Tom

Sorry, I don't follow you, the info in the link says you can turn the ufh on after a week, which is what I was told. Am I missing something?

its an anhydrite screed which it seems you can put heat through after a week or so

We're using one company to pour, float and polish our slab. They are very good and would be happy to pass on their details if you wanted.

Actually, just remembered, the screed guy says we need to start getting some heat through the screed in about a week, and suggested hooking up an old immersion somehow. What is the best way to do this? Cheep second-hand immersion/tank, or a willis heater perhaps??

Thanks all, feel reassured. Just a slight mid-afternoon panic. The UFH pipes I'd laid everywhere were finally hooked up to the emanifold today, and one was a few feet too short, FML, so it rides over several to cut a corner. Luckily the liquid screed is so sodding deep, and expensive, FML, that it will all be covered.

Just spoke to the chap doing the screed tomorrow and he said not to worry about it, he has done hundreds of floors with pipes crossing under expansion joints etc and never had a problem. Perhaps I'm just over thinking this. Wouldn't be the first time.

Hmm, I can spray a little expanding foam around the pipes at the concrete/screed interface, but I guess I would still have differential movement of the two pulling/pushing the pipes around?

Hi All, hoping someone can reassure me that this is alright. We have UFH pipes exiting our polished concrete slab below floor level and going in to an area that is going to be (liquid) screeded tomorrow. I'm concerned that at the vertical join where the slab and screed meet there will be movement as the two material expand/contract and that this will put the pipes here under repeated stress. Should I be worried? I'm guessing there should be an expansion gap here - but would this make the differential movement of the slab/screed even worse and put the pipes under even more stress? Thanks all

Yep. Moisture resistant. Should have gone for Aquapanel in retrospect

Hi all, looking some advice on the question of vapour barriers. Out roof make up (from outside to in) is 150mm composite panel (essentially PIR sandwiched between sheet metal) 200mm rockwool plasterboard I had planned to tape the internal seams between the composite sheets for airtightness. Do I also need a vapour barrier? Many thanks Tom

That's a great looking house (the bits they show anyway. Especially the walk-on glazing

Roger that. Bit the bullet and bought another 9 months. Project manager reckons we should be in by end January, which perhaps is a little optimistic...

So out site insurance expired the other day, and while I was pretty much the only one working on site for over a year it seemed like a reasonable thing to have. We now have a project manager starting with main contractor and subbies in a few weeks. They have their own liability insurance, but do I need to continue my own site insurance too? I will still be working on site where I can. Thanks all

It's what the I was advised to do by my local Nudura distributor

Hi all, looking at buying the membrane to cover our nudura walls. These walls will be battened, then the membrane put on, then batten over the top, so there will be an air space behind the membrane. I've been looking at the Tyvek Housewrap but this says it "Should be surface applied, fixed directly to sheathing ply /OSB, insulation or blockwork". Is it OK to use stapled to battens, or should I be looking for something else? Thanks all

On the plus side we actually have a proper firm starting this coming week to redo the lead

Building control had a look and said was shoddy, but as expected wasn't really in their remit to comment/enforce. Went back to original guy: came back with a list of excuses which boils down to: - I hadn't bought him the correct stuff (I bought whatever he asked me - lead, timber etc etc) - I hadn't supplied him with architects plans of the roof (this roof make-up ie steel rafters, z-purlins etc is what he came up with himself, and deviates from the architects plans which are for a timber roof structure, and anyway, does the architect need to supply drawing indicating the effing lead should be oiled, welded expansion gaps etc??!) So basically it's my fault as I stupidly assumed that a professional with years of so-called experience who said they could do the job was actually capable of doing the job. You live and learn.

I'm looking at airtightness tape now too, is there any reason why I should use the Tescon over this stuff? https://passivehousesystems.co.uk/product/gerband-586-airtight-tape/?utm_term=&utm_campaign=P-Max+Test&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&hsa_acc=4901615203&hsa_cam=20355723828&hsa_grp=&hsa_ad=&hsa_src=x&hsa_tgt=&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2qKmBhCfARIsAFy8buK_6Os1ItUfZI-IGCyuty8_T91HUY4t783aNEKLQRPHaEp4tvBgUfgaAmgUEALw_wcB Any one used it before? Only £10 for a 6cm x 25m roll

Agree render or brick slips is probably the done thing but that Easyboard stuff, if it's appropriate, would be far cheaper than render etc at only £10 a board - and easily DIY-able. Could do a 40cm high plinth and get a 2.4m run out of each board. Would be good to see the board in person before pulling the trigger, though would only be a £350 gamble for our 85m perimeter...

By 'eck that BluClad is £81/sheet!

Unfortunately the Nudura colour is a bit more noticeable, and our chickens love to peck at it, so needs something to cover.

That's interesting, will have to have a look

I was just going to screw it to the Nudura, then it can always be removed/replaced if it needs to be

Hello all, just wondering if anyone has experience using cement board as an external cladding. We will be cladding our house with a mixture of wood and currugated sheets, but will have a plinth running around the base, approx 30cm high, that I plan to clad in a cement board. It will be buried a little bit to completely cover the Nudura. I've been looking at this stuff: https://insulation4less.co.uk/products/easyboard-1200-x-800-x-12-5mm?variant=42173328195637 which says it is suitable as "exterior sheathing board". Two questions: any reason why this isn't a reasonable thing to do, and any other recommendations of board to use? I need something without writing on it... Thanks all

Update: we had a proper roofer round and he actually laughed when he saw the leadwork. Main problems are: - seams in the gully sealed with leadmate, this would last a few months according to him. They need proper expansion joints welded in (https://www.t-pren.com/) (or stepped as per @makie 's advice above) - none of the lead has been oiled/sealed, so it's oxidised - most of the lead needs to be scrapped - areas where the lead has been dressed in the valleys is done badly, needs to be cut/welded His quote to do the above was in the region of 2k +VAT The membrane still leaks like a sieve but I'm going to get that redone. So, I had a chat with the original guy and he's still adamant that the work he has done is good. He wants building control to come out and have a look - which I have arranged for Thursday - but not sure they will be very helpful or would even be in a position to take a view on the leadwork. Is it a thing that Building Control would take a position on? Also, are there any standards etc that I can quote which shows the requirement for expansion joints or sealing of the lead? On the plus side our floor was poured yesterday. All the drips coming through the roof are actually not so bad now, as having to hose the slab down a few times a day anyway!