Tom

We used NBM for our conveyancing, they're based in Essex but it is all done online etc. Was competitively priced and all has gone through.

For the same thickness you'll have very different u values for PIR v EPS

Hire something like this? https://www.farolmowers.co.uk/product/billy-goat-qv550h-wheeled-leaf-vacuum/?utm_source=Google Shopping&utm_campaign=Google Shopping 03&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=8509&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs72fg-Wg-QIV0eR3Ch2bxgDEEAQYBCABEgIOfPD_BwE

Call me mental, but if the outlet is only a few mm higher could you try putting a piece of wicking material up and over the outlet? This would help to empty the pooled water quicker than evaporation alone. Probably.

No drawings, but had had a site visit. Even if they felt it wans't their remit then why go ahead and fit the windows when they will clearly leak like a sieve? Gonna have to stop as my BP is rising again....

Perhaps, but incredibly, while we were discussing how to make it right, they showed some pictures of a recent install they did in Nudura where they used all the right tapes/trays etc! So why the 🤬 didn't they do the same for me? 🤯

Still some money owed, but they're a very reputable local-ish firm and are going to make good, so I'm happy in that respect. Just amazed that these things can't be got right in the first instance.

"So you've installed in Nudura before?" says I. Yeah yeah yeah, no probs. So that's one less thing for me to worry about? I can just put that one to bed and leave that in their capable hands? Of course! None of the windows have been installed with the Nudura specified EDPM tray or taped up the sides/top. Simply put in the opening and foamed/silicone in - with daylight visible in some places between frame and reveal.

Having our windows fitted this week. Almost all in, and none have been fitted correctly. All will need to come out again. I give up.

Thanks both. It's a stove at over EUR2k so looking at an additional EUR500. But what the hell, if self-building has taught me anything it's to be prepared to be shafted at any and every opportunity

Apologies if this has been covered before, and I think it has but can't for the life of me find the thread, but if I want to buy something from Spain can I somehow avoid paying the local sales tax then reclaim the VAT I will be charged on import here - or do I have to pay the local sales tax, which I guess I won't be able to claim back? Many thanks!

As far as I understand it if you have gaps it needs to be UV stable, otherwise it will just break down over time. There seem to be different "grades" of UV resistance depending on how wide your gaps are - the wider the gap the more resistant it needs to be and the more expensive. Whether or not it needs be be able to breathe depends on the wall make-up I guess, but I think most (if not all?) UV resistant membranes are breathable

Good spot 👍

Thanks Russel - we're not going for too rustic tbh so perhaps they will fit in, and I would definitely like the option of removing a board later on if needed. Guess I'll go for the 45mm one unless you think a 12mm "bite" from the shorter 32mm screw would be sufficient?

And why would the shorter be more expensive?

Counter batten - membrane - Nudura ICF Ring shank nails are just an arse to get out and tend to take half the plank with them, which is why I was thinking screws TBH.

Right, really stupid question coming up, but for the life of me I just can't make a decision on these. Perhaps it's because everything seems to be going t*ts up with our build and I want to at least get something right! So, we are having wood cladding on part of it - reusing the old boards from the barn. They're approx 150x20mm and will be fixed to standard batten (50x25mm). I want to use screws to fix them on and like the look of these: https://www.toolstation.com/tongue-tite-plus-stainless-steel-tg-screw/p36869 but they are 49mm long, which will mean they will pass through the batten completely - by a good 4mm. You won't see it of course, bit I will know... There is a shorter one at 45mm: https://www.toolstation.com/tongue-tite-torx-screw/p49111 Apart from the length, what is the difference between the two? Other than the shorter one being more expensive? They are both SS but seem to be called different things. At 45mm they will still prbably just poke through too. There is an even shorter one, at 32mm: https://www.toolstation.com/tongue-tite-plus-stainless-steel-tg-screw/p25702 but of course that would only leave about 12mm in the batten. Is that enough? I used to be indecisive, but now I'm not so sure. Can anyone put me out of my misery? I realise there are bigger things to worry about in life, but hey ho... PS The wife keeps telling me she wants a longer screw, but looks a bit blank when I start talking about cladding 🧐

Hard to see how this one would work tbh - if its an all in one unit where's it pumping the heat from/to? Looks like it's just a dehumidifier.

'cos I want a gas hob, no external wall for the kitchen. Can you tell me what needs to be done and why I would expect to pay £900 for the install? If i'm running ducting then it just needs a pipe pulled through and terminated appropriately no?

Does this meet regs? Would solve a part of a headache if so. Roger that. Unfortunately our totally useless (ex) builders have run 110mm soil pipe in to to the building to take the services.

Good point, but we only need it to go a short distance: at the moment we have a run of 110mm soil pipe going from the plant room to under-slab level in the main area, we just need to extend this in ducting to get to the final position where the kitchen is. Yep, totally get you but just want a bottled gas supply for a gas domino hob, rest will be induction etc.

Hello all - I need to run electricity and water pipes under our slab to where the kitchen will be. Our floor make-up is: DPM - 400mm EPS - 200mm concrete and the ducting will go under all of it - so run in the ground. Is this the sort of stuff I should be using? https://www.drainagesuperstore.co.uk/product/underground-twinwall-water-ducting-178mm-x-6m-blue.html. I also need to run some gas piping, so guess would use: https://www.drainagesuperstore.co.uk/product/naylor-underground-twinwall-gas-ducting-6m.html I was originally thinking of using just 110mm soil pipe which I guess would make detailing where it comes through the DPM easier (as it it rigid) but will be a bit more expensive. Either way, can I run water pipes (Hep20) and power cable in the same duct? Thanks!!

Rule 66: Be considerate of the needs of other road users when riding in groups. You can ride two abreast and it can be safer to do so, particularly in larger groups or when accompanying children or less experienced riders. Be aware of drivers behind you, and allow them to overtake (e.g. by moving into single file or stopping) when you feel it is safe to let them do so.

Hi, have you got planning permission yet? If not, just include sentence in the application along the lines of "We also seek permission to site a caravan on the plot for the duration of the build to serve as a temporary reidence for ourselves". Or words to that effect. Otherwise you will have to apply for permission separately. No idea re the mortgage, but I've always found Ecology very approachable so I'm sure they can answer all your questions. Good luck!

Thanks both. Stupid questions: does this get fitted horizontally or vertically? If I'm having vertical timber cladding, guess I will have a vertical batten then a horizontal counter-batten then clat on to that and the membrane go over the top of the vertical batten?