ProDave

That is true to a point, but we lived in a semi detached house for a while, and the layout was such that the entrance doors and stairs were on the party wall. So the living rooms of the properties were separated by more space and more walls, not just either side of a single wall. That's a layout I would look for again if buying another semi detached house. And I hate stairs going up from a living room, the stairs on the party wall had an internal wall between them and the living room.

I am one of many that chose not to fit UFH in the bedrooms. Several years use including a long very cold spell this winter has proved that bedroom heating is not required in a well insulated sealed house, even here in the Highlands. I installed cables to each bedroom for an electric panel heater. Even those have never been used and no panel heaters have been used, not even portable plug in ones.

Would do differently: If installing an external door on an exposed elevation, facing the prevailing wind, in a windy location, make it an OUTWARD opening door. I don't think man has yet made an inward opening door that will hold back the lashing rain when it's blowing a hoolie in the Highlands straight onto your door. And even if nothing immediately gets in, there WILL be a little ridge of water, sitting between the door and frame, held back by the door seal, just waiting to come into the room when you open the door. Probably best not to have a door on that elevation at all.

It was inspired by a free standing unit SWMBO saw, but of course it was the wrong size and very expensive, so I built that unit to look like it was free standing (it is very much fixed) and give the open shelf look that was wanted.

Telford Heat Pump cylinder here with single immersion heater near the bottom of the tank. Even in summer ASHP heats the tank to 48 degrees, surplus solar PV takes it hotter.

If you want to send shivers down the spine of a plasterer, let him know where the wall lights are going.........

Some aspects of plumbing annoy me. In our en-suite I brought the h&c water pipes out as high as I could expecting them to be out of view. But the tap comes with flexi tails and they can only bend so tight before they kink, and with them bent as tight as they possibly can, you can just see them sticking out underneath. Why can't someone come up with a better system? 20 years ago when I bought a basin with a monoblock mixer tap it cam with solid tails that I could cut to length and I could have fitted an elbow to each to keep the pipework tight to the underside of the unit. It is a long time since I have seen a monoblock tap with rigid tails. It seems "flexi is king" at the moment.

Why did he contact the oil supplier when the oil boiler backed up? A heating engineer experienced in oil boilers would be my choice. Almost certainly the boiler can be repaired for a lot less than changing anything.

Is this application next door full or outline? If full it should show the window positions so if any overlook your house site then you can object on the privacy issue, though as above it might be best just to speak to him and get him to amend the plans.

I ran mine down right next to the window, but my mantra was to get the absolute shortest run of pipe possible for the hot tap, so let that guide you which side etc.

It showed the "contours" of the brickwork.

This tile / basin placement highlights the difficulties of getting different trades to work together. To get that "right" you would have needed the tiler to plan it in detail and mark out exactly where the tile joints are going to be. that would have to happen before the plasterboard when on, so the plumber could then centre all the pipework with respect to the tiles. then the plasterboard could go on and the tiling commence. And if the tiler then changes his plan.......... These things are a lot easier to get right if you DIY it and the tiler and plumber are the same person, and you don't mind it all taking longer.

Well you should certainly make a representation to the planners that you intend to reinstate the planning on your plot and that this application in progress should be determined on the basis that there will eventually be a house on your plot and take that into consideration.

6mm ply WILL bend, it is not a structural floor. You would need at least 18mm to be self supporting between the battens. Often the screed between battens is a weak dry mix laid as a heat spreader and not expected to take any load. What is under the screed? That might only be thin ply or OSB not expecting it to take any load. A similar floor make up here but we used 20mm engineered oak floor planks that are self supporting and place no load on the screed. EDIT: If you are planning carpets then put chipboard flooring down, 18mm if the joist spacing is 400mm or if joists spaced 600mm then you will need 22mm.

Yes, you try slotting sheets under the joists, then crawling on your back in a very confined space to screw them upwards into the bottom of the joists with those big plastic caps. Then doing same to tape the joints. A miserable job with lots of scope to get it wrong. I want to see how you fix the very last one....... A LOT easier to just use thicker joists and full fill the gaps.

Tap tails should have been higher to be less visible? It does look a bit low, has it got a dual function?

Interesting. It is still very quiet up here.

But if, as you have declared, there will be no solids entering this pan........

Pic 1 is extract. Pic 2 is supply

hi and welcome That looks like like a nice re development prospect. Look forward to seeing it progress.

I think the plan is to take the sliding door out so we only have to lift one lump of glass at a time.

I doubt I would do anything personally unless you have a particular area where it feels cold or is causing a condensation or mould issue. A "B" is pretty good for a mass built house and way better than most so I would be content with that.

Arrived bang on scheduled day, no delays due to the B word, unloaded by Hiab as agreed with no problems. They are going in here, the final part of the house to get completed It will be so good after months of doing not very much to get the last phase of the build under way.

Fitting PIR under the joists is a tricky job to detail well. Why not just go up to full fill 200mm joists?

Yes go with oil. Much cheaper than bottled LPG and you will have enough heat. And do the best you can with insulation and upgrades but it is always going to be an expensive house to heat. P.S which village? looks familliar to me.