Tom

Yes, you have to buy direct from Armatherm it seems - and there was a minimum order of £100. I bought 2x foot square 20mm thick pieces and some washers which came to £100. Email them with what you need, they came back quickly with a quote IIRC.

As Mr Punter says, you need a thermal break material specifically designed for point loads. We've used Armatherm between a (warm) steel and cold pad - but it isn't cheap.

Have a look here Jamie: https://www.panelsandprofiles.co.uk/ Think we'll probably go with these guys for the folded gutter as well as the profiled panels for roof/cladding.

^^^^this If you haven't already, investigate whether your local planners would allow you to knock down the shed and rebuild from scratch. Some do and some don't it seems. Would make everything cheaper, simpler and possibly better.

Aaaghh! There's a total of about 60 linear meters to do! I'm thinking that where the membrane comes up the end of the composite panel I could just chase it in - a cut along here with a circular saw and tick the membrane in?

The composite panels sit on steel rafters and Z-purlins We're too far down the road with the hidden gutter to turn back now! My drawing does look complicated, but it looks a bit simpler in real life... I can easily lower the front lip of the gutter to encourage any overflow out the front - and likewise the "tail" going up the roof is a good 200mm.

Sorry @DC5, only just saw your reply. The Alutrix looks like it might do the trick, but is considerably more expensive than a simple membrane and tin of contact adhesive and I'm not sure if it would be overkill. The wall/roof junction is a bit of a pain to detail right, not least as we are going to fit a hidden gutter, the build-up goes something like this: 1. Gap between composite roof panels and top of nudura walls filled in with PIR, the membrane in question then bonded over this to make as weather tight as possible. 2. The composite roof panels then have battens fixed to them, the folded gutter profile fixed to the ends of these, a counter batten over the top and then corrugated steel roofing sheet to finish. 3. Finally, batten - which also supports the outer edge of the gutter, counter batten and vertical timber cladding to the wall. Simple, eh? The membrane bonded to the PIR shouldn't be doing much work, the void should be totally covered by the gutter profile and if the gutter blocks and overflows it should go over the front lip and down the wall (I'll be putting another membrane up the vertical batten and under the front lip of the gutter). Any thoughts?

😟 Any ideas? Are any specific adhesives to be avoided with PIR?

Hello all. Woke up in the small hours pondering this, I plan to cap our nudura walls with PIR laid flat and cut at an angle and want to stick a waterproof roofing membrane (eg https://www.toolstation.com/sark-it-non-breathable-membrane/p26933?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dc&pcrid=&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI15f627vO_QIVd4BQBh0j8gwcEAQYASABEgKkJ_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds) on to this - what adhesive would work on both the foil face and the cut edges of the PIR? Would a solvent-based impact adhesive do the trick?

Hi Mike - welcome to the forum. Sounds like whatever you can do to reduce convection currents would help. Perhaps some rockwool pushed in from the top? This would still be vapour permeable which is always a good idea with old houses. Tom

Thanks Dave, looking at those I think they are going to be a bit big, only got 100mm depth to play with and a distance of a few meters to the stack. Would a shower trap not do the same job?

Trouble is I don't think a smallholding is agricultural either. There is a minimum size, and I don't think 2 acres is it.

It doesn't matter what the land is classified as, it's all down to the buildings themselves - and if they are stables that have been used for horses, then as above I'm pretty sure you can't go down the class Q route. I would forget the structural engineer now too - whether or not they are structurally capable of being converted is kinda moot. Get an opinion from a planning consultant - if they believe that they are worth pursuing then you find a "friendly" structural engineer to write a very carefully worded report to go along with the application. When you have the part Q, apply for full planning to knock down and rebuild (planners often take the Class Q as a fallback position so are then inclined to grant full planning - at least in some areas, search your local planning portal).

While I'm STILL waiting for our roof to be finished, I've been busy thinking how I can make our build more complicated and expensive, and have started to think about the plant room and whether it might be an idea to have a drain in the middle of the floor. The room won't just be for the plant but it's also a boot room etc, so it might be useful to have a drain and would also be useful if any pipes in there sprung a leak. There is already a 110mm stack coming up through the floor that I could T in to, and the screed is yet to go down, so have about 100mm height to play with. Should I forget the idea? Are there proprietry "floor drains" for this sort of thing, or could I just use a wet-room shower trap? Thanks all

If they are stables, and have been used as such, then as far as I'm aware they aren't agricultural so aren't eligible for part Q Happy to be proven wrong though, and agree with Temp that getting the opinion of a planning consultant would be the first step. Different planning departments seem to interpret the rules slightly differently so local knowledge would be key.

Are you not thinking of taped foil-backed insulation boards?

Yep, I'm leaning towards an EPDM liner for the folded profiles. Has any one used these before?

Clean them by sticking your hand in them I guess, same with any other gutter. As for overflowing I suppose you just make sure that they don't!

Cheers Mark. Any experience of gutter liners?

Evening all I am trying to find somewhere that will produce a folded gutter profile - essentially a "P" (on it's front) cross section. I have found a place which will produce whatever profile I need - but only in 3m sections. The longest run I need is just over 18m - so that will be at least five joins between sections. The gutter is going to be hidden behind the cladding and will be above the walls, so ideally I want a continuous section that I will be confident won't leak. Does anyone know if anywhere that can do this? There are firms that will prduce seamless gutter on-site from the back of their vans - but this is only in a ogee profile and will be too small. The largest of the gutters will need to be formed from approx 800mm wide sheets. Any ideas? There are liners for gutters too I believe, would this work? Many thanks

Thanks Mark, I was going to set the width of the windows as per the profile of the roofing sheets - i.e a whole number of corrugations, then both sides of the window would coincide with a downward bend of the sheet (if you know what I mean...) - and only make the opening through the roof structure when the sheets were going up. Any other tips?

Hello all - I'm trying to make a decision on skylights for our build and quite like the look of these: https://roof-maker.co.uk/products/luxlite-pitched-rooflights/ It looks like they don't make a specific flashing for a corrugated steel roof but instead make your own with lead etc. Is there any reason you can see that this wouldn't be possible for a roof covered in 13/3 corruaged roof sheets (eg https://www.cladco.co.uk/13-3-corrugated-0-5-thick-polyester-paint-coated-roof-sheet?utm_source=google_shopping&child_id=647#color=48&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiqvqsNjl_AIVBWHmCh2CuwLoEAQYAyABEgL9QPD_BwE) ? The chap on the other end of the line was very non-commital and just said "it'll be up to your builder to detail" - but I don't want to spend thousands on these and then leave my builder scratching his head... Thanks everyone

From my experience locally, it seems like the onus would be on them to prove it wasn't. A statement from the previous owner saying it had been used for agriculture wouldn't hurt I guess. I think the only way to know for sure really would be to start the application process and address any issues as they come out of the woodwork. Just make sure you clear everything out now!

If it was last used to store domestic stuff, then it's last use was not agricultural - so would not qualify. If you took all the stuff out now, would anyone know?

The cable is filled with a liquid if I remember correctly. They have been around for 20+ years I think, originally made by Stanley but then bought out and renamed Ziplevel. They seem to be more popular in the US but since I've been using mine I don't know why they aren't more popular here. It really is extremely quick and easy to use. As for accuracy, rechecked the bumpf and it seems is accurate closer to 0.2mm (picture showed 0.01 inches), still not bad!