Tom

Right, really stupid question coming up, but for the life of me I just can't make a decision on these. Perhaps it's because everything seems to be going t*ts up with our build and I want to at least get something right! So, we are having wood cladding on part of it - reusing the old boards from the barn. They're approx 150x20mm and will be fixed to standard batten (50x25mm). I want to use screws to fix them on and like the look of these: https://www.toolstation.com/tongue-tite-plus-stainless-steel-tg-screw/p36869 but they are 49mm long, which will mean they will pass through the batten completely - by a good 4mm. You won't see it of course, bit I will know... There is a shorter one at 45mm: https://www.toolstation.com/tongue-tite-torx-screw/p49111 Apart from the length, what is the difference between the two? Other than the shorter one being more expensive? They are both SS but seem to be called different things. At 45mm they will still prbably just poke through too. There is an even shorter one, at 32mm: https://www.toolstation.com/tongue-tite-plus-stainless-steel-tg-screw/p25702 but of course that would only leave about 12mm in the batten. Is that enough? I used to be indecisive, but now I'm not so sure. Can anyone put me out of my misery? I realise there are bigger things to worry about in life, but hey ho... PS The wife keeps telling me she wants a longer screw, but looks a bit blank when I start talking about cladding 🧐

Hard to see how this one would work tbh - if its an all in one unit where's it pumping the heat from/to? Looks like it's just a dehumidifier.

'cos I want a gas hob, no external wall for the kitchen. Can you tell me what needs to be done and why I would expect to pay £900 for the install? If i'm running ducting then it just needs a pipe pulled through and terminated appropriately no?

Does this meet regs? Would solve a part of a headache if so. Roger that. Unfortunately our totally useless (ex) builders have run 110mm soil pipe in to to the building to take the services.

Good point, but we only need it to go a short distance: at the moment we have a run of 110mm soil pipe going from the plant room to under-slab level in the main area, we just need to extend this in ducting to get to the final position where the kitchen is. Yep, totally get you but just want a bottled gas supply for a gas domino hob, rest will be induction etc.

Hello all - I need to run electricity and water pipes under our slab to where the kitchen will be. Our floor make-up is: DPM - 400mm EPS - 200mm concrete and the ducting will go under all of it - so run in the ground. Is this the sort of stuff I should be using? https://www.drainagesuperstore.co.uk/product/underground-twinwall-water-ducting-178mm-x-6m-blue.html. I also need to run some gas piping, so guess would use: https://www.drainagesuperstore.co.uk/product/naylor-underground-twinwall-gas-ducting-6m.html I was originally thinking of using just 110mm soil pipe which I guess would make detailing where it comes through the DPM easier (as it it rigid) but will be a bit more expensive. Either way, can I run water pipes (Hep20) and power cable in the same duct? Thanks!!

Rule 66: Be considerate of the needs of other road users when riding in groups. You can ride two abreast and it can be safer to do so, particularly in larger groups or when accompanying children or less experienced riders. Be aware of drivers behind you, and allow them to overtake (e.g. by moving into single file or stopping) when you feel it is safe to let them do so.

Hi, have you got planning permission yet? If not, just include sentence in the application along the lines of "We also seek permission to site a caravan on the plot for the duration of the build to serve as a temporary reidence for ourselves". Or words to that effect. Otherwise you will have to apply for permission separately. No idea re the mortgage, but I've always found Ecology very approachable so I'm sure they can answer all your questions. Good luck!

Thanks both. Stupid questions: does this get fitted horizontally or vertically? If I'm having vertical timber cladding, guess I will have a vertical batten then a horizontal counter-batten then clat on to that and the membrane go over the top of the vertical batten?

Can anyone recommend a black vapour-permeable membrane to cover ICF walls? Black cladding will have gaps so the membrane will be just about visible through, so need it black and preferably without any printing. Thanks all

No I didn't tbh, but have done the studwork now No reason tbh, other than being a better insulator.

Hi all - I need to construct a timber studwork gable end that continues on from a Nudura ICF wall over one of our cantilever steels. See pic. The concrete core of the ICF is approx 145mm so I've used the same width timber and plan to put some ply on the outside surface for rigidity, then 90mm PIR screwed on to this to make up the wall thickness to match the ICF. The interior surface would be covered in similar insulation with rockwool between the studs, see diagram in second post. I was going to put a breather membrane over the outside and vapour barrier on the inside. Does this sound right?

or a length of this stuff: https://www.armatherm.co.uk/products/frr-structural-thermal-break-material/

I guess still shows up the sh*t though? 😃

Helpful observations, thanks. The instructional video for the Ziplevel shows the cord being driven overv and all good, but I guess best avoided. Re calibrating - can be done quickly and easily with the provided extendable pole as I see it, so no great shakes, but, yes, something to be aware of in changable weather etc

"ZipLevel works by sensing minute pressure differences within a pressurized gas/liquid system." - doesn't look like it's new technology, used to be called the Stanley Compulevel apparently. The thing needs re-charging every 3 years or so, but I guess even laser levels need recalibrating.

I recently bought a (second hand) high precision altimeter https://www.groundscare-products.co.uk/ziplevel.htm#buyonline Highly accurate and simple, quick and easy to use - or so it seems. Haven't actually used it yet...

Given that materials are probably no more than 6 or 7k then he's charging at least £10k for a weeks work - I'm in the wrong job!

Aaah, brilliant, many thanks 👍. So it seems I can use the original title plan and annotate, as long as: 9.6 Plans based on an official copy of the title plan Whether in paper form, or electronic format, plans based on an official copy of the title plan will not normally be rejected providing: there are no manual alterations to the official copy that result in the extent being in doubt an electronic official copy has not been so distorted by the electronic transmission process, printing and any subsequent copying, that the extent is in doubt

Hello all - I need to produce a plan for submission to the Land Registry to show the access track to my site. This needs to be "Land Registry compliant" according to my conveyancer, but he doesn't give any more details. What does this mean? I have the unamended plan from the Registry, can I simply draw the track on this? Or do I need to employ a surveyor to do something similar and charge me handsomely for the pleasure? Many thanks

So I guess I would qualify as the property will be "self-built" in that I'm project managing. Does getting an ASHP now so as to get the grant make sense? Compared to a willis based system which I would have to pay 100% for. I guess it comes down to what the plumber would charge for installing the two systems.

The other complication is grants for ASHPs. Is there still money for ASHPs in a new build? I thouight not, but I spoke to a plumber earlier this week and he seemed to think there still was.

Thanks Iceverge. The slab is 200mm with 400mm EPS beneath, so should do the job nicely. I guess I can get away without a buffer tank as well, as short-cycling wouldn't be a problem with a willis - or, thinking about it, might make sense to have one to store any excess and smoothe out the ripples with intermittent PV generation when cloudy etc.

I've always thought I'd be getting an ASHP for our build and I have been dithering on pulling the trigger on one of the Cool Energy packages - unfortunately it looks like I've dithered too long as it seems their prices have just gone up by over £1k. This has made me think a bit more on whether we actually need one - and reading other's experiences on here with using a willis heater for their UFH makes me think this might be a reasonable alternative. I'm trying to work out a comparative cost for this but am struggling a bit, can anyone advise? So, putting all my vital statistics in to JH's spreadsheet I get the following: total daily heat loss power for January OAT: 5677W and for the minimum January OAT 6826W - energy input at 4224kWh and 5079kWh respectively. We also will be having a wood buring stove so this could be fired up on the really cold days. Hot water usage would be on the lower end of the scale. It's a 4 bed house but we take mostly showers. The slightly complicating factor which is making me scratch my head is that we will be putting back the 12kW PV array that was on the barns before we knocked them down. They're on a SE/SW orientation split approx 50/50. With a willis heater we could therefore potentially utilise more of our own generation for the UFH than we could if we had an ASHP - but exactly how much the array could produce in deepest winter is probably quite low, and could probably just as easily all be dumped in to the UVC without "losing" any to export. But this is all me guessing, can anyone help with anything a bit more rooted in reasonable estimates? If it seems reasonable, I'm guessing I could plumb everything in but with a willis heater in place of an ASHP, adding one at a later date if it didn't work out. Any views greatly appreciated. Tom