ProDave

The only thing I see missing is the individual actuator valves to turn each zone / loop on and off individually. I would love to see a simple solution to add that to this sort of home made manifold.

My No 1 tip to any self builder designing a new house, is design the roof as a warm roof, with the insulation between and above the rafters. It is so much easier to detail the insulation and air tightness compared to a cold roof, and it gives you a nice warm roof space for storage or plant like MVHR etc.

Yes, but mine was for distribution of hot and cold water to bath and basin taps, not for UFH.

No flow meters? no zone actuators? Not knocking it just saying it is unconventional.

Most of the trees I took out, I pushed them over as a full tree, you can push much higher up and get more leverage. The chainsaw only came out when the tree was out of the ground and lying on it's side. The only one I had trouble with was the largest one, nearly 2ft diameter at the stump. Getting the tree to move and push over was easy, but that one had hundreds of very springy roots and they just would not pull out of the ground. I ended up cutting most of those and leaving them.

That would probably work okay on a thin shower panel, but I have had very disappointing results trying that on a kitchen worktop.

Thanks. They don't "sell" them very well. Had I not looked closely at the picture or read the reviews I would never have known their USP was they are downward cutting.

Never seen a downward cutting blade? It was the upward cut and risk of splitting the finished surface that stopped me using the jigsaw or circular saw and used a good old fashioned downward cutting panel saw.

Hi and welcome. Whic part of Oxfordshire, that's where I used to live.

Many of us on here bought our own diggers, mine was a prehistoric 3 ton tracked 360 degree machine. Every joint had lots of play, but it worked, everything I broke I fixed, and sold it for exactly the same as I paid for it. Working on your own site on your own you don't need qualifications. If you are familliar with 360 machines, just be aware the first time you jump in one, the controls of the back hoe on a JCB are a bit different.

I cut mine with a sharp panel saw, but I only needed to cut straight lines.

One thing I have found when trying to operate or understand something complicated, is you read a bit of the manual, press a few buttons, then refer back to the manual again to see what to do next and go to do that, only to find because you have not pressed buttons for a while it has timed out of it's menu's. So not only do you need a good understanding, you need a good memory to remember a sequence of button presses and do them quickly.

Multipanel also do a version with tongue and groove joints but I suspect you still need a corner joint piece.

Yes low voltage presumably DC but I have never measured what it is. I use a mains voltage timer as a timed boost and that just drives a relay to close the chosen boost speed contact. another "feature" is you can close more than one of the speed inputs at a time and it will go to the fastest speed chosen. Hence my normal speed input is always selected and my chosen boost speed input is closed as well when required.

But if he bought the plot, knowing the option to drain into adjacent land had been blocked, and the solicitor advised him of that fact, how is the solicitor negligent?

@joe90 If you wanted to control the Mitsubishi fan speed from something like a Raspbery Pi or Arduino then you would need four small relays each driven from a digital output and they would close the contact on one of the 4 available speed inputs.

There is probably an option to turn off all temperature compensation. Get the installers to turn that off.

A basic principle of all control systems is as you approach the set point (in this case the temperature you have set on the dial is the set point) the system must reduce the amount of power (in this case slow down the rate of heat input) If you maintain full power input (full temperature radiators) until you reach the required temperature, then turn it off, the room temperature is likely to overshoot (ho higher than the temperature set on the thermostat) All people are saying, is try turning the room thermostat up a lot higher than you want, and then turn it back down when you feel warm. That might get the rooms up to temperature quicker.

The surplus rainwater must soak into the ground now otherwise your site would be a pond now?

Yes, the drainage field goes on top of the big pile of expensive sand, then you cover it with soil so you have a "hill" in your garden. Alternatively, dig even deeper and see if you can find something better below your band of clay?

You must be 100% SURE that the boiler AND the UFH manifold are indeed connected to the SAME circuit before you make that assumption. Not only the same circuit, but possibly the same sub circuit. i.e you may have a "heating" circuit from the consumer unit that feeds the boiler via one Fuses Connection unit and feeds the UFH manifold via another Fused connection Unit in a different place. It would not be acceptable to link the grey to the boiler call for heat under that situation. If you had the motorised valve you could connect the grey and orange to the boiler L and SL but you don't Unless you can be more certain about how it is all wired, the only safe way I can advise at the moment is a relay with a 240V coil connected where the motirised valve brown and blue are shown, and the relays NO contact connected to the boiler L and SL.

That's an interesting find. What I find particularly interesting is that seems to not have a trickle vent. That is something the other manufacturers charge extra not to fit.

thanks that's a readable version. Have you got that 2 port motorised valve shown in the diagram?

I can't read that drawing, even if I zoom in, it's too fuzzy to read. Can you take a higher resolution picture. Be VERY careful, that is a 24V UFH controller, you might need a relay to connect to the boiler if it does not already have a volt free contact output but I can't tell from that drawing. Oh and rotate the camera so it posts the right way up, my neck was getting a crick trying to read it. (meant in the nicest possible way)

Get whoever did the design SAP to now issue the "as built" SAP. He will need all the details of exactly what has changed from design to build.