ProDave

But even those you can get wrong if you use the standard fittings that mount on a plate inside the wall. Better to use the fittings that go on over the pipe from the outside and then you cut the pipe to length.

I like Howdens, because they have a branch close to me and if there is anything wrong that needs changing even if not in stock they can usually get it quickly. Contrast that with the last kitchen I was involved in (I only did the electrics not the fitting) the customer had ordered it all from a big orange DIY store and it had all been delivered. When the inevitable happened and parts did not fit and the design was wrong, you could not just pop to the local branch and pick them up, everything had to be ordered with a corresponding time lag, resulted in a very unhappy fitter who could not finish the job and had to keep coming back when the parts arrived.

Most twin wall flue manufacturers will specify a "distance to combustible materials" typically 50mm. So your hole through the roof / wall needs to leave that clearance. The supplier we used, flue-pipes-com supply an "insulated sleeve" for that purpose. The sleeve clamps to the pipe and is the required thickness, so the outside of the sleeve can by definition touch combustible materials. It is also reasonable to assume since it was sold for the purpose the sleeve is not combustible so it can be in contact with the outside of the flue pipe. So you cut your hole in the wall or roof to match the diameter of the sleeve and seal the joint between the sleeve and the wall / roof. Use a standard flashing to prevent water ingress. Here is my insulated sleeve being prepared to fit:

If I have to transport them (about once every 2 years to get a pair refilled) I put them in the back of the Landy and ratchet strap the pair together which stops them rolling.

The message from this thread to any casual viewers is to decide exactly an you wall finish BEFORE you mount the shower valves. Then check with a mock up of your actual wall finish that the valve is recessed the correct amount. If tiling don't forget to allow for adhesive thickness.

It would be a lot better if you had UFH upstairs then all the heating requirement would be low temperature water.

The first job of the architect is to design a house that does not need very much energy to heat it. That is the biggest contribution he can make to it being "green" If you are having PV then an ASHP makes a lot of sense. Oil of gas makes sense if it is a very large house or poorly insulated perhaps?

Re the power. A friend near here paid about £10K to have about 100 metres of 11KV undergrounded, and for the new connection to his new house including a pole mounted transformer.

Usual first question, which way is south?

Offer them on Freecycle or if you prefer facebook or gumtree etc. Someone will want them, and if you want them for the first time you will normally have to pay a cylinder hire charge, so somebody somewhere will take them to avoid paying that. I could do with another Calor 47kG but I doubt you are close enough for it to be worthwhile for me to collect.

I favour a FCU actually 2 of them one in each bedroom. The ASHP can do cooling, it would just be some pipework, a motorised valve and an alteration to the controls. If I went individual A2A AC units, it would be an extra unit outside and extra penetrations through the wall. My gripe though has been why are Fan Coil Units so expensive? They are just a heat exchanger and a fan in a pretty wall mounted box. Not far off just the inside unit of an A2A AC unit. So why typically does a FCU cost as much as a complete A2A AC unit?

Probably the same WM800 that I have had for over 30 years, very versatile and robust.

Yes Ali clad, Rationel Aura Plus. What they call Pebble Grey, same colour inside and out. I can look up the RAL number if you need.

We removed the slider to reduce the weight for install, and just the fixed pane and frame was heavy enough. Then lifted the slider back in. It's lift and slide, turning the handle lifts it up onto the rollers and it slides easily but it is a big lump of window. Just shy of 3M wide so the sliding pane is probably about 1.4M wide and 2.1M high triple glazed.

The sun room will have an easily cleaned tiled floor and will be the only room the cat can access without asking. Most nights she sleeps there anyway so has enjoyed free access for her nightly patrols, and most mornings there are signs of successful hunting.

The cat has to stand at the French doors, look cute, without a mouse in it's mouth and request entry to the main house.

A friend of mine had a cat flap tunnel through the wall with a cat flap at each end, which he claimed cut down heat loss a bit. A sort of cat air lock.

Mine fitted today. It took 5 hours and cost me £400 That big slider was a good 4 man lift and we had the help of a friend plus me to give some grunt. More pictures on my blog if you want, direct link. http://ardross.altervista.org/Wilowburn/the-sun-room/

This is not a re run of the passive cat flap thread, The main house is air tight and mvhr ventilated and there was no way I was having a cat flap in that. The sun room is an add on at the back, think of conservatory with a roof, or Orangery. It is not as well sealed and not part of the mvhr system, so it's windows have trickle vents. It is joined to the main house via a pair of Rationel French doors, so exterior doors thought hey will never see any weather. So the sun room being separate can tolerate a dirty great hole in it that would kill any air tightness. I think a good compromise to solve the cat flap conundrum.

In anticipation of finally fitting the windows to our sun room, I fitted a "cat flap tunnel" through the wall. I had ordered the cat flap but it had not arrived. The quoted dimensions were 19.5cm high and 18.5 cm wide. I had assumed * that was the overall size of the unit and the actual flap would be smaller. I made the tunnel 18cm wide, constrained by being in between 2 studs. The flap arrived today. The actual flap is 18.5cm wide so of course won't open into an 18cm wide tunnel. *Assume = An Ass or You and me.

Mine have several grooves nicely shaped on the top for grip and water to run off,. and on the underside have 3 roughly machine not pretty grooves. If the joker that wrote that article is correct then the non slip material on my ramp would end up underneath.

Will need a few alterations such as a frost thermostat as well.

Is this bathrooms / wet rooms? (if so 150 square metres????) If it is NOT bathrooms then the need for a decoupling mat shows you have the wrong floor material. Change the floor material to e.g. plywood.

Re visiting this as I am working on the sun room. The CAT FLAP. The above pictures say there must be 1M horizontally from a cylinder to an air brick, flue terminal or air intake. I assume the same 1M would apply to a cat flap?

My tank heating strategy is really simple. Heat the whole tank to 48 degrees with the ASHP. Then top that up with the bottom immersion heater from solar PV which on a good day will take the tank to over 70 degrees. It's all simple off the shelf stuff nothing too bespoke about it. If the immersion was half way up, there would not be enough capacity to absorb a good days surplus PV generation.