ProDave

What prices are you seeing from EE? We don't get a three signal at all, but get a good EE signal, but I don't see anything that comes anywhere close to the cheap unlimited deals that three offer.

I could just erect a scaffold tower next to it to take the top off myself.

Well I wired this today. As expected no surprises. The pre made cable to connect to the programmer is somewhat on the short side. By the time it has got to the house there was not much left to reach very far. The pre made cable for the temperature sensor had to be extended. Just waiting for the plumber to water the system now before we can try it.

There is a guy round here who will take a tree down for £0. His payment is he gets all the wood. I might be trying him later this year if I find I still have a shading problem with the PV as the one I suspect will be a problem still can't just be dropped as it would land on the panels, so would need some aerial work.

I have never used gap filling solvent as I have never tried joining two fittings that have a "gap" Perhaps someone else will explain why that is necessary?

When I was down south I used to as it was the only way I could stand the traffic. Except in snow and ice, then I had to gin and bear the traffic in my car. I also didn't have to pay the 5p toll on the bike.

The regulations on socket and switch heights refer to "general purpose" sockets. You can have a dedicated function socket at any height you like, e.g. the high up one for the tv.

Get building control to have a look and document anything they are not happy with and pass that to the builder.

A toy car with a limited use. 56 mile quoted range. I could not rely on that to get me to Inverness and back without stopping for a charge. VERY limited use for a second car, but NEVER a main car.

The clue is "Foundations as per S Engineers spec" You are expected to have a structural engineer look at the soil type, which will probably involve digging some test holes, and he will specify what is needed for your ground conditions.

Basin purchased today. Visited several bathroom showrooms that all seemed to have too many digits on the price tag. Ended up in B&Q who had this priced at £48. But they had a sale on so that was 20% off, and another 10% off for signing up for their club card brought it down to £34.56 That does not look a great deal different to the others we had seen with the decimal point one too many places to the right. Just got to order the tap, waste and trap now (B&Q did not have any tall taps nor chrome traps) The mockup now has the worktop height lowered a bit and the worktop made a bit deeper. That seems to work okay there with plenty of clearance from the wall / ceiling.

Shortly fitting the en-suite. It will have a counter top Basin. Underneath will be open shelving, so I will use a chrome waste and trap. This trap in all probability https://www.toolstation.com/bottle-trap-in-chrome-plated-brass/p85046 Here is a pretty picture of the trap The chrome pipe will pass through the back wall into a service void where it will join to solvent weld waste pipe to the drain stack. HOW do I join the chrome pipe to the solvent weld pipe? Preferably with an elbow fitting Is is as simple as an elbow compression fitting? Question 2: I will be using this waste https://www.toolstation.com/click-clac-1-14-chrome-plated-brass-basin-plug/p88739 I assume that trap will screw onto that waste? The description of the waste fitting confuses me by pointing me to a fitting you will need to connect it to waste pipe, but you would not normally connect a waste fitting directly to waste pipe without a trap so what is that all about?

Buying a VW Touran cured me of any belief that VW made good cars.

I thought a Trannie was a van made by ford.

There are several very similar treatment plants that work on the air blower principle. So as well as the BioPure, also look at the Conder (which I have) Vortex and Graff units. I take it you are discharging to a watercourse which you are no longer allowed to do with a basic septic tank?

Your electrician should be able to tell you when he connects stuff whether it is 2 phase (with the third missing) or 460V centre tapped (which is really single phase)

Well as most people under the age of 20 now listen to music on their smart phones, a 3" speaker probably sounds to them like the height of high fidelity.

Yes but "2 phase" is no use to man nor beast, you won't find any 3 phase machines. So what you have ordered is two single phase supplies. I will be interested to see how they meter this.

There should be an adjustment to set heating water temperature and DHW temperature separately.

DHW is heated to 48 degrees by the heat pump. That was found by experiment the hottest I could hold my hands in for washing up. I see no point having DHW that is too hot to touch. UFH runs a lot lower than that.

RYY suggests Red, Yellow, Yellow If it were 3 phase, old colours, it would be Red, Yellow, Blue or new colours Brown, Black Grey Did you want 3 phase? I have never heard of 2 phases being installed, unless you have a very high load I can't see the point.

You should build what you have planning permission for. If you build bigger you risk enforcement action which could mean you have to take it all down. If you want to go bigger, apply for planning for bigger.

You would normally get someone technical involved with applying for an electricity connection. The DNO's are very worried about high starting currents which will cause a dip in voltage ad the unit starts up. So they ask for this information. imho they are being too worried. It is only old design heat pumps or some of the cheaper ones that use Direct On Line starting and have these very high inrush currents. A modern inverter driven heat pump does not.

Choose an inverter driven heat pump. 1: is it's electrical input rating, less than 2kW for a 5kW heat pump for instance. 2: single phase unless you want something massive 3: Soft start inverter drive 4: starting current same as running current in 1: And pick a make and model that you might choose. Of course you might change your mind.

On the new build I am on I noted today, that the D2 pipe has 9 bends or elbows in it. 22mm pipe. That would reduce it's allowable length to just 1.8 metres. but it must be at least 6 metres long. What's the betting BC never notice. The plumber is not always right.