Adrian Walker

Depending on your soil conditions I would look at an insulated slab rather than beam and block.

I agree, that not a lot of energy 🙂

The problem with opening windows (if the house is ~airtight you will need to open at least 2) is that that heat will escape. UPS is the best and cheapest solution and could power MVHR and broadband.

That is the rain fall for a whole year. I don't think it's a goer, not much energy. If you want to use water as a battery, pressure rather than volume is better - that's what the Victorian did.

It's easy to a create a voltage, but without any current there is no power. I suspect that there is more energy in storing rain water in a roof tank and using its potential energy to drive a water motor. A typical roof will have ~70m3 of water. 70000 kg x 10 m/s² x 5 m (building height) = 3.5 Megajoules

This is a good example from Robert Murray-Smith

Smart EV chargers detect the max current and will throttle back since thy will be the biggest load and and can wait - dinner can't

Thank you.

Are you an authorised installer for Sunamp and what do you charge for an install?

Welcome to BuildHub. Are you building in Wiltshire?

I had a similar problem and found that if i disabled Wireless Multimedia Extensions in my router the problem went away. YMMV, but good luck

Unless you are part of a way-leaves agreement, then it going to be to expensive to move (£1,000,000+). That said the house prices would have reflected that.

:... grease their palms..." after they have done the job, otherwise the bath might slip out of their hands

Andrew at VAT431 is an excellent resource. Good value for money

Just because you had a bad experience, you should let others do their research, etc.

If you're considering at Isotex, then I would have a look at the Velox ICF system, which also has flooring.

If you are buying DS18B20 sensors make sure they are the real thing, not copies and work properly. They all have a unique serial number. Someone on here bought a load and calibrated them, I think 3 out of 20 failed.

The UFH pipes need to be less than 100mm down to work effectively.

You needs to get yourself a CO2 sensor/logger. This is where I get mine from https://www.gasdetectorsdirect.com/products/air-quality-guardian-aqg

Norfolk Brick have loads

I would put CO2 monitoring on your list (near the top IMHO). This will tell/confirm that you have a healthy environment.

Thanks for the update, very informative and useful.

If you live locally to me (Wimborne, Dorset) I might be able to help

Yes, Part E covers the resistance to the passage if sound in domestic building. See comments from Adsibob who has looked at it in a bit more details.

Thank you for those additional comments and observation, at least JMPS now has a plan. Sketch or photo would be useful for us all.