ProDave

Don't take this the wrong way, but the best thing you could do there is change that for a new, well insulated tank, with a built in immersion heater. Or if you don't want to do that, isn't that a blanked off immersion port in the top? Put a long immersion in there to directly heat the tank and forget the willis in this application.

I believed others on here who said heating in bedrooms was unecessary. The heater points were only fitted for the benefit of other house members who did not share the faith and needed convincing there would be some form of heating if needed.

Wet both upstairs and down. I did what several have done, installed dedicated heater points in each bedroom so a small electric panel heater could be fitted if the bedrooms were found to be too cold. And like others that have done that, they remain unused.

We have UFH downstairs and upstairs only in the bathrooms. Here in the Highlands where -10 is normal and a daytime high 0 still below 0, it performs well. Bedrooms not usually below 17 usually 18 or more. Bathrooms are heated with spreader plates, chipboard then tiles. That does not seem to give as much heat to the room as downstairs with UFH in biscuit mix and wood floors. So in the bathrooms it is more to prevent complaints of a "cold floor" rather than much in the way of significant heat input.

Didn't they say that about nuclear power, it would be so cheap there was no point in metering it?

For a different model, but try contacting this one and see if they are the same size https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Joblot-Record-104-steel-pipe-cutter-wheels-and-pins-3-wheels-3-pins/254912533367?hash=item3b59f89377:g:ZJYAAOSwUj5gWKoQ That remands me. I recall my dad having a chain wrench pipe cutter for seriously big pipe. It did not end up in the tools I cleared out from his garage so I suspect it is still there, hanging from a nail off the wall, quite rusty by now..... EDIT: I think it was this one he had https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Record-No-45-cast-iron-pipe-cutter-with-13-links-and-14-sharp-wheels-Heavy-duty/193888028378?hash=item2d24a086da:g:KuMAAOSw3ypgJN6R Looking at that price, I must make a point next time I am down there to see if I can find it amid all the cobwebs.

I would close off that awkward corner and incorporate it as part of the under stair cupboard with a clever arrangement that you can access it when the pocket doors are slid into the room.

To upgrade old housing stock you really have to strip it right back, e.g the vast majority of old houses with timber floors have absolutely no insulation under the floor boards. Of you strip that back, insulate the floor and put UFH down before putting the floor back you have improved the house a lot and made it "ASHP compliant" But you are not going to do that in an occupied house. When will we see councils leading by example with a process to properly upgrade their old houses? i see a lot here having EWI applied which can be done with tenants in situ but things like floor insulation and UFH would need tenants out for the duration of the work.

I have a different make (no doubt a cheaper make) of roller door and i found the plastic guides that guide the door off the roll down into the track were abysmal and the door kept catching on them. I re fabricated something much better in aluminium. the "dent" issue looks more like something is stuck inside the box where the door rolls on, you need to take the cover off and have a good look at what is going on inside there.

There is a proposal near here to build a hydrogen plant powered entirely by wind power from the Moray Firth offshore wind farm. It seems to be aimed at industrial uses like the nearby distilleries. I would love to see the costings and CO2 emissions of using wind power to generate hydrogen to be piped to a distillery to be burned, vs just using the very same wind power directly at the distillery with resistance heating. I see hydrogen as a better contender for vehicles where quick refueling time is the USP over pure electric cars.

Your issue will be how close to your boundary the planners will accept. The building line of the adjoining road will be an issue, you will be going in front of that. On the plus side your tall garden wall already breaches the building line and blocks any visibility so there won't be a visibility issue. Only by putting a planning application in will you find out for sure.

Yes the headline is moronic. BUT it actually discusses the issue faced with swapping every house from a gas boiler to a heat pump, highlighting that in most cases it is a LOT more than just swap the boiler for a heat pump. Unless we get this discussion and understanding, there are going to be a lot of houses with poor heat pump systems and they really will have houses that cannot get warm enough in very cold weather. Those of us with modern well insulated houses successfully being heated by small ASHP's even in cold climates show it can be done, but the elephant in the room is such a huge amount of the UK housing stock is anything but well insulated and airtight, and that is where the serious money needs to be spent to address that. But how. I often feel a 21st century "slum clearance" is needed to flatten and rebuild some of the worst housing, but I can't see it happening. Instead we will bumble along carefully avoiding that elephant and thus not making so much of a difference to energy use and CO2 emissions. And this quote Does not give me ANY confidence that a government run scheme will ever be able to solve the problem. We (the government) just seem incapable of managing such a thing.

I would say the plumbing is pretty much the same as plumbing a system boiler, so any plumber should be able to do that. Electrical wise, the controls can be a little more complex than a boiler and it varies a great deal from one make to the next. What you need is a competent electrician that is familliar with heating systems and is prepared to read and digest what it says in the installation manual. You may have an issue if not installed by a heat pump specialist that you may only get 1 year warranty, and any extended warranty offered may be conditional on using a particular installer.

RHI is NOT compulsory, indeed some of us are a but cynical that the install prices are hiked so the only person that benefits is the installer. It is the worst case heat loss you need to know. If yours is really about 5kW then bear in mind you will need an ASHP larger than that as otherwise it would need to run 24/7 just to keep up with the heat demand leaving no time for hot water or no off time.

As far as I know there is no way to manually turn on the internal willis heater. It uses it under certain circumstances to legionairs cycle, for defrosting, and as an emergency heater under some fault conditions.

Yes but the "surcharge" we pay is the same regardless of who we choose. So it the "base rates" of all suppliers were simply tabulated, it would be easy to make a comparison, even if you do actually pay slightly extra on top.

I find the whole tariff thing so frustrating and "hidden" Most suppliers do not just publish their cost per kWh you have to "get a quote" to find that out. and the comparison sites are not much better. I wish someone ould just publish a table of all the different suppliers, simply stating for each, Import cost per kWh, Export payment per kWh (if any) and dailiy standing charge. That is ALL anyone needs to know to choose the best for them.

"Standard" 4kW array with inverter limited to 3.68kW so no prior DNO permission needed. Near 100% self usage achieved by using the big appliances in the daytime and dumping excess to the immersion heater. Roughly 1/3 of what the PV produces goes to the immersion heater. Once you get over 4kW it becomes harder to self use it, and also becomes harder to justify the extra cost if you only get 5p per kWh for export.

Do you mean a proper old Feed in Tariff where you get paid for what you generate? Or an export tariff where you get about 5p perk Wh for export? In just over 2 years, if I had qualified for an export payment I would have been paid so far the grans sum of £11

That would break my heart 2.2kW going to "waste" into the grid for no payment.

Sod the window cleaner, I want to know how that roof stays up without spreading, with no visible ridge beam and a structure that looks too slender to have gusset pates at all the corners? Oh and how does it comply with building regs with no opening means of escape? Does it actually exist? or is it just a picture of what someone would like?

Lets see the other side of the handle, a view of the handle on the door for example? Is there a "cap" you can remove to give access to a nut to tighten it on?

You do NOT want a thermal store with an ASHP. you need a much larger thermal store to get the same heat out as a UVC, and a thermal store needs the water storing at a hotter temperature which is a conflict with an ASHP.

This is a 4mm thick "insulated" lining paper. Don't expect it to make a great deal of difference to the overall heat loss. If only it was that easy.

Best of luck cutting holes for socket boxes. That is a situation where I would finalise socket positions to match in with the tiles. That is a lot easier if the tiler and the electrician is the same person.