Tom

Thanks all, guess I'll try knocking them in. Good idea re the rope - or at the least leave a pile of clothes on the bank so they know where I've gone in. Hadn't thought of cantilever TBH, planned probably only 1 or 2m over the water itself, so could work, will see how easily the posts go in first and could be an option. Floating too, but need something a bit more solid I think. Depending on how the post driving goes it might end up floating anyway...

Hi all - I want to build an area of decking which extends over our lake but not sure how I should be installing the posts for this. I thought I'd don waders and simply knock them in with my fence post whacker - but I'm not sure if there might be something simpler and which would not involve me likely going arse over tit. Internet seems to throw up lots of vids from the states where they use pre-formed concrete pads which simply support the weight of the post and deck, but I think I need something a bit more structural as the lake bed is very soft mud. Any ideas? Thanks all

We've using 150mm thick steel composite panels for our roof, hopefully finishing it this week. Then planned an additional 200mm layer of wool or cellulose underneath these/between the purlins. U value should be <0.10, but of course the devil is in the detail

Yep, that's what I assumed. Though maybe I'm an ass

Wouldn't you multiply?

Quote from Cool Energy: "The standby power consumption of all of our inverTech range is 0.013kW/h or 312w per 24hours as per our independent TUV test data."

Apologies if this might already have been posted, but heard from Cool Energy yesterday (from the MD, about 30 mins after emailing - which I guess is quite impressive) that their 9kw inverTech unit consumes 0.013kWh on standby.

We got a quote for charred wood from Nakamoto Forestry, was a bit eye watering TBH so we will be reusing the boards the barn was clad with originally and will try burning them ourselves. What could possibly go wrong?!

We're going to be using a mix of black corrugated steel and black charred wood on our Nudura build. Would also be interested to hear what others experiences are with wood cladding as we will be having gaps between the boards. I was planning on just using a black membrane behind.

Can I ask what the rationale is for having the cold in 10mm too? Why not 10mm for the shower?

We've got a 6m triple glazed slider coming from IQ Glass - they call it their "Minimal" system (the aluminium profiles are actually manufactured by Keller).

With a wood burner backup, as the OP has, would seem OTT to spec based on the worst case scenario perhaps? No point having an 18kW monolith out there if it's only needed for a few days in the year and you could have just thrown a few more logs on the fire...

Take it back to the wall as you have but run it at a much shallower angle as close to under the eaves as possible? In a lighter/cream finish to match the render too?

Eh? I didn't say anything about energy saving!

It's not so much about the energy savings - I think you're right, you'd probably struggle to recoup the cost - it's about the comfort. In the grand scheme of things even 10k is a small % of a 350m2 build cost to acieve this.

Wouldn't you get that with an UVC too?

This sort of thing really get's my hackles up. Tell them that they might not do it, but if they expect your business they had better start. 2.2k is a lot of money to lose for a simple itemised invoice, so if they refuse to do it they are clearly taking the pi$$

True, but what I can see these ones and just the standard look pretty similar - and I wonder if the premium is just for the rating certificate. I'll see if I can get some samples of both

Yep, will see what I can find out. Interesting that you saw them used at Centre Parcs, Peter. Could be worse I suppose, could have been Butlins...

Aha, good point re fire resistance. They are described as non-flammable and self-extinguishing, but comes down to the regs I guess. I have emailed the UK distributor to ask...

Has anyone used wood wool board (eg https://www.celticsustainables.co.uk/savolit-plus-wood-wool-boards/ ) as a final finish on walls, albeit painted? We've got quite high vaulted cielings and a concrete floor so our architect suggested this to be used in some areas to help improve the acoustics, as well as for the aesthetics of it. I quite like the look of it - and also the fact we will reduce some of our skimming costs. Has anyone here used this before in this way?

+1 for the galvafroid, use it on my land rover. Next best thing to hot-dipping

Just stumbled across my old thread and though I'd update with the solution, in case anyone needs it. So, our borehole water became contaminated with iron, manganese and sulphur dioxide. Local borehole firm quoted us many thousands for a holding tank, filter and additional pump to feed the supply. After some online research (and testing the sulphur levels with test strips) I just went for a single Fiolx-R filter unit with a Clack valve bought online and fitted myself - no need for storage tanks or additional pumps etc. Works perfectly - or at least our hair hasn't turned green - and should last years before changing the media for a hundred quid or so.?

Blimey Ian, just had a look at those, and at approx £10k it seems probably only you and George Soros could afford one! I was thinking more along the lines of a few of the Salda units, which at £1200 each makes it seem a bit more affordable...

Time to start worrying about the MVHR. The volume of our build looks like it's around the 1200m3 mark, so we need a unit capable of about 600m3/hr. This seems to be at the upper end of many of the larger models (the Vent-Axia kinetic high flow can manage 700m3/hr) which I guess has implications for noise and efficiency. Would two smaller units work better?I could have one unit serving the main living area which is approx 600m3 and a second serving the rest - but the two areas wouldn't be isolated from each other by a door. Would there be any issues with balancing the units do you think?