Tom

Thanks @ProDave, but the issue for me is that while it's set at a 10deg drop, which is what I want, it isnt doing it.

Thanks @SimonD, it's an Ecodan ASHP (monobloc so no indoor unit) and the cylinder is from Tempest designed for ASHPs. I have entered the installers menu on the Mitsubishi controller and see that you can set one parameter "max temp drop" which is set at 10deg, research today indicates this is the hysteresis. So, with this set as it is, it should mean the cylinder doesn't call for heat unless it has fallen by at least 10 degrees below the set temp. However, as above, mine does - so I'm wondering if it is the lack of a second temperature probe - the one further up the cylinder - that is causing the problem and making the controller always believe the tank is >10deg below target.

One at a time please. So, on further I research I see that the hot water cylinder should have two temperature probes: one half way up that calls for heat, and a lower one that shows when up to temp and shuts the heat off. Here's the thing: my cylinder only has one probe, the lower one. So does this mean that, assuming the lower probe remains below temp and not "shutting of" the heat, the absence of an upper probe means it will always call for heat?

Hi all - my Ecodan ASHP comes on once a day to heat water but is set up in such a way that if it is only 1deg below target it comes on. Is there a way to set it so that it would say need to drop 10deg before calling for heat? I cant find this in the normal or installer menus. Thanks all

Yep, clearly the better option, thanks for the reality check 👍

Thanks @Oz07, there wont be a skirting board along this side, and the joists run perpendicular to the gap. I could run a circular saw down the gap and cut off the "tongue" of the chipboard flooring, then use a 35mmx22mm strip of wood to fill I guess.

Hi all - we have a mezzanine area that we need to get carpeted and unfortunately the chipboard flooring boards don't go quite to the edge (see pic). There's about a 35mm gap x 5m, which is just too wide to be covered by the carpet gripper strip. I'm unsure what to fill this with, the timber just visible is the wall plate and there are a few gaps that extend in to the ceiling void, so anything liquid will flow into these. What would you suggest? I don't have any more of the woodchip to use unfortunately. Thanks

A lot better. Eh? What makes you think this? It's what they call "sintered stone" I think, basically a mad made stone created with immense temperature and pressure. It's very like pocelain, but better. It's practically impervious to any scratching, solvents, staining etc - unlike the resin composite worktops. The downside is it has to be cut, machined etc by specialists.

You're right there are lots if stone resin manufacturers, they're all probably much the same. Dekton is a very different material though

Just Google dekton worktops and you get lots of suppliers popping up. If you do some on-line quotes you soon get the salesmen coming out of the woodwork, then play hardball 👍

Got a few quotes, including from an on-line national supplier, the latter seemed to get bored with all the re-qotes/questions i was firing his way and came back with something ridiculously cheap. I then took that to our local, preferred supplier who had a price match guarantee - they agreed to it, and the rest is history as they say. Just goes to show how much of a margin there is in these things though, so worth pushing and pushing some more.

We've got Dekton worktops including for an island, and they are fantastic. The initial quotes were eye watering but we shopped around and got it down from £6k+ to just over £2k - and this was for essentially two kitchens and large island.

Thanks both, have pulled the trigger on Intelligent Go and will see how things, er, go 👍

Hmmm, I think it makes more sense, but check my working: with the Cosy tariff it's 8hrs at 14.2p/kWh versus 5hrs (at night) at 8.5p for the Go - so a bit cheaper for the EV tariff and you avoid the premium rate of 3hrs at 43.45p in the evenings. (we only need the ASHP on for 4hrs or so) We have 13kW PV on the roof, so often during the day we import very little/none (and virtually none every day for 5 months or so from spring-autumn), and the night time rate will make a good dint in the import we can't reduce with the PV. Does that seem reasonable thinking?

So, has anyone experience of signing up for an EV tariff if they don't have an EV? Octopus asking for make/model and charger make. I can easy enough find the former, but I would guess i need to indicate i have a "dumb" charger - or is it just easier to say i charge via a 13amp plug?

We plan to add some LED strip lighting to "up-light" our vaulted ceiling. Total run will be about 40m but I think it would make sense to split this up and have several shorter runs that we can switch on/off. It will all be installed by an electrician, so should we go for mains voltage (which would do away with the need for transformers) or is lower voltage "better" in any way? Thanks all

Bats are mammals, soft lad

Correct.

When I was researching this it seemed that this was the new standard for 3ph meters - so I'm guessing any new installation using a new meter should do this. This was based purely on internet research though - asking the ASHP installers/Octopus/electrician was just met with a blank stare.

We have a 3ph PV system for the 13kW we have on the roof and a single phase ASHP - as @Nickfromwales says the smart meter nets out the demand/generation. So if say you are generating 1kW on each of the three phases, but the ASHP is drawing 3kW on only one phase, the meter stays still. They call it "vector sum metering" I believe.

I guess they're surface mounted?

Hi all, I'm finally getting our EPC done and have been told that as it stands we wont need an air permeability test, this is what the chap has written to me: "As it stands, without an air test, the property has an EPC of 99A and a DER of 1.20kgCO2/yr/m2. With an air test target of 10 the property would have an EPC of 104A and a DER of -2.15kgCO2/yr/m2, with a target of 5.0 (which is around the target the MVHR system would need in order to perform efficiently) the EPC would be 108A and a DER of -5.21kgCO2/yr/m2." I'd quite like to do without and avoid the cost, but I'd also quite like to know exactly what we've managed to achieve. Are there any other implications of not getting the test done though?

Thanks all. Seems like 10mm pretty standard for the external intake. I'll just have to change the MVHR filter more often, to that end have bought a 5m roll of filter wool

The C02 levels seemed to be creeping up in the bedroom for the last week, so I checked the filters on the MVHR and the inlet one was absolutely caked in crap, including lots of quite large insects. This prompted me to take a closer look at the external inlet and it seems it has a 10mm mesh covering it. Is this a bit coarse? I don't want to have to be clearing the mesh every two minutes, but then again it seems like at 10mm it lets pretty much everything through...

I supported our static on these: https://mystatic.co.uk/static-caravan-axle-stand-medium?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=18389908304&gbraid=0AAAAAC5hZe7h_azbtkOUPbU3MmfJvLwm1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7I_f6a-1kAMVV5WDBx0SDBkeEAQYBCABEgJMhPD_BwE each placed on a concrete paving slab. Took about 30 minutes and zero movement in 4 years. Trying to level the thing by using spacers and wedges just sounds like an absolute PITA.