Chanmenie

It will only be storage, not big enough for anything else, other than the MVHR pipes and manifolds

Yeah I have a 50mm gap between insulation and felt / tiles, building inspector didn’t ask to see it

Hi all I have nearly finished the insulation in my attic trusses, I have put insulation from the ridge to the eaves as I wanted the lofts warm. Is it recommended to plasterboard over the insulation in the loft spaces ?

Also have a look at Newark Cylinders. They do heat pump cylinders with 3.4m2 coil or the HG cylinder with 6m coil https://newarkcylinders.co.uk/

Have a chat with Simon at Nordica https://www.nordica-uk.com/ I have the Alu clad windows but mine are painted white inside, lovely Scandinavian windows at a good price

EIS at Watton Norfolk

I’ve bought URSA acoustic but have not fitted it yet I did get it at a really good price. I have heard it on good authority that’s it’s much nicer to use than Isover as it’s a bit stiffer so for ceilings it will stay up between the joists when you go to fit the plasterboard.

Yeah 0.24 doesn’t sound great, I used Beco Wallform 375 which is quoted at 0.14 so the PIR 200 floor and 205 roof should get me to passivehaus standard

I fitted 200mm PIR in the floor under the UFH and 205mm in the roof You could also add insulation to the Nudura if the U values are not great. What are the U values for your blocks

How are you planning on heating the property ? If the ASHP is just for DHW

Worked for me on iPad with Google sheets

Works for me. if you still have problems give me a shout I’ll email you a copy

Ah I did wonder if there were structural reasons. not convinced the rebar chairs do make it any more efficient as you still heat the whole slab

Could you consider fibre re inforced concrete and ditch the a142 mesh ? be much cheaper. So much easier to staple the UFH pipes direct to the insulation plus you are not driven by the mesh size, and the pipes are fully supported

I’ve got lots of room my joists are 9” plus the counter battens so should not need any tight bends. Where they will go up the plantroom wall they will be between 2 joists so I can gently arc them then clip to noggins

Good advice thanks @Nickfromwales as I’m counter battening the ceiling I might just fit all the pipes then batten up to the pipes and plasterboard, the gap will only be small and probably not really noticeable, seems like an easier option

For Hardie cladding boards they state minimum 20mm air gap

James hardie say you must have an air gap behind the boards, so sticking them might not be an option anyway

My plantroom is a big cupboard at the back of the study, so ideally need it to look neat. might go with the plasterboard with holes drilled idea. Be fiddly but should work ok

So you guys that have done a manifold radial system for hot and cold feeds how did you approach the pipe through the plantroom ceiling ? plasterboard ceiling above the manifold then drill appropriate size hole for each pipe and pull the pipe through ? or just leave a gap for the pipes to go through ? Pics of ceiling would be great if anyone has one

Which it should not do as the concrete ends up inside the house and will have DPM at the base.

@Onoff does this pipe work ok and empty the toilet properly. how much fall is there ? I will have a similar horizontal run, I can get at least a 1:40 fall, but the toilet is approx 2.5m from the vertical stack so I am a little concerned that it will draw enough flow to clear the pan. The house I currently live in has a shortish horizontal run with very little fall and very annoyingly tends to leave the paper and or floaters behind.

Yeah I did my own plans and building regs. I did have a sample set I obtained from an architect, so used them as a base document. Saved a few grand in fees and BCO was happy so winner winner

The CE-IVT9-EVI is R290 and available now I believe It’s rather expensive though, a £1k more than the Vaillant Aerotherm plus

I had similar situation with car keys, I lost them between the garage and the front door, our garage is behind the house, so can be accessed through the garden or round past the neighbours on the path, I’d walked round the path. Anyway insurers insisted on the locks and keys being changed. Cost was £1200 but took 4 months as some bits had to be ordered from Japan. fortunately is a free add on with Aviva so no loss of NCD. And also fortunate it was a second car. Bit annoying not being able to use it for 4 months though, and the dealer left it outside where it got covered in seagull poo