Chanmenie

R Wall ICF pretty common around those parts I believe

So you need to start max 270mm down to give 1:100 fall which I believe is the min fall you can have. Not ideal but you’ll have to have the pipes in the insulation layer

I brought my pipes in over the strip footing under the PIR but I have loads of fall to play with as the main is approx 1.6m below my finished floor

I think I’ve decided on the Zehnder Q350 with enthalpy exchanger, however the unit has 160mm duct spigots, whereas the most cost effective silencers and manifolds are 150mm I’ve also found some nice streamlined roof vents in 150mm. Has anyone used a Zehnder unit and reduced the pipes down to 150mm, I’m assuming 10mm smaller won’t make much difference but I’m an MVHR virgin so would appreciate feedback for you more experienced guys

As @Nickfromwales said lose the screed and put the UFH pipes in the slab, I did it slightly different in that I didn’t use mesh, I clipped the pipes directly to the PIR then used fibre reinforced self compacting concrete. You’ll save the cost of the screed and have room for more insulation

Just keep ringing round or try a broker. I worked for Aviva for the last 21 years but retired last year.

Yeah I worked in the insurance industry for 30 years and know of a lot of happy customers because the insurance paid out on claims, I also know where claims were not paid because the claimants were dishonest not that they would ever admit it. You would not believe the bogus and dishonest motor claims the companies deal with on a daily basis.

Yeah but the point is you must answer the questions honestly, or they can invalidate any claim, whatever the circumstances. if they don’t ask it’s fine, but any questions asked must be answered honestly

That’s not a good idea, in the event of a claim if they find out they’ll invalidate the claim and you get black listed or done for fraud.

Have a look at EWI Store they do external insulation and the silicone render to match and can recommend an installer in your area which would then give the warranty. I believe their render is up market from K Rend https://ewistore.co.uk/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwn_OlBhDhARIsAG2y6zNNjisDZYjLv_qO1YE5UXtv1ZiLnyev9BmOg76A-zZaeuGcMcuWIDoaAgtZEALw_wcB

Yeah I went direct to local Eurocell branch and got a great price

I have a south and west facing conservatory with solar glass and can use it comfortably on the hottest of days, so yes solar glass really works

I got a much better quote from Eurocell

I might actually use 6x1 as the fascia’s will be 200mm, or I’ll fit 150mm fascia with the large over facia vents on the top which I think are 50mm

Can I ask the name of the online retailer please

I’ll be using the over fascia continuous vents yeah I won’t use the thin capping boards, had good quote for the Eurocel 16mm fascia. Certainly makes sense re affixing the gutters

My roof trusses should be craned on tomorrow so I’m looking ahead at the detail of soffits and fascia’s. l’ve watched a couple of videos by Skill Builder and the Tall carpenter, both very informative videos. The tall carpenter advocates fitting a 4x1 sub fascia then the PVC fascia, Robin Clevit just nails the PVC direct to the rafter ends. I guess it’s just personal preference but I’d be interested in your thoughts, on the best way to go about it.

I have one of those, works great 👍

That’s impressive 👍

I'm in the process of blocking up my internal walls with Durox aircrete blocks, so i got to researching about screwing in the door linings and read lots of horrors stories about the blocks splitting. So I was thinking would it be feasible to substitute some of the aircrete blocks for something a bit stronger say a whole block or half a block on every third course. If so what blocks would be most suitable, which will take a concrete screw or plug and screw without the fear of splitting.

I’d use option 2 The only thing I did different was instead of 150mm concrete with rebar mesh, I used 100mm fibre reinforced concrete, much cheaper and easier than laying rebar mesh. Plus it works better with UFH as the aggregate max is 10mm so it’s more like a screed than concrete and is poured very wet so is self compacting

Yeah that’s not great hence the BnB But yes I’m pretty sure you need a slip membrane, 500g polythene much thinner than DPM. Celotex or Mannok is usually much cheaper than Kingspan, how thick can you go with the PIR

Do you have bad ground (clay) ? if not why have block and beam, ground bearing slab is more efficient. I put a DPM under the PIR and a slip membrane ontop of the PIR, but I had concrete not screed. The slip membrane prevents the concrete from damaging the foil face of the PIR, I assume screed would do the same

Hi @nod when is a deflection head needed. My chalet bungalow will have attic trusses with a clear 9m span so there will be deflection, however I will have non load bearing block walls below which can reduce some of the deflection but not take the load of the trusses, so should I have a deflection head ?

Interesting as the ESP is thicker steel at 0.6mm I think the Gyproc is 0.55 mm