ProDave

What does the HP say it's flow temperature is reaching? If it really is hot right at the HP but cooler just a short distance away, it suggests the water flow rate is too low? Which is strange as most heap pumps get very upset if the water flow rate is too low. To be clear are you measuring all the temperatures at different points with the same thermometer?

Hi and welcome That sounds a really interesting project, please do tell us more.

When I was buying red, there was only 1 petrol station, nearly 20 miles away selling it. The closer place was the coal merchant who sold red diesel and kerosene from a pump. They are also the local place for LPG cylinders so probably better to describe them as a fuel merchant.

They will take your average SE profit over the last 3 years, and pay you 80% of that for 3 months, capped at a maximum of £2500 per month as a taxable grant.

Why have you fallen through the net? My tenants run the B&B and have 3 years accounts and the bulk of their income is from the self employed B&B business. So I fully expect them to qualify for the grant of 80% of their average income. Why won't you?

With a tape measure to indicate the depth of the pipe.

It would for Scottish Water who would expect to do a track inspection before they will make the connection.

There is an expectation in accepting the government grant, that you expect to carry on trading and be trading next year as well. Si I will tick over doing whatever small amount of work I am allowed to and will take the grant of offered it, I will still be trading next year though at what level who knows? My overheads working from home are very low and mostly paid up for a few months already.

You can go and do some food shopping and call in at the petrol station and fill a jerry can with white diesel.

Where is the leak. They are essentially the same fitting, one is made by whoever made the lockshield valve, the other is made by whoever made the TRV. All the parts that came with the TRV should stay together. It does not matter which goes in which end of the radiator.

Pictures?

When I re plumbed my 1930's house 30 years ago, they were all 1/2" and 3/4" Then you could buy adaptors, both compression and solder to go between imperial and metric.

You won't need to drain the whole tank for that. And if you REALLY mean a 3/4" pipe I hope you have already sourced the fittings, as 22mm won't fit.

That's some damned thick dot and dab then. The only D&D house I ever had, there was barely any gap between the block and the plasterboard.

Wouldn't want to rush the joib.

Every house I have owned has had at least some push fit waste pipe and I have never known a failure. Solvent weld has it's place. I usually use it for smaller like 30 or 40mm and occasionally 110mm where in some cases a solvent weld fitting took up less space (for getting fittings between posi joists) But most of my house is done with push fit and I have no issue boxing it in behind plasterboard.

You block the drain to stop it emptying AT ALL. You will also need to block the stink pipe, and then pump it up from one remaining drain.

A lesson from this thread for the novice might be forget solvent weld and use push fit where you can. No time limit, plenty of time to do each joint one at a time, and if you have a space issue, a slip coupling is your friend.

Running a tap is NOT a leak test. You need to get a proper drain test kit, which has plugs to plug the end, and you pump it up with air. If this job is subject to building control they will probably insist on witnessing that anyway. NOW is the time to get it right, not to find it has a small air leak after it is all boxed in and finished.

@BotusBuild Did you put the ptfe tape on to start with? I have never heard of that being done. I have put ptfe tape on when re sealing an existing compression joint, but never when doing one from scratch. A smear of my trusty water hawk potable water jointing compound often helps as well.

Hi and welcome. Not far from me then (I'm 20 miles north of Inverness) A big problem with a lot of old steadings is the almost complete lack of foundations. Assuming you will want to dig out the floor t insulate it, be careful. Very few are left as bare stone, most line and insulate the inside. How about just leaving one stone feature wall. Sounds like an interesting project.

There will be some type of filtering on the input which inevitably means some leakage. With no earth, the case would probably adopt a voltage somewhere between L and N and would give you a shock if you touched it,

Yes, otherwise it will add unwanted heating in the house when just trying to do DHW in the summer.

Our cat would have taken that from your hand. No she would have taken it from the wood pile.

Self employed people will be scouring the rules to say where it says I can (or at least confirm it does not say I can't) Employees will just take the general guidance without looking at the detail and say "I can't"