ProDave

The No 1 question is how much insulation did you put under the floor before laying the UFH? It sounds like it is an old house with little insulation so whatever you do will have to work with that. Have you tried running it 24/7 at a lower water temperature? Then you can play with the water temperature to find the optimum temperature to keep the heating running most of the time, i.e. the minimum temperature it can get away with and still get enough heat into the house. What is heating the UFH?

My static is 1M from my boundary. The Guidance note from Highland council is just clarifying building regs, confirming that you can build a portable building that complies with the definition of a "caravan" (which it makes clear does not even mean it has to be on wheels) and it can be exempt from building regulations. This is quite separate to the question of do you need planning permission for it.

So when the fan switch is ON the lights flash, but when the fan isolator is OFF the lights behave normally? You are getting leakage from the switched L of the timer fan circuit. If you have fan and light on a separate switch I would disconnect the timer, it's not needed.

I believe permitted development rules for sheds, caravans etc only apply to the garden ground associated with your house. A whole different set of rules apply to what you can do on agricultural land and I am not up to speed on those.

Just to be clear, are the spotlights flashing when OFF and on normally when on? And are they LED lights?

If it's use is incidental to the main house it is permitted development. Are you a croft? If so I believe that bestows some rights to caravans as well.

Well if bleeding and cleaning the end of the flame sensor does not fix it would get it properly serviced. 5 years is a long time for a burner jet.

When was the last time it was properly serviced? It could be burning badly with a worn jet or just badly in need of adjustment?

Well at least try bleeding the oil line again and check the flame sensor. both are so easy to check.

When it starts, you should first hear the fan start, then another noise as the oil pump starts, then a repeated clicking like a tazer going off and then the roar of the flame. If the sensor does not detect the flame within a certain number of seconds it will all shut down and lock out.

You are looking for a black flying lead that plugs into a hole and when you withdraw it you will see a sensor like this If you are hearing the flame roar, but the sensor is not seeing it, it is either just covered with soot at the end or it's faulty.

Try bleeding it again. Check the flame sensor. This is a plug in sensor who's job is to see the flame, I think it's little more than a photocell. A common failure is the lens on the end of the sensor is sooted up so it won't see the flame and just needs a wipe to clean it. Do you hear a roar of the flame starting up? if not could be the ignitor.

I am pretty sure that is the same people I bought a load from who also sell on ebay which I found a convenient way to buy it.

We all know by the time the bathrooms are done and the dormer has been rebuilt, they will decide to knockdown ad rebuild........

Look on the bright side. At least now you can get the pipe falling away from the pan. Now I am not usually a betting man, but I will wager this will NOT be complete before Christmas. I am not yet convinced this thread will rival the length of the "boxing in" thread. BUT. Looking at all that space in the loft. I would fit a back to wall pan and concealed cistern in the loft.

Yes I am the first to agree they are over priced, but there is otherwise no such thing as a "Normal Plot" in Oxfordshire. the reason we never built there was we could never afford a "plot" as about the only way they ever came up was a knock down and rebuild, where you were paying not far off finished house price for a plot. It wasn't until we moved up here where plots are always for sale at plot price, that we got to self build.

Because you know who has "splashed" on the towels.

Just been to measure. The WC room in our static caravan measures 690mm wide. That is definitely at the "cosy" end of the spectrum. Placing of the loo roll holder needs care so it is not in the way, and there is even a tiny wash hand basin to squeeze past on your way to the loo. The wall between the shower and WC will be fine at 100mm so will buy you a bit more "room to manoeuvrer" but why not make it a glass panel of negligible thickness?

I seem to suffer very little plaster cracking anywhere. I am convinced this is because there was quite a long time gap between the frame going up and getting to do internal finishings like plastering? I have just been round all the downstairs window reveals and they are all as crisp as when they were plastered and painted about 3 years ago.

Why make anything complicated? Simple window reveals boarded with plasterboard, plastered then painted. After cleaning the excess plaster off the windows they have been painted and 4 years on not a crack to be seen between the plaster and the window.

Yes as above, BC are not interested in the heat pump but do want the G3 UVC paperwork.

A few basics. Most of the actuators used in UFH manifolds are hot wax rather than a mechanical motor. The picture above showed a UFH manifold without a temperature blending valve. Make SURE you include a temperature blending valve to regulate the flow temperature in the UFH and a manifold pump to circulate the water around the UFH loops. It is normal to have a control box with each manifold. this reads all the room thermostats and it's job is to turn the manifold pump on when any room calls for heat, open the actuator(s) for that room, and provide the "call for heat" to the boiler when any room is asking for heat. In a new system use 2 port valves to direct heat to manifold(s) radiators and DHW as required. Do not use 3 port and especially 3 port mid position valves, they are the work of the devil imho, I have individual room thermostats in my house. What is very interesting from that is the utility room takes very much longer to heat up and keeps asking for heat long after the other rooms are satisfied. This is a general finding I have found that rooms like our utility room that use aluminium spreader plates put less heat into the room than the rest of our ground floor that has the pipes set in dry sand/ cement pug mix.

draught proof strip around the frame? The reality is if the rest of the house is air tight and sealed you won't get much draught. In a well sealed house you can open one door or one window and you won't get a draught.

It would be interesting to see the inside of one of these meter boxes. I wonder what sort of cable clamp they use? The UK standard supply head has no cable clamp, the cable ends just terminate into the supply head and are fine because nothing moves, but if you are moving a live meter box there is a risk of a connection coming loose which would probably end badly.

You really want to use an 80A fuse in your switch fuse to discriminate from the suppliers 100A fuse, and that would allow you on up to about 24 metres to use 16mm if you really wanted to.