Chanmenie

Yes probable but I designed the house to make the install really straightforward, the plumbers said it was the easiest ASHP they’d done and the shortest pipe runs.

Recently fitted Alu clad windows into my ICF build, I used pro Clima exapanding foam tape road the frame then Illbruck FM330 air tight foam then rather than an internal tape I used a brush on liquid airtight membrane as @Russell griffiths suggested. Then finally plasterboarded the reveals

Not always, I had a Veismann Vitocal 151a installed, so that’s ASHP and internal unit with tank, buffer, pumps and all valve etc for £1800 You can’t even buy a good heap pump cyclinder for that let alone the ASHP itself

You don’t really need a roller, but probably a primer then 3mm latex screed then glue them down. Why would you need a soft hammer for glue down ? I used the Ardex 175 adhesive on my upstairs landing and bathroom as that was what the flooring supplier had. It worked well

You can clip the UFH pipes directly to the insulation then pour fibre reinforced concrete on the top, thus saving the cost of rebar. The main issue with polished concrete would be the need for expansion slots and potential cracks if it’s a large area

There’s two types, glue down and click, the click version can have an underlay or has a built in underlay and can be used on slightly uneven floors. The glue down does not have underlay and needs a perfect base to lay on.

I have a 4KW Veismann ASHP and can’t hear it even when standing quite close, I actually need to look at the fan to see if it’s running

I’m installing the James Hardie VL plank which is similar to the Cedral Click, my property is modern looking so I preferred the flush fit as opposed to feather edge. Its not difficult, other than for installing on my ICF i need to screw through 180mm of insulation into the concrete core. Both Cedral and James have documents on air gaps and how to install.

How about this and cut to size yourself https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145921349462?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=_jYh3d7qRwK&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=RFd2NvYhQZC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Welcome from a fellow Norfolker 😂

Yeah that looks odd, I used a continuous dry verge that had a drainage channel so any water that blows through step gap between tiles is directed under the battens and down the channel

Yeah just had mine rendered, the guy cleaned with a brush first then rasped the blocks didnt take long

I still have the standard filters at present as it’s only been running a couple of weeks. The Advance S is big enough for my house and more advanced than the plus B, it’s also quieter apparently

It is very sloppy, I’m not a bricklayer but I can lay bricks better than that. I’d certainly be looking for a new builder, as it shows a total lack of pride and care, you’ll forever be worrying what else isn’t done properly. If a jobs worth doing it’s worth doing well !!

I didn’t buy the Zehnder in the end it’s a bit too big and heavy for where I wanted to mount it. I have the Vent Axia Advance S, it uses 125mm ducting which worked perfectly with the roof vents which match my roof tiles.

I am in the same boat so contacted my current home insurer Aviva, I told them i did not have final sign off from BC. They were happy to provide cover on the proviso that they would not pay a claim that was a result of poor workmanship, quite what difference to that final sign off would make Im not sure, as BC don't see everything. Premium was the same or cheaper as i went from a 4 bed to a 3 bed, the.y have actually covered both properties for 30 days as my site cover expired before the completion date for the sale of my old property.

That’s handy to know, my blocks had been sitting on site for several months before I laid them. I’d heard the main reason for cracking is too strong a mortar mix, so on building sites the labourers won’t do two separate mixes so the bricks and blocks get laid with the same same 4:1 or 5:1 mix which is too strong for aircrete blocks

I laid all my internal walls with durox aircrete blocks and a 6:1 mortar mix, didn’t have a single crack

Theoretically it should only condensate or get rain water from the atmosphere side, which is the side you configure it to. mine I’d also configured for left side

I bet you spoke to the same guy I did, I had a strange gurgling noise, tech guy said I have to have a Hepvo valve but I said the instructions say a U Trap is ok. Any ways I used gaffa tape where the condensate pipe enters the stand pipe trap and that stopped the gurgling. I am getting condensation on the left filter, haven't removed the heat exchanger yet, and don’t have any water dripping out. My unit set for Left Handed and it’s tilted backwards so I assume the drain is working correctly.

Yeah some plasterers can take care. I was lucky too, my plasterer is old school he does things properly.

I cut the plasterboard so the window boards “ears” were back to the block behind the plasterboard, Slide the board in to the plasterboard, draw round the ears then cut with a multitool

Are dry ridges an option with the tiles you are using? I did my own roof 190m2 but it has gable ends not hips

Yeah I back buttered it’s quite easy with a little practice and gives confidence

Yeah I saw that, that looks crap as well. if the wall is a bit off flat just use a bigger notched trowel. That will give a much better contact area. Dot and dab is just lazy IMHO, I’ve watched lots of tiling videos and no professionals use dots and dabs, they all use notched trowels