Chanmenie

Have a look on the websites for MVHR manufacturers try Vent Axia or Zehnder or BPC https://www.bpcventilation.com/

Hardly surprising with that bunch of contributors 😂😂

Brilliant thanks @Thorfun I had read quite a bit of that thread but missed that bit, probably fell asleep as it’s 23 pages in and a monster thread, very informative in places though 😀

When reducing to 10mm from the manifold 15mm female can you just use a 15-10mm reducer spigot pushed straight into the manifold Sorry if it’s a daft question this plastic stuff is all new to me 😀

Thanks guys hadn’t considered the fire risk

What’s the best method to fix plywood to blockwork ? I’m planning on lining the wall of the plant room with plywood rather than plasterboard to make it easy to screw pipe clips and support brackets to the wall. Anyone got experience of attaching plywood to lightweight (aircrete ) durox blocks ?

Both considerably cheaper than paying a painter and decorator if you need the whole house painted 😀

Yeah the 350M Pro looks good

Graded roof tile battens should not split

Which model did you get ?

Hi @Nickfromwales I’m going to batten my ceilings like this using 25x50 battens, do MBC fill in the ends where the battens meet the partition walls to support the ends of the ceiling plasterboard or just rely on the plasterboard on the walls to give the support.

Reynears do a cover for the non cill threshold which is what I’m having on my Reynears Master Patio ( updated version of the CP130) see attached picture, the cover acts as an overhang to direct water away, the threshold also has drainage. But rather than worry about drains I’m going for composite decking with a 9” void underneath and French drains so any water hitting the doors will run straight through the decking and soak away 220513 New Build - Sliding Door V? (T-Hold).pdf

Thanks for the responses guys, I think I caused some confusion calling the empty space either side of the uprights “loft voids” so unlike Eric’s diagram I am putting PIR (175mm) between rafter from the ridge to the eves so the entire roof is insulated. Ive decided to use PIR under all rafters from ridge to eves instead of the suggested superfoil.

I’m sure more experienced members will be along, but for starters 600mm wide strip footings of 300mm deep concrete followed by trench blocks. compare the cost of this against going for trench fill with concrete. Concrete is expensive but probably less than the labour costs of laying the trench blocks unless you’re planning on doing it yourself.

As per SE instructions I’m building my non load bearing partition walls with blocks, the are non loads bearing as don’t carry any weight but do act as vertical support for the exterior ICF walls. Whats the best way to tie the top of the walls to the joists where the jousts are parallel but offset, can I just affix some noggins between the joists and use metal builders strap or angle brackets screwed directly to the blocks or should I also fit a wall plate. I will also be fitting perpendicular battens to the underside of the joists to create a service void, so these battens will butt up against the walls either side as I’ll fit the battens after the walls are built.

Could someone point me to the spreadsheet or share a link please.

What are building warrant drawings ? I did the building reg drawings, but I’d meet the regs without the additional layer underneath. someone suggested it would be easier to use the superfoil than the PIR under the rafters but then he is an insulation salesman. I think as you said, I’ll stick with PIR and cut and tape it around the bracing

Yeah as in my picture the insulation goes from ridge to eves, I don’t understand what’s confusing about it ? You have obviously use PIR under the rafters, and you have the loft voids either side.

I am insulating from the ridge to the eves, so the voids either side and above the living space are insulated, The voids / space either side of the bedrooms can then be used for storage and means I won’t have to insulate the MVHR pipes

I have almost finished the insulation between the rafters of my chalet bungalow, which is made up of 2 layers of PIR 100mm and 75mm the rafters are 225mm so I have the 50mm air gap over the top. I am undecided on what is best to use under the rafters, where the sloping ceilings are I will brace the trusses with 12mm ply then fit 30mm PIR across the rafters, my quandary is what to do in the loft voids due to the 4x1 bracing, should I continue with the 30mm PIR and cut and tape it around the bracing or add 1” battens to the underside of the rafters and use superfoil, if the latter I’m concerned about joining and taping the superfoil to the PIR where they meet between the uprights and over the truss cord, to achieve airtightness. The truss designer has confirmed its ok to remove the diagonal 4x1 bracing where the sloping ceiling are and replace with 12mm structural ply, but that still leaves lots of bracing in the voids to work around.

I have a steel beam over my 3.6m sliding door opening, SE said I wouldn’t get any deflection, presumably because there are no rooms above. Sliders are being made with total 20mm clearance.

What size wall plate do you have 4x2 or 4x3 and how much would you want to notch out NHBC state minimum wall plate size is 38mm x 100m

Concrete pump would be a bit of an expensive luxury for just 6m3 plus I think you’d need to check if they will pump a leak mix. with a little help i mixed 4.5m3 put it in buckets, on a conveyor belt and filled the gable ends of my ICF build, so 6m poured into footings cavities should be a breeze

Thanks guy’s

Yeah I have used bitumen DPM before many years ago, I could not think of any reason it would not work but just doubted myself. Here’s the front door threshold, the DPM has been cut off as it was damaged by traffic and I had to grind the blocks down a little as they were a little high for the flush threshold required. I’ll fit the door then raise the level of the porch with slabs or tiles so it’s flush both sides.