why so big?