ProDave

I used Tongue Tite screws for mine https://www.screwfix.com/p/tongue-tite-screws-3-5-x-45mm-200-pack/85991

A related question, should retailers be allowed to offer a Black Friday special offer when they only have a very few at that price? e.g log onto the website a few minutes before the offers go "live". Keep refresihing the page every few seconds until it ticks over midnight and the offers go live, only to find them "sold out" a few seconds past midnight.

No just on the bottom of the excavated hole. It had to go in and come out I think 3 times before we got the bottom of the hole level and it was sitting level. Then a day of mixing, barrowing and pouring concrete to fill the hole above the "ring" and anchor it in place.

I would like to see this house because from the snippets I see I just do not have an overall feel for what it is and how it fits in, or even any hint of it's size. Did you escape without buying some walk on glazing that rumour has it he might have for sale?

Yes that voltage free switch is what needs to connect to the Ecodan room thermostat input. I was hesitating because a different UFH controller has a similar set of contacts where it is a switch input, and without anything to annotate the terminals on the pcb I wanted to be sure.

You are correct at the Ecodan end, but before I can answer the Wunda end, I need more information like a page from the instruction manual detailing ALL the connections. I am not sure the one you have shown a picture of is the right one.

20mm gap will be too big to cover with your skirting though?

I used all Ejot screws anf the big plastic caps. The screws were not the best with a habit of the head stripping, I ended up referring to them as etij screws.

Thanks for the plan. It looks NOTHING like I had visualised from the description, I was expecting 3 rectanfular plots in a row fronting a long road. I would think you stand a fair chance of getting PP there on the basis of "rounding off a development" If it were me I would suggest to the vendor that you make an offer to buy it, subject to gaining PP and would of course pay his uplift as well, then subbit an outline planning applications. This is exactly what I did when buying our plot.

A few patches of the top coat render have blown. As far as I know (not totally sure until the remedial work is done) the base coat is intact. The affected areas don't coincide with any joints let alone expansion joints (we have none) and I am sure are not related to building movement (none noticed) We will be doing the remedial work in the spring now. Due to Covid, it has been impossible to get the suppliers rep to visit the site so see the problem. I really really wanted that to happen. The only "resolution" I have been offered is the plasterer will pay for the material and do the work FOC but I would really want an answer of what went wrong so will try again in the spring to get the rep to visit before we start the repairs. My biggest concern is the repair patches will be visible either by being a different colour or texture, but equally don't wnat to have to re do each of the 2 affected walls completely.

The inverter won't clip or dump 2kW of power, it will just take it to a less eficcient MPPT The issue will be input DC voltage per string, so you will need to check carefully what the inverter can support. My gut feeling is 6kW of panels into a 3.68kW inverter will be too much.

I only tried plastering once, at my previous 1930's house, just patch repairs like this. I would love to know what I was doing wrong. It mixed up and went on okay but set it a matter of minutes and I could hardly get it flat before it was going stiff and became unworkable and ended up with a poor finish. Then when we had an extension built and had a plasterer in I was staggered by how long it remained workable. I had assumed it was because he had plastered a whole room and it was so wet and humid in there it stopped it drying out too quick?

That's one massive area they have excavated around the area of the house. And it all suddenly seems to have dried up. I was looking forward to the concrete lorries getting bogged in the mud. And when they had that "bathroom in a trailer" for their trial glamping site, can someone explain to me where the contents of the flush toilet and the bath drained to?

I tried that with one of the major Scottish Timber Frame suppliers. I was not happy with their level of insulation so dropped into the conversation that I would be looking to upgrade the insulation levels to meet my requirements. They withdrew from the conversation and refused to quote saying some waffle like "there is no synergy between what we offer and what you want"

What is the back story there? What was the cause for the failure? Link to anything describing it (I still have some issues with my rendering, also the Baumit system)

I take it that's Goonhilly?

To be honest that sort of lifestyle could only be achieved by living on a narrowboat and continuous cruising. I very much like that idea in fact it is near the top of our retirement bucket list.

I will be ordering my sun room windows early next year. Circumstances have contrived to ensure I was not able to do that this year. Oh I am looking forward to it (not)

If this was possible then everyone would be living in a shed or caravan in the woods. The nearest I can find is someone near here bought a building plot with PP for a house and for the last 5 years has been living there in a Yurt, with no sign of actually building a house. It will be interesting to see if the planners take any action or just let him carry on in his yurt.

Reading this thread and all the sealing of holes from the house to the loft just confirms my belief that the way to get a truly good eficcient house now is a warm roof, so all the loft space (if any) is within the warm sealed envelope of the house. It is only services in and out of the building that have to be detailed and sealed.

This one was about £200 total, I think it was from Wickes, if not another one of the sheds. SWMBO chose it.

Hi and welcome. Sounds like an interesting project. Pictures. We like pictures. please?

Time to do some negotiating. I am paying £36 for Landline, Broadband and one mobile phone sim.

I think he is referring to stinking outside. I have made the point several times that I believe my ASHP is about as noisy as the burner on an oil boiler. Exept that noise from the ASHP is outside so I don't hear it, whereas the last house had the oil boiler inside the utility room.

I pay a few pence over £5 per month for my mobile contract, which while not unlimited, gives me all the calls I need. The landline is there for broadband and receiving calls. I can't remember the last time I used the LL to make a call, it is too expensive. About the only time I make a call on the LL is to an 0800 number which for some stupid reason is not free on a mobile.