ProDave

But the controls don't need to be so complicated. Simple changeover relay that is energised by a tank thermostat to swap the PV diverter output to something else (the storage heater) if the tank reaches maximum temperature. But I wager there will be very few times this happens except in summer when you won't want it.

No, been round all the settinga again and again and followed every guide I can find. It really looks like wifi calling is not enabled on the sim, except it works in wifes phone.

The point is, Sky say it is offered and say it is enabled on my sim, but of all the phones I have yet been able to try it in, only one works. I have taken the easy option and ordered a replacement sim. If that does not work I will have to phone them again.

It seems a little over complicated. In winter you won't get more PV than the cylinder will store, and in summer when you might, the last thing you want to be doing is heating a storage heater.

The problem I am having is really a symptom of another problem. We have always only had a weak mobile signal from O2 or Vodaphone. So for years we have used O2. No other provider has covered out house. It is was a usable signal throughout most of the house. It all started to go wrong last year. Twice the one mast serving our house went off, I reported the fault, and it was back in a week and everything worked. It went off again on 9th December. According to O2 is is now back on, but i get absolutely no signal at home, even if I go outside and walk up and down the road. I reported the fault again only to get another email 10 minutes later to say the fault is fixed. My concern is we only ever got 2G indoors and 3G outdoors. Most of the providers are planning to shut down their 2G and 3G services, though O2 have saif they will be the last to shut down 2G. So my fear is that's it, they have gone and shut down the 2G service from this mast and not boosted or improved the 4G signal from it. Of course you can't get to talk to anyone that actually knows what is going on to give you a proper technical description of what they have or have not done. So the quest to get wifi calling has gone from something that has just niggled me that is does not work, to much more important. With me retiring this year, I care less about customers not being able to contact me (though I expect there are some already that can't get hold of me) the landline (in itself a VOIP service) will do for calls and Whatsapp works for those that use it. BUT when you log into a lot of services they insist on sending an SMS verification code. That does not work now unless I take at least a mile walk over the brow of the hill (by which time the code has time expired) or drive up the road to get it. Pure nonsense. So I need to get wifi calling working in the easiest / cheapest way.

Here is what a hip iron looks like And this is where it goes, you attach it to the roof structure before the last two hip tiles go on. The bit that sticks up stops the hip tiles sliding down. Tell your roofer to trundle down to toolstation and buy them, https://www.toolstation.com/scroll-hip-iron/p33398 Read the Ladybird book of how to tile a hip, then come back and do the job properly.

Does anyone understand it, and why it has to be so complicated and difficult. My phone is an old Samsung A3. It used to belong to SWMBO but she bought a new one as she needed more memory. I currently have it on a Sky Mobile contract, which uses the O2 network. It won't do wifi calling. It should do, the option to turn wifi calling on is simply missing from the menu where everything tells me it should be. And searching says if the wifi calling option is not there it is because your provider does not support it. Sky mobile say they do and it is enabled. I have recently got another phone, a OnePlus 3. No idea who makes them. So I tried my SIM in that. Still no wifi calling option. I found some complicated instructions on a web search to turn on wifi calling, even of your provider does not support it. That gets me a little further, it now says "no mobile network found, connect to a wireless network to make a call" I assume when it says "wireless network" it means wifi? Well I AM connected to the home wifi. So another attempt failed. I then tried SWMBO's sim in my phone, wifi calling works on her phone, but her sim does not enable the wifi calling on my phone. While the cards were out, I tried my sim on her phone and blow my socks off, wifi calling works, so the sim does support it? I then found an old out of service plusnet sim, and tried that in my phone, and up pops the missing wifi calling option, even though that sim is long since out of service. So why does it have to be so complicated, wifi calling will only work with a certain combination of phone and SIM and no way pf predicting what will work until you try it, so no I am not going to go and buy another phone only to find I am out of luck again. Sky mobile are next to useless, all they can say is wifi calling is enables which must be true as it works is SWMBO's phone. So where do I go from here to get something you would have thought was simple, to actually work?

We need a picture of the very left hand end of that slipped tile to see what is there. e.g. is there a hip iron?

Just what 25Kg load do you want to hang from a ceiling? I would want at least 2 fixings into a joist. e.g. when designing the kitchen and knowing we would have an island cooker hood, the noggins and supports for it were built in before the plasterboard went on.

On off times remain on GMT, so they DON'T got forward an hour in summer.

You were lucky the ceiling stayed up.

Exactly. One of the things that makes me angry about the green loby is they address us like we are naughty school children and we are still burning fossil fuel because we want to and are ignorant. If they would just give a little credit for the improvements already made, and say well done, keep it up, we are getting there, I am sure people would be more motivated.

Ah that's okay then no carbon up here So it's okay to plug your EV in here to charge it. Oh except that will mean a little less green energy sent over the border and a little more FF burned down south.

I don't believe it would have been that much had we retained our own industry and built our own as we used to do. Now we have to buy in off the shelf designs and pay the foreign designers their dues.

Okay you will be using less fossil fuel if the fossil fuel burned to charge your car emits less CO2 than an equivalent ICE car does. But it seems an awful lot of people seem to think they plug there car in and it charges from a wind turbine and emits nothing. That is simply not true. Even people who charge from their own solar PV are "burning" fossil fuel. If they were not self using their PV it would be exported, thus reducing someone elses use of fossil fuel. It's like the people who sign up to a "green" electricity provider and smugly tell you they are not burning any fossil fuel.

The immediate issues from that chart, are with 9GW of solar (which is a daytime source) there needs to be about 4.5Gw of storage just to even that out and be some use at night. And only 9GW of nuclear, what a sorry state we they have let that industry get into It still proves my point, not much point just now buying an EV believing you are cutting use of fossil fuel. That will come later, but not yet. And Tidal could so easily be a very large number.

I have 3 bedrooms in out 150 square metre house. That is comfortable with decent sized rooms. 4 bedrooms in 130 square metres is probably not what most self builders really want.

So even on a low demand period, 9% is being generated by gas. Have we EVER yet reached 0% gas or coal? At the moment no fossil fuel is the aim, but we are not there yet, and the closer you get the harder it gets. This is why I say if you buy an EV and plug it in, then you WILL increase the amount of gas being burned. That is FACT. One day we might get there, but it will take a lot of energy storage to make that possible, and then I bet there will still need to be some fossil fuel backup. The first milestone we have to reach, is 100% non fossil generation some of the time. I don't think we are there yet.

The points you raise about developer houses being "wrong" for a number of reasons, is why most of us here have self built our own.

Pool ASHP's are not a good choice for UFH. I think few have inverter drive (they are built to heat what is in affect a very big buffer tank) and many won't work at Scottish winter temperatures.

Has it been balanced with an anemometer?

You have the manifold already? I would not go to an UFH supplier, I would just buy another roll of pipe once you have worked out the lengths needed and just lay it.

Don't get fixated on being plumb. As already stated it is vital the roll is dead horizontal, and it is vital the guides remain a constant distance apart and 90 degrees to the roll, so nice and plumb in that plane, but the plane you are looking at with your level does not really matter.

First thing, when you go to bed, make sure the output control is set to it's lowest setting, fully anti clockwise. Then only turn the output control up later in the day when you sense they are starting to cool down. If the heat output is constant across the whole with of the output grill then it is likely all elements are okay. If it is cooler in the middle or at one end, one of the elements may have failed. They are easy to replace but you need to let the core cool down before you can dismantle it and take the front row of bricks out to get at the elements. I have had SH's in 2 previous houses, both poorly insulated and they were pretty rubbish because a poorly insulated house needs heat all the time you are using it, and if it runs out of heat the rooms quickly go cold. If the house has enough insulation to stay work for a few hours when the heat runs out they would probably work a lot better. All the sides of the heater are insulated. Most of the heat output is by convection by allowing cold air into the bottom into the hollow middle of the core (where the elements are) and out of the top of the core exiting through the grill. The output control opens a flap to allow easier convection as the core cools down. Some have a crude thermostat in the form of a bi metalic strip that is supposed to automatically open the output flat as the core cools down. One side effect of most of the heat exiting at the top of the heater, is my 1930's house with no floor insulation always had a pool of cold air at floor level that the SH just could not warm up.

I think the lesson is don't give 50% deposits to traders you hardly know let alone trust. By FAR the best way to choose a tradesman is by personal recommendation by someone they have previously done work for. I know about 4 local joiners, but only one was good enough to be allowed to to my Oak kitchen worktop and hang a load of Oak doors for me.