Adrian Walker

As Jack said, if you can hear low volume conversations then it will be airborne, If you can hear them, they they will be able to hear you. You need to get some measurement done across the whole spectrum, from their house to yours and vice versa. Part E of Building Regs - The minimum level of airborne sound resistance for dividing walls or floors between homes is 45dB (decibels) in new builds and 43dB in conversion projects. For impact sound such as footsteps, jumping and dropped objects, including furniture being moved a maximum impact sound transmittance level of 62dB is set for floors and stairs in new builds. A maximum of 64dB is set for conversion projects

Passivhaus Principle is a fabric first approach (insulation, airtightness, triple glazing and MVHR are the main four) and this is where your design time and money should be spend. PHPP is essential to confirm (and tweak) that your design works.

If it's a portable device then they should be PAT tested every year, which includes checking the tightness of all terminals.

Not sure where abouts in the build process you are, but I would run a dedicated spur from your existing house your new build.

You say that you have a couple of plots of land that you are considering, details would be useful to the group - size, PP, price, location, etc

£40K to £45K? Do you have unfavourable ground conditions or a really large house?

Just like a photographer, an architect owns the copyright even through the client has paid for it. If as a client, you want CAD files copies or complete ownership then you must agree this before engagement. Do I think that is right, not totally.

I think that you will find that tiny rooms that can’t accommodate proper furniture are designed by accountant

The biggest complaint that self-builder have with most Architects/architectural designer is that they have a poor knowledge of modern building systems and costs. It matters as much (if not more IMHO) how the inside looks and works as the outside does.

Where did you get the "three experienced lads" statement from? How are you paying them, day rate or fixed price? And yes a camera is as good a a whip!

It's doable for £200K, but that needs to exclude the land, design fees + surveys and the cost of getting utilities to the plot. For energy efficiency you need to look at and understand Passive House designs. A visit to the NSBRC in Swindon is a must.

Really 3/4 £million ?

You must immediately mitigate the situation. As suggested above you must inform them in writing that it's a serious problem and give them notice that you will get the matter under control and they might be liable for all costs. As shared ownership you jointly responsible, although Orbit do say that they will 'fixed' things for the first 12 months. (I have read the shared ownership T&Cs)

Very few because they are not going to live in it

Have you thought of using Foamed Glass Aggregate (https://www.mikewye.co.uk/product/foam-glass-insulation-aggregate) or similar) as insulation and a foundation?

I think that Building Regs requires you to have cabling for an external aerial, but not the aerial itself.

I have done research and hence my question. I'm assuming that you did a fabric first approach, with Airtightness first followed by Insulation? Thermal Bridging, Triple Glazing and MVHR would be similar for all the ICF systems.

This seems a bit harsh. What was your issues and problem during your build with Velox?

Remember that there are two external material building solutions to ICF - polystyrene and woodcrete, which allow for different wall finishes.

You have already decided that you want to build using ICF, so use the same approach to evaluate the best ICF system for your build. Ask BH members for scores on a number of factors. To start you off Durisol is challenging to get a good air tightness as it doesn't have a continuous concrete lay, so a zero IMHO

I will message you

Chris I can suggest an architectural technologist/part trained architect who can help. He live in Bicester. Adrian

Take advice on the VAT front as I'm not sure it would/should qualify as new build unless the bungalow is demolished. I would have windows with less mullions. Bi-folds are overrated IMHO.

It's a bit late now, but you shouldn't have a toilet in a wet room. The reason that most people have toilets in bathrooms is because plumbers are lazy. That's a quote from Kevin McCloud.

Welcome to BuildHub and good luck with your application, the design and build to passive house standards is a good choice. I presume that you have used an architect to develop your ideas? Has your house been modelled in PHPP? Your form factor could be a little squarer, but with lots of insulation that shouldn't be a major problem. ICF comes in many versions, but I would look at Velox rather than Durisol or Isotex if you don't want the hassle with airtightness. Depending on your ground conditions Foamed Glass might be a good way to achieve an insulated slab. For DHW (Domestic Hot Water)I would have a look at Sunamp, charged using off-peak electricity. UFH would be a sensible solution for space heating with the option for cooling using an ASHP. Your heating requirement are going to be minimal. I presume that you have a large PV array?