ProDave

Since you have paid up front for all the work but not had all the work done, I would now be writing a "letter before action" to the first builder stating you want him back on site to complete the work that you have been paid for, or you will be taking the matter to court.

If you want simplicity, there are some on here with a passive house that heat it with wet under floor heating with the water heated by a willis heater, which is just an immersion heater in a small tube. That gives a cheap, very simple heating system with little to go wrong.

It all depends what SEPA say on your discharge permit. I found SEPA were against discharge to a watercourse and only allowed that for us after we had submitted 2 different schemes to building control that had both been rejected. Only then did they grant a discharge permit which stipulates the partial soakaway.

If you are building a well insulated air tight house with mvhr and PV then go the conventional route of air Source heat pump with wet under floor heating and an unvented hot water cylinder. This will be more eficcient than direct electric heating, and make self using the power from your solar PV easy. Infra red heating is a poor solution aimed at heating people not the building fabric and applicable to old poorly insulated buildings not used continuously, e.g churches etc.

IF you were planning to tile the room anyway, then i think the cost difference is minimal. You buy a wet room shower former instead of a shower tray, and you buy a tanking kit which includes a tile decoupling and waterproofing membrane. The finished result is vastly better.

If you told us the exact nature of your complaint it might help? The height of any new fence would be dictated but the ground level now. Are you trying to say the ground now slopes more or less than you expected it to?

I was just wondering a few days back why I could not find it. It's been replaced with aon old Ugly house to Lovely house. Next week perhaps?

That looks like a picture from the neighbours side. the previous picture was from your side. What is needed is a picture dead along the boundary line.

When I laid our floor boards upstairs, I left a strip at each end that should be easy to lift, tongues cut off etc and screwed down. So in theory i can thread a new cable along from one end of the room to another, so if I wanted a new light fitting I should be able to pull a cable through to it etc. What more access do you want?

Is the CU in place yet? If not I might suggest it is in the wrong place. Ours is above the worktop in the utility room which makes a great deal more sense than just in the middle of an otherwise bare wall. Chances are you will want to run some cables down from a CU and do you really trust the plumber to know about safe zones when drilling the brackets for the ratiator?

Are you just talking of the banister system for a wooden staircase? Have you looked at the Burdidge Fusion System? Chrome spindles, chunky chrome brackets and wooden handrails, they also do glass panels. https://www.stairpartshop.co.uk/acatalog/fusion_system.html These are ours (stairs from stairbox)

Our house is pretty much built to passive standards and has a maximum heat input of just under 2.5kW, most of the time it will be way less than that. Heating is an ASHP and UFH downstairs and upstairs only in bathrooms. The heating is timed to come on at 6AM and off at 9PM and is then under the control of room thermostats. The UFH runs at low temperatures such that you barely notice the floor as being "warm" even id you walk on it with bare feet, instead it is "not cold". So the UFH will not heat the house quickly. But that is an important point. Wth a well insulated air tight house with mvhr it will retain it's heat for a long time and only cool down very slowly. so you only need a low level of heat input and there is no harm in leaving it on all the time. Forget the old fashioned notion of having the heating on in the morning and the evening and letting the house cool down in the middle of the day. It won't.

If you do try the cut and shut idea, at least put a couple of props or legs directly under the joint so the integrity of the joint is not so critical.

I am still not understanding that please try again to explain how he now has less land than before the extension?

But it is still YOUR wall. If you want to extend you can still join to your side of it. If you want to extend 2 storeys you can build on top of it (if the foundations can take it) I still don't see you are in a bad position? But the lesson to anyone reading, as soon as you see your neighbours planning permission, THAT is the time to bring up the PWA with the neighbour. and if they have not engaged with you, bring it up with building control if they start work without agreement from you.

No anyone, but fancy drawing what I am trying to describe with your expert CAD skills?

Okay an off the cuff suggestion: Do the outflow from the turd chopper in say 32mm mdpe, in one long sweep starting upwards up the wall (in the perhaps over generous service void) and then arcing right to avoid the restricted headroom bit? No sharp bends just a gentle sweep all the way? Would it work?

you don't need fast broadband to stream live tv. Ours is 3MBPS on a good day and it seems to work okay, it can start to get a bit blocky if 2 in the house try and stream different things. My grip with iptv is whoever said broadband is "always on" was an eternal optimist, or a liar. It's the occasional stop and start that gets me. Plus it just feels "wrong" trying to use what was designed as a data service, and is already struggling as a replacement for broadcast tv. Our terrestrial tv signal here is pretty poor so we watch most stuff via satellite. You need to look up "freesat" you do NOT need "sky" or any other pay service unless you actually want pay tv. You will need the larger "zone 2" dishes up here in Scotland.

Take a quick walk around and see what nearby houses have. Aerials on tall poles on the chimneys mean you have a poor signal and will need something similar. Lots of little aerials on the eaves and you have a reasonable signal and you "hidden" type aerial may work. No aerials on any house and you have a really good signal and they are all in lofts.

What is the constraint? Under a stairwell or something? re locate the WC to a place you can do all the UP from? EDIT: just seen the drawing. Move the WC to the right so it is under the full headroom bit?

I am still failing to understand why you cannot do the 3M up straight from the macerator and then the 3m horizontal laid to a fall into the stack? you seem to have hit a block because ou want to do the horizontal bit first?

How does it sit on the plot? i.e. which way is north or south? No immediate comments other than check carefully how the fixed stairs to the loft sit with building regs. A more conventional loft hatch and change it after completion might be a better idea?

Am I right in saying at the moment that "flex" * exiting the CCU goes straight to the cooker? If so what was probably mentioned was a "Cooker Connection Unit" One of these https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-logic-plus-45a-unswitched-cooker-outlet-plate-white/16686 It's a means to terminate the cooker flex making it easy to replace if you need to. More important for when the wiring out of the switch is buried in the wall. Arguably not essential when the cable out of the switch is on the surface so easy to replace.

That's a very old type in your picture. Apart from it being old, what is the actual question?

A Cooker control Unit is in it's simplest form just a 45A double pole switch. or ic can be combined with a 13A single socket as well. Are you saying you don't have one and the only way to turn the cooker off is the MCB in the consumer unit?