Tom

Yes! Especially as I only needed one piece but the minimum order possible was £100!

I bought two pieces about that size and it came to about £100 iirc

you get little washers made of the same stuff to use to reduce the bridging with the fixings, but of course can never fully eliminate it

we used some armatherm to sit a vertical steel on. Ridiculously expensive for what it is really and will probably make no difference to anything other than my wallet

No, any PP granted on the land in a 20yr period will trigger the overage clause. Payment is made a short while after each overage is triggered. Re valuation, this is why you mutually appoint a surveyor: you need to find someone who has some knowledge of the specific market and some expertise in the field. Not just a fat tie and too much aftershave!

The land will accrue in value over time, with or without planning permission. So you don't want that to be factored in to any uplift in value that you have to pay a percentage of - hence why the uplift in value is calculated on the day PP is granted and based on the value of the site on that day if it did or didn't have PP. How else do you expect the site to be valued other than by a surveyor? Put it on eBay?

Sure, but it should be level with your finished floor covering - whatever you choose that to be. They clearly realise it's been fitted wrong and are grasping as straws to avoid having to replace the door (which they will need to do as they won't be able to shave anything off the lintel). Stick your heels in and hold your ground!

We bought our site with an overage of 25% over 20 years, risk was on us but we got PP and more than happy to pay only 25% of the uplift in value. Just be careful with the wording of any overage clause and make sure you run it past a solicitor who knows what they are doing. In the example you quote above "above the base purchase price" would mean you paying overage not just on the uplift in value from getting PP, but also on the increase in base value of the land which will happen anyway, because, well, they're not making any more of it. Usually the caluclation is based on the day PP is granted and you mutually employ a surveyor to value the land on that day with and without PP, and pay a percentage of that.

👍

We used NBM for our conveyancing, they're based in Essex but it is all done online etc. Was competitively priced and all has gone through.

For the same thickness you'll have very different u values for PIR v EPS

Hire something like this? https://www.farolmowers.co.uk/product/billy-goat-qv550h-wheeled-leaf-vacuum/?utm_source=Google Shopping&utm_campaign=Google Shopping 03&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=8509&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs72fg-Wg-QIV0eR3Ch2bxgDEEAQYBCABEgIOfPD_BwE

Call me mental, but if the outlet is only a few mm higher could you try putting a piece of wicking material up and over the outlet? This would help to empty the pooled water quicker than evaporation alone. Probably.

No drawings, but had had a site visit. Even if they felt it wans't their remit then why go ahead and fit the windows when they will clearly leak like a sieve? Gonna have to stop as my BP is rising again....

Perhaps, but incredibly, while we were discussing how to make it right, they showed some pictures of a recent install they did in Nudura where they used all the right tapes/trays etc! So why the 🤬 didn't they do the same for me? 🤯

Still some money owed, but they're a very reputable local-ish firm and are going to make good, so I'm happy in that respect. Just amazed that these things can't be got right in the first instance.

"So you've installed in Nudura before?" says I. Yeah yeah yeah, no probs. So that's one less thing for me to worry about? I can just put that one to bed and leave that in their capable hands? Of course! None of the windows have been installed with the Nudura specified EDPM tray or taped up the sides/top. Simply put in the opening and foamed/silicone in - with daylight visible in some places between frame and reveal.

Having our windows fitted this week. Almost all in, and none have been fitted correctly. All will need to come out again. I give up.

Thanks both. It's a stove at over EUR2k so looking at an additional EUR500. But what the hell, if self-building has taught me anything it's to be prepared to be shafted at any and every opportunity

Apologies if this has been covered before, and I think it has but can't for the life of me find the thread, but if I want to buy something from Spain can I somehow avoid paying the local sales tax then reclaim the VAT I will be charged on import here - or do I have to pay the local sales tax, which I guess I won't be able to claim back? Many thanks!

As far as I understand it if you have gaps it needs to be UV stable, otherwise it will just break down over time. There seem to be different "grades" of UV resistance depending on how wide your gaps are - the wider the gap the more resistant it needs to be and the more expensive. Whether or not it needs be be able to breathe depends on the wall make-up I guess, but I think most (if not all?) UV resistant membranes are breathable

Good spot 👍

Thanks Russel - we're not going for too rustic tbh so perhaps they will fit in, and I would definitely like the option of removing a board later on if needed. Guess I'll go for the 45mm one unless you think a 12mm "bite" from the shorter 32mm screw would be sufficient?

And why would the shorter be more expensive?

Counter batten - membrane - Nudura ICF Ring shank nails are just an arse to get out and tend to take half the plank with them, which is why I was thinking screws TBH.