ProDave

Some types of timber cladding can be really poor, there is a self build with timber cladding near me that in the winter the cladding just soaks in the rainwater, and ends up looking like a cheap soaked garden shed. I have never been a fan of cladding "left to silver" as it rarely fades evenly and often looks tatty and worn after a very short time.

It looks like they have already widened the "road" in an attempt to prevent this?

Post some pics of the controls. If a proper start / stop, check the start button is pusming the contactor in all the way

A couple of plants in large tubs, one either side of the bay might make it easier too see / avoid hitting the bay window. Post a picture of the water coming out of the vent, that might be more serious.

Adaptable box will be fine above the CU. Link the two with a bit of rigid conduit. Second pic, red and black are the L and N feed to the old Radio Teleswitch. Are you still actually using the off peak any more? I don't think those Teleswitches will be working much longer.

What are you actually asking? Pic 1 is a waterlogged lawn, presumably in winter. Pic 2 seems to be the same lawn in summer with most of the grass dead? Pic 3 is a drain pipe entering an inspection chamber. Did you think there was something wrong with that?

Should be 2 layers of 15mm pink fireline board with staggered joints. Mounted on resiliant bars for reduced noise. Was there any insulation in there that came down with the ceiling that might not have been replaced?

Hi and welcome to the forum. Does that come with much land? Is it remote from other dwellings and do you have electricity? What's with the render behind the water butt? Looks like a project with plenty of potential.

Seriously, with a full renovation, I would be planning ahead for WHEN you won't be able to get a gas boiler. Yes you can get one now, but how long will it last? and what will you replace it with. At that point starting with a broken, irreplaceable gas combi will be a bad starting point. So I like the suggestion of a good modulating system boiler, with proper thought out controls (priority DHW) and a "heat pump" unvented hot water cylinder. Then next time, you (or a future owner) can swap the gas boiler for an ASHP. I have never owned a house with a combi but used plenty when staying with relatives and I just don't like them. Every one I have used you turn the hot tap down to get a nice gentle flow to wash your hands and the water jumps up to scalding hot. Taking a shower and someone else flushes the loo and your shower temperature changes. Once you have tried hot water from a well designed Unvented cylinder system, you will not want to go back. As long as you have good mains pressure water to support it.

I would say BEFORE you tighten the glass fixing nuts, you first ensure all 4 are at the same level, so when you tighten the glass you are not bending it. If the 4 fixings are not level, then correct that first.

My PV diverter measures generated and consumed power to that could "signal" the ASHP to start up if there was enough surplus, but that would then have to be integrated into the regular controls to override "DHW demand" regardless of what the time clock says. Yes an ASHP takes a few minutes to ramp up, and they don't like starting and stopping so you really would not want to keep interrupting it every time a cloud came over. I guess this is what battery storage does. I don't have that on my present system, but later i hope to add more PV and battery storage. Batteries should be ideally placed to soak up even short bursts of PV generation and then discharge the batteries later into a constant load device like the ASHP.

There is no easy way to command the ASHP to start up heating DHW when there is surplus PV, and in any case on a partly cloudy day PV production can go up and down in quantity very rapidly as clouds come and go. Yes the immersion is a COP of 1, but the energy it is using if "free" and not using it, it gets exported and wasted (at best paid at a low export rate if you are able) so better to use it than lose it. The PV diverter responds very quickly to peaks and troughs in the PV generation

My "simple" way to achieve that is set the timer so the ASHP only starts to heat the DHW at 11AM, by which time there should be decent solar PV to be used up by the ASHP. The PV diverter works automatically on it's own at any time, so on a sunny day the ASHP will be soaking up the PV and the diverter will be putting some into the immersion heater as well. ASHP heats DHW to 48 degrees then stops. Immersion heater thermostat is at maximum which seems to cut out just over 70 degrees. 5kW ASHP seems okay with low heating load and I would not want to go smaller for DHW heat up time.

So much has been done already. the job is actually quite simple. Have you actually costed forgetting the silly grants that force the use of MCS contractors. and just buy the kit and employ a trusted plumber and electrician, or just do it yourself?

A lot of solar PV. In simple terms it generates more power than it consumes.

I don't like the earth wire under a fixing screw, should have used the Banjo's and nut and bolted the earth through those.

Dirty water submirsible pump. If there are ANY stones, get one with a stainless steel impellor, not plastic/

Mount a steel adaptable box immediately under the CU. Gland the SWA into that, bring the inner cores into the CU along with the earth tail from the glanded SWA in the metal box.

Which is why in my case they had really wanted their cable under my garden and that is what they offered, I would not have signed.

Devil's advocate here, but it is only the first 2 or at most 3 joists that get intermediate support from that small wall. The rest of that room the joists span all the way with no intermediate support. I am willing to bet you could take that little wall down completely and all would be fine, but best to get a SE just to make sure there is not something silly like a joint in a joist on top of that wall.

I was approached by a wind farm about laying an underground cable across my garden. I played along for a short while more curious to see what level of payment they might offer. But I really sis not want a 33KV underground cable across my garden imposing restrictions on what I could do with that bit of garden unless they offered a high figure. I got as far as letting one of their surveyors measure the garden and they concluded as I had, it was not the easiest or best route. I understand that cable is now going under my neighbours garden alongside another one laid 10 or more years ago. From what I gather from him the payment is "not a lot"

Single fixed output temperature, unit only advertised for HW production. It would probably take some bodging to make it work with space heating as well and the fixed output temperature would be too high for UFH. And no mention of soft start or inverter so assume not.

I would run a mile from that one. Very cheap very basic unit likely to disappoint.

New circuit? old circuit? Do "real" high power loads work or do they trip as well?

5ACH is poor. You should be targeting less than 1ACH and MVHR should be considered a must have. If your architect does not understand MVHR you need to find someone that does.