ProDave

Don't assume the one in COM is L feed. There is an equal argument for putting L feed into L1 for 1 way switching. The switch probably works by harvesting a tiny amount of power through the L-Sw connection and a tiny current passing through the "off" light. In which case it probably does not know and will probably work either way. But really, it makes me shudder anyone doing ANYTHING on electrics without something to test for live, or more important test for dead. I am old school (and some will flame me) but I have a motto "Never touch anything that my neon screwdriver has not touched first. If you really must use a volt stick instead, then make SURE every use you test your volt stick on a known live wire. The other mantra is "test your tester, test for dead, test your tester again.

Your new switch L is L in, and squigle is switched L out. P is for interconnecting multiple pushbuttons, I suspect you are not using that function so ignore it. Your challenge now is which of your 2 brown wires is the L in and which is the L out. You will need some kind of tester to determine that, multimeter or some form of voltage tester.

What do you mean your switch has "2 lives" is it part of 2 way switching? L loop through? Post a picture of your existing switch as wired. That smart switch does not need a N just L in and switched L out.

We have 300L and find that okay for familly of 3. I would not go smaller. Heat up time is slower for us with only a 5kW ASHP My observations is it is the ladies, especially if they have long hair, that spend a lot of time in a shower. It sounds like you only have one lady in your household so long showers may not be an issue.

I dislike fan heaters because of the noise and unreliability and potentially dangerous. I have seen the melted mess of plastic resulting from a fan heater fan failing and then the thermal oveload trip failing to trip. DO NOT EVER leave a fan heater unattended is my advice. That cheap convector heater linked a few posts above is probably best value for money, and similar things are available under loads of different makes. They are essentially free standing but usually come with brackets for wall mounting. The problem with most "wall mounting" panel heaters is LOT20. That's an EU directive to make things more efficient that imposes some electronic controls to control temperature, detect an "open window" etc. The result is a little control panel that almost every customer I have met just cannot understand and they hate the things. Quite why we are seemingly only selling LOT20 panel heaters in the UK after Brexit beats me. The ability to avoid all that nonsense should be a benefit but we are not taking the opportunity.

When I fixed my balcony to the wall, I had the same issue, soft EWI that i did not want to compress. So the outer hole through the EWI was larger, then a spacer inserted so the fixing clamped up against (in my case) the timber behind the EWI. Like this Final assembly, lots of sealant goo around the spacer as it was inserted, And a large penny washer over the end of the spacer tube.

On the basis that we have nice clean mains water, we didn't bother with the filter, and the hastle of keep changing it.

It would not be my style. Why do you need 2 taps on one sink? Yes I know his and hers, but sharing the same sink? Really?

Why do you think they won't drain or will stain? Do you have pictures of them assembled out of the packaging?

A LOT of the modern "LED Battens" are rubbish design, and as already mentioned awkward cable termination at one end. That's why if your existing fitting is in good condition and not too tired, fitting an LED tube can be a good option. Try hanging most of the current LED offerings on 2 lengths of jack chain for instance. You can't.

New by who? Big developer or individual builder? Has it actually been designed from the outset to have rooms in the loft? If so you might be lucky and find it is built with attic trusses. That is quite common up here to build bungalows with attic trusses to make loft conversion much easier. What other drawings are on the council website? Can you access building regs drawings that might show a lot more detail?

If you get the LED tube, if just plugs in in place of the old tube and the replacement starter in place of the old starter. No need to change the wiring. The ballast is redundant so if that is suspect you could bypass it.

Replace it for an LED tube, which comes with it's own starter. You will never go back. Flicker free instant starting and far more reliable.

You would need a more detailed plan that that. And some actual measurements of the dimensions inside the existing loft. The critical think is the staircase. A staircase, and the "landing" must have a headroom of 2 metres. Oddly enough building regs don't stipulate a headroom limit for a bedroom. So think where you could put a staircase that is both practical and meets that headroom requirement. The actual available height will probably be less than you measure in a bare loft, as you will likely need to increase the floor joists size, and insulation will reduce some of the ceiling height.

It could be it has been leaking for 40 years but the under felt has kept the water from doing any damage, but the under felt is now rotten.

So the length of non armoured cable from the termination point to the remote CU will have to be located where RCD protection not needed, i.e. not buried in a wall.

To me, it looks like the lead on the left hand side goes on TOP of the tile? The lead should be underneath, properly dressed and the tile on top of the lead. Looks like the right side may be the same. You need a roofer up there to take those 2 tiles off and put them back with the lead underneath and tiles on top of the lead.

Are you talking of doing this at the source end, or the destination end? It is not clear. If at the source end then where you gland the SWA you would also have to run an appropriate size earth cable along with the inner cores to the consumer unit so the SWA is bonded at the source end. Remember no armour on that internal section would mean the cable routing method would have to be appropriate for whether there is RCD protection or not. which would probably preclude it being buried in a wall. It is common to feed an SWA without RCD protection and provide that at the destination end.

There should be no "after the soakaway" (except in special cases of a partial soakaway) The idea is the soakaway is made big enough that it can absorb all the water you are likely to feed into it. If it fails to do that then it needs to be bigger. I am not familliar with the English regs but in Scotland a soakaway can't be within 5 metres of a boundary, so with your 15M wide field that would limit you to a 10M wide soakaway, made as long as required to give the calculated area.

The real simple basics are drainage from the house leads to the treatment plant. Topography will dictate where best to sit it so drains can all run downhill to the TP and end up with it at a sensible depth. Outflow from the TP will have to flow somewhere, if land drainage it will be a buried soakaway of perforated pipe on stone, the size of which is determined by a percolation test and a standard formula based on the number of occupants and the percolation rate. Building regs set the minimum distances from buildings, boundaries, roads and watercourses to the TP and soakaway. they are different in different countries, i.e. Scotland different to England. I don't think anywhere allows you do drain "on" to your field. If the soakaway is on land higher than the TP then a pumped outflow will be needed, some models of TP are available with a pumping system build in.

Not here it's not, it's local council. PO won't take instruction on a new address from Jo Public. Which is why our new house is now on every address database except the PO.

I am confused. You are buying 3.5 acres, but there is not enough land in the "curtilige" to park a static caravan. So if the curtilige only covers a tiny area, what is the current planning use of the rest of the 3.5 acres?

Care to post an example? Can you get it in sensible size quantities. I ask because we have a spirit burning stove on our boat and we currently burn meths which stinks. I would like to find an alternative fuel for it that has no smell, and is available in larger bottles than the usual silly little 500ml meths bottles. And preferably cheaper than that (hence wanting to buy in larger quantity)

I use -10 because that is quite a realistic winter temperature here. What figures are you getting at 0, -2, and -10?

Excellent Hope completion goes okay. Is that A103 with solar PV to get you a few points? very good indeed.