MikeGrahamT21

Or surface mounted may be easier to air seal

cement based asbestos is low risk anyway, its very likely that the dust you saw was just dust and not actually from the sheet. They are incredibly hard to break and when they do they don't make much dust, you would have to take to it with an angle grinder to get any proper dust.

Works spot on for me with a humidity boost sensor, the bungalow tends to me drier than it perhaps should be majority of the time. Drying clothes indoors is just mind bogglingly fast!

Get your self some bar keepers friend just in case! But no wouldn't have thought it would stain.

Are you able to put the window on a vent style lock? I can never remember if you can do that with tilt and turn. Or even just tilt it. Zero cost. Whatever you do low cost will let cold air in, but this may not be a serious issue.

How about Larch with a light stain, you may have to get some samples and test: https://duffieldtimber.com/blog/cedar-vs-larch-cladding-which-should-i-choose

You're getting there ? Looking very nice, unbelievable how expensive nice things are these days!!

Also just to note, they will make suggestions to your plan if they think something could be better in their opinion, obviously have a think about it, but don't get swayed too much, how i designed it which is what i bought was far better than their suggestion.

You submit the plan to them for checking and then they come back with a trolley ready to hit buy, at least that’s what happened last year when I did mine

FYI https://www.stonespecialist.com/news/stones-quarries/engineered-stone-own-brand-international-quartz-international-stone

Search for iQ online, it was a value range developed in partnership with cosentino for International Stones who yes are a wholesaler. I double checked when I bought that it wasn’t Chinese and they assured me of this, the slabs have cosentino on them

According to Google: High in oxalic acid Rhubarb contains approximately 570–1,900 mg of oxalate per 3.5 ounces (100 grams) I have iQ White Quartz from International Stones (made by Cosentino). I've contacted them but not heard back as yet.

I'm pretty sure rhubarb was edible last time i checked ?

Take a look here: https://www.grpcompositedoors.com/fire-doors.php

I have similar behind my rads, 1960s plaster, its debonded from the blockwork behind, if you push it, it moves, i need to knock it off when i do those rooms and replaster. Check this on yours

Yes you can permanently stain quartz... I've managed it. Of course quartz is non porous, but the staining can come from a chemical reaction with the resin, which is actually worse. I casually put some rhubarb on my white tops, and now have a lovely little dark stain where the liquid oozed out of the rhubarb, tried alsorts to get it out but it won't shift. Turns out oxalic acid is terrible for staining the resin, and rhubarb has a lot of that in it. Ignore the samples for stain resistance also, i did exactly the same, dolloped a load of oil and turmeric on it, left it for days, and it wiped straight off, no stain, on the actual worktops, it leaves a stain, however this one does disappear magically over a day.

Where would you locate the door knocker on that door anyway? Where it normally goes is glass.

I would double coat that one to be honest. Clean it all up, and remove any rough edges with a scraper/knife, squeeze a good amount into the 'hole' to give a background fill and let it set, and then do a finishing bead over the top, and finally paint to seal it all. Another option would be to inject expanding foam down the back of it (not loads), again allow it to set, trim off any excess, and then again use the caulk/flexible filler to finish it.

Think you'll struggle with quadrant or scotia on that, its curved! Quadrant may do it with enough nails in it, but you risk breaking it. Siliconised caulk for me, and then paint over once dry to seal it and slow it drying and cracking itself.

I think i'd go resin on a DIY basis, plus its permeable which is always a plus from an environment/flooding perspective.

Take a look at these: https://www.myappliances.co.uk/Cooker-Hoods I got mine from here, was far better performing than any big brand I could find, and a lot lot cheaper, its really quiet too.

Speak to Sheffield Solid Surfaces, they may well be able to help with this.

Thomas Armstrong are another. I forget where i got my adhesive from, but it was a company through Jewson which is who delivered it all. T/A are based in the north of england, so you may still be in same situation.

Take a look at my blog to see how i've done it, i'm also in a 60s bungalow. I've used PIR, but always make sure that there is something holding the PIR in place from underneath, i used metal clips screwed into the joists, as I have had it in the past drop down with the natural movement of walking on the floors. Plenty of expanding foam in any gaps, and whilst the floorboards are up you may as well whack an airtight membrane down before putting the boards back in, even a breather membrane will be better than nothing if you don't want the expense, and make sure its all taped up and taped to the wall before skirting goes back on. Make sure all ventilation paths are fully open, and insulate the pipe as temp has said, as the temperatures following insulation to the floor in the void will be much colder during winter than before.

Careful not to blow any fittings off with too much pressure!