gaz_moose

Brilliant, when i phoned them to enquire they asked what was going in it, So i said 'just bricks' and she replied £200 cash so i jumped on it and didn't think to ask about weight etc.. as the other place round here said £235 +VAT 😆

Today ive been knocking down a decent sized brick wall and filled a 4 yard skip very neatly with all of the bricks. Then it dawned on me that maybe the skip wagon might not be able to lift it or the floor of the skip might give way, i did mention to them on the phone it was getting full of brick, Will the driver actually take it or do you think they will ask me to unload it? This is the first skip ive ever had.

Mine came folded up but had come a bit loose so was all floppy. Think mine was 6.4 x 5.1M i just built a ramp and winched it up with my recovery truck as i was knackered from building the roof.

they do those rubber joiners like in badgerbodger's post in big sizes like you need. I bought one by mistake a few weeks ago from a builders merchant. Although if it were me i would just put mortar around it like the other one, id probably put some SBR in the mortar too.

you are going to be in the realms of industrial roller doors at that width. that will give the the 77mm high slats in the door. you could look at sectional garage doors too as they take up less headroom above the door. i just bought a 2.7m one from roller door uk for £900. lucky you want black as that is a standard (cheaper) colour. permaroof epdm stuff is good, i like the gutter edge trim as it looks nice when done, although it is an absolute pig to fit. call them as you will get a better price ( my online quote was just under £1200 and after a phone call it was £680 delivered). you can not bother with contact adhesive for the side and just use the deck glue. A piece that big is going to be heavy so remember to eat 3 shredded wheat that morning 😁

China is the land of the EV. shame they have yet to figure out panel gaps. they will all be in the scrap yard in 5 years time though.

i like gyproc easi fill 60 but its a powder you have to mix up. these are good Silverline Body Filler Application Set 4 Pcs - Screwfix just sand the sharp corners off them if your a novice. the screwfix own brand filler in the small tubs is decent. my entire living room is basically crafted out the stuff as the mongs that lived here before seemed to love using drawing pins to attach Christmas decorations and cards all over the walls so they were full of small holes. i also like these Fast Mover Tools, Foam Hand Sanding Block, Soft, 150mm : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools with mirka gold DA discs. but if you have a DA with extract then use abranet discs on it.

I can understand why you would grind it down if you had an exact floor height to work too. I'm lucky in that it only needs to be the height of the driveway that isn't going to happen till next year so i can easily build it upwards. i did have a quick look around google last night and saw that sikaflex stuff, guess im pouring £300 on the floor.

I meant leveller. i think im going to use a resin top coat.

which brand/ product would you recommend? ive only ever used screwfix own brand or mapei where you mix it with water.

Angle grinder with a cup brush did the trick to remove a lot of the top layer, after about 60 seconds i couldn't see as far as my arms due to the dust, so it was slow progress. could do with some rain to wash all the neighbours houses off 😄 the everbuild 403 says 5L covers 25 SQM of floor and want 2 coats 24 hours apart, so I bought 3 bottles, I managed an area the size of a supermarket car parking space with the first bottle so have had to order some more, seems they do a 25L barrel so went for that. Yesterdays coating has done a really good job, i rubbed it with my shoe and no dust came up, todays coating didn't absorb as much straight away but will see what its like tomorrow.

well the everbuild stuff was delivered about 8 am this morning. which is mad as i bought it about 1 pm yesterday. ive got a broom that i bought from the poundshop that is solid like a scrubbing brush so will go and blast it with that. ive a bit of an agreement with my neighbour that i wont make noise before 10.

TBh i knew i was forked when it started raining. I purposely left the creamy stuff on the top so it would catch all the mortar I was going to drop on it as I found it came up easily. id still like to level it because ive only really got this chance to get it nice before I fill it full of stuff. it does brush up fairly easily, should i just brush loads of it off.

i went out and scraped at the floor in a few places until I hit solid stuff, seems the rear of the slab is the worst with a 5mm groove dug then it tapers off to 3mm by about the middle, then to solid. i will look for a final finish floor leveller. i live round the corner from a cement truck filling place, could i just get then to come and pour me something over the top if i put that everbuild stuff down? the internal dimensions are just under 30SQM so it would be a decent amount of leveller to mix in a bucket.

ive just ordered some everbuild stuff, i will dig at it in a bit when i get home to see how thick the soft top is.

over the past week whilst its been raining outside ive been painting the walls inside and using some offcuts of DPM on the floor to catch any drips. its not been damp underneath any of it so im confident the slab is dry inside. ive also had some decent sized offcuts of EPM on the floor. I do need to put some kind of leveller over the top as when i sheeted it over when the rain started i put old bricks around the sides which then got flung into the concrete when the sheet took off in the wind, i trowelled these area the best i could but they are a bit wobbly. Im annoyed that it hasn't turned out as my last garage floor was like the surface of the moon so i wanted this one to be amazingly flat.

we basically poured it when it was dry and then the 20% chance of rain actually rained for the afternoon. it was open to the elements for about 3 months during the summer and now has a roof over it for about the last month. it has a dpm etc.. underneath it. i think all the stones etc.. have sank to the bottom and the sand has risen to the top. can i use the 'just add water' type levelling compound over the top or will it be too fragile for a garage floor?

it was proper concrete out of a volumetric truck. there was a decent amount of that laitence creamy stuff on the rear part. I scraped it all off with a shovel. I dug down about 5mm with the screwdriver with not to much pressure applied. I only really stopped as i didn't want to ruin the screwdriver, i suppose i could see how deep a groove i can dig to see how bad it is tomorrow morning. If needs be i could bring the height of the floor up a maximum of 20mm. I just wondered if that concrete hardening stuff was the answer to my problem.

It rained on the day we poured my concrete slab and as a result it has gone dusty. i did try and cover it over with some DPM but it went windy and blew it into the concrete 🙄 Its been about 4 months and its still dusty and i can grind a rut into it with a screwdriver so i know its not the best. SO what are my options? Ive seen concrete hardener Everbuild 403 Concrete Hardener & Dustproofer 5 litre | eBay should i coat it in something like this and then self level over the top? its for a garage so will need to be able to withstand car jacks etc.. i di google it but then reached a conclusion i should just burn it down 😁

any D4 glue like chipstick. if any glue spews out just scrape it off with a shovel when its dried.

i broke my phone on Thursday. so lost any pictures i took. i used my generic Titan type SDS drill set to SDS on a low setting and nibbled away at it. I removed about an inch of concrete from underneath so i could get the new pipe in. I slapped washing up liquid on all the fittings first to make them easier to assemble then tightly wrapped everything in plastic bags ( charity bags 😆) before burring it all in concrete again. The swivel adjustable angle bends are amazing, shame they done do them for every type of plumbing.

a spade didn't do any damage to the concrete yesterday. im just going outside with the SDS.

the plastic pipe at the back is for the household waste and the pipe in the foreground is for the rain water. i want to plumb in a new pipe for rainwater so really should go into that one. ironically the concrete encased pipe is preventing me from getting the fall i would want if i was to 'accidently' go into the household waste pipe. i just wondered if anyone had some magical way to chip the concrete off the clay pipe. im glad to hear that it might have something between the two as an isolator, it at least gives me some hope.

I was digging down near the corner of my house to expose where the underground pipe runs. I have located it but it is covered in concrete which seems to be part of the footing. the house is a 1980's so i presume that the pipe will be clay as the surround for the downpipe drain is clay. I want to put a Tee piece into it to add another rain water drain. it will join in from the direction the picture is taken from. My idea is to cut along the dotted line and breakout and replace everything to the right all the way upto the house, would this be my best option? im worried about compromising the house foundations. i did think about just bashing out the area that i need but cant see how i would fit the Tee piece. The pipe seems to be ontop of the house slab but just a mound of concrete ontop. the one one in the background is a rodding point for the house waste. this is in plastic. basically i don't know what im doing can someone tell me what to do 😂

Sorry for the lack of reply's I've just been crazy busy. i was speaking to the guys at rollerdoor and because my door is wide i would have to go for the 300mm roller box and not the smaller 205mm one. i was doing some thinking and i have 260mm of depth in the joists/wall plate and my total door height at the lower side of the opening is 2350 from floor to bottom of joist so will probably cut my noggins out and put the roller box up into that space. If i go up into the joist space by 200mm then have 100mm which i can trim over in soffit to match, this will give me an opening height of 2250 which is still decent.