MikeGrahamT21

Timber frame is a good solution, which may also be required...have you spoken to a structural engineer about your existing foundations and have they been checked to ensure they are up to the job?

If I had to choose one thing for minimal cost, I’d go extractor in bathroom, it’ll dry that one area, and also have a positive effect on rest of property, but make sure you get a continuous trickle one, they make such a bigger difference than a normal demand extractor. It also depends what your final aim is? Extractor will serve you well in the short medium and long term for little expense

You have to use an approved product for full fill PIR, either cavitytherm or the kingspan product which they’ve just brought out. I should point out though that neither is compatible with thin joint as I discovered some years ago, as the boards are sized for the normal mortar beds. So if you want thin joint it’ll either have to be wool full fill or PIR partial fill. I know you said about using remedial wall ties, but they are seriously expensive and also void the BBA for the cavitytherm product as it has channels for the ties to sit in. also worth pointing out in a 100mm cavity for example none are actually full fill, there is a small cavity of 5-10mm still left. as others have said for it to get past BC you will have to adhere to the BBA documents.

Who said anything about a bathroom? I still stand by the fact these will be fine, if you are concerned you can always put a bead of glue around the last thread before driving it home.

Don't forget this is only for a mirror, since @canalsiderenovation has already got those fixings and they will work just fine, may as well use them surely?

Should be OK in that case, will be 4.5kg per fixing

How’s it fix? Single hanger, double hanger or fixing on each corner? similar ones at B&Q state max load 8kg per fixing

Triple glazing isn’t the best solution for noise reduction, but it should be better than standard double glazing. the frame of the window is also worth considering as a path for the noise. there is little you can do for the above though aside from total replacement which as they are new isn’t really an option. Was this product recommended to you for this particular situation? ensure that the opener does indeed achieve a proper seal, be 100% certain that around the frame is sealed. One trick I used to use when finding where a noise was coming from on cars was to use a piece of rubber pipe, one end in your ear and then use the other end to search for the noise. You may need to setup a source of continuous sound on the outside if the road isn’t busy to allow you to find it, and then take it from there that view out of the window looks just like the woodhead pass in Yorkshire, if it is I can imagine just how noisy it is!

Get an extractor fan in the bathroom, one which runs 24/7 and boosts on elevated humidity, I had exactly the same issue in my bungalow and this solved it along with dehumidifier on the odd occasion. you’ll need to ensure you don’t dry clothes indoors, open the window when cooking, keep pan lids on etc

You talk about slope on the unit, mine is a different one to yours (vortice), but this one has to be totally level as the polystyrene inside the casing is already preformed with the correct slope to remove the water, so check the install guide and ensure yours is correct to whatever it says. ive not had any water escape so far, normal heat exchanger, house sits around 50% RH

Maybe patience is a better idea? Wood flooring and an unbalanced atmosphere aren't a good combination. Besides the slower the plaster dries, the more durable it will be long term.

Maybe its using a set point temperature for the bypass? The fact there is condensation on the windows is good, as long as you remove it from the building, karcher window vac maybe? It'll get rid of a fair amount. The air outside at this time of year is cold and moisture laden, but at say 4C and 90% RH if warmed up to 18C, will be more like 50-60%RH which will have a big drying effect, so if you can get some heat in and leave the windows on vent, given a week or two it will shift a lot

Why not just open some windows? Sure it will let heat out, but it'll get rid of humidity. I don't think enthalpy heat exchangers are particularly suited to the UK from what i've read. I have a non-ethalpy MVHR and my humidity holds between 40-50%

22mm minimum, will give you 36l/min. 15mm only just scrapes in at 18l/min

if its not coming from the dishwasher pipe, as long as the leak is extremely slow, in the past i've left them, put something under it to catch anything, and limescale will seal anything up after a few days. If its coming from the dishwasher supply pipe though, definitely what @joe90 said, and obviously make sure there is actually a rubber seal in there too as there should be.

They do a payment plan where you just pay for the month in advance, and then on the next months payment they refund/charge for any difference, I’ve found this quite a good one to be on and it’s never more than a few £ out

If the stat is set to air temp and it’s registering 22C but the room is definitely not 22C, could there be any other source of heat nearby warming the stat up, or perhaps hot pipes in the wall? you should be able to find the culprit with an IR thermometer

EPC is just a bit of paper, means absolutely zero! arent you too warm at 22C? I struggle with anything above 19.1C in my bungalow, end up getting too warm. im with symbio for normal meter, not had any problems, they can be a bit slow to respond to emails.

Agreed, theres so much more to triple glazing than just the energy savings, its a game changer

You need stainless steel wire rope of whatever thickness you want ?

My personal view is that the overall climate is less of a problem for window frame colour. Its more the direct heat of the sun which causes any warping/distortion etc. If the general climate is warmer, then this in theory should be less of an issue, but the sun will still heat the frames to a good 70-80C.

One thing I would note is to say be careful of the MVHR sucking in foul drain gases from the soil stack. With regards the boiler, you are quite right to be concerned. My gut instinct would be to go with boiler through roof, and MVHR through wall, but there would likely need to be some distance between the two. I have around 4m between my intake and the boiler flue, and the boiler flu is also downwind from the prevailing winds.

Yeah that looks roughly about the same thickness as what I took off in my 1960's bungalow, around 15mm thick.

I have to question rising damp there. Looks like the render has go over the top of the DPC with no break in it. That left hand wall looks very damp also, paint peeling etc. How wet is the ground around there? Digging a trench next to the wall and filling with pea gravel may help, but i'd say a DPC bridge is going to be an even bigger issue.

Perfectly normal, there is a strip of foam under the tiles there to stop them rattling during high winds