gaz_moose

over the past week whilst its been raining outside ive been painting the walls inside and using some offcuts of DPM on the floor to catch any drips. its not been damp underneath any of it so im confident the slab is dry inside. ive also had some decent sized offcuts of EPM on the floor. I do need to put some kind of leveller over the top as when i sheeted it over when the rain started i put old bricks around the sides which then got flung into the concrete when the sheet took off in the wind, i trowelled these area the best i could but they are a bit wobbly. Im annoyed that it hasn't turned out as my last garage floor was like the surface of the moon so i wanted this one to be amazingly flat.

we basically poured it when it was dry and then the 20% chance of rain actually rained for the afternoon. it was open to the elements for about 3 months during the summer and now has a roof over it for about the last month. it has a dpm etc.. underneath it. i think all the stones etc.. have sank to the bottom and the sand has risen to the top. can i use the 'just add water' type levelling compound over the top or will it be too fragile for a garage floor?

it was proper concrete out of a volumetric truck. there was a decent amount of that laitence creamy stuff on the rear part. I scraped it all off with a shovel. I dug down about 5mm with the screwdriver with not to much pressure applied. I only really stopped as i didn't want to ruin the screwdriver, i suppose i could see how deep a groove i can dig to see how bad it is tomorrow morning. If needs be i could bring the height of the floor up a maximum of 20mm. I just wondered if that concrete hardening stuff was the answer to my problem.

It rained on the day we poured my concrete slab and as a result it has gone dusty. i did try and cover it over with some DPM but it went windy and blew it into the concrete 🙄 Its been about 4 months and its still dusty and i can grind a rut into it with a screwdriver so i know its not the best. SO what are my options? Ive seen concrete hardener Everbuild 403 Concrete Hardener & Dustproofer 5 litre | eBay should i coat it in something like this and then self level over the top? its for a garage so will need to be able to withstand car jacks etc.. i di google it but then reached a conclusion i should just burn it down 😁

any D4 glue like chipstick. if any glue spews out just scrape it off with a shovel when its dried.

i broke my phone on Thursday. so lost any pictures i took. i used my generic Titan type SDS drill set to SDS on a low setting and nibbled away at it. I removed about an inch of concrete from underneath so i could get the new pipe in. I slapped washing up liquid on all the fittings first to make them easier to assemble then tightly wrapped everything in plastic bags ( charity bags 😆) before burring it all in concrete again. The swivel adjustable angle bends are amazing, shame they done do them for every type of plumbing.

a spade didn't do any damage to the concrete yesterday. im just going outside with the SDS.

the plastic pipe at the back is for the household waste and the pipe in the foreground is for the rain water. i want to plumb in a new pipe for rainwater so really should go into that one. ironically the concrete encased pipe is preventing me from getting the fall i would want if i was to 'accidently' go into the household waste pipe. i just wondered if anyone had some magical way to chip the concrete off the clay pipe. im glad to hear that it might have something between the two as an isolator, it at least gives me some hope.

I was digging down near the corner of my house to expose where the underground pipe runs. I have located it but it is covered in concrete which seems to be part of the footing. the house is a 1980's so i presume that the pipe will be clay as the surround for the downpipe drain is clay. I want to put a Tee piece into it to add another rain water drain. it will join in from the direction the picture is taken from. My idea is to cut along the dotted line and breakout and replace everything to the right all the way upto the house, would this be my best option? im worried about compromising the house foundations. i did think about just bashing out the area that i need but cant see how i would fit the Tee piece. The pipe seems to be ontop of the house slab but just a mound of concrete ontop. the one one in the background is a rodding point for the house waste. this is in plastic. basically i don't know what im doing can someone tell me what to do 😂

Sorry for the lack of reply's I've just been crazy busy. i was speaking to the guys at rollerdoor and because my door is wide i would have to go for the 300mm roller box and not the smaller 205mm one. i was doing some thinking and i have 260mm of depth in the joists/wall plate and my total door height at the lower side of the opening is 2350 from floor to bottom of joist so will probably cut my noggins out and put the roller box up into that space. If i go up into the joist space by 200mm then have 100mm which i can trim over in soffit to match, this will give me an opening height of 2250 which is still decent.

rubbish isn't it. I've got gutters to fit but I'm not doing it as its muddy because I've not got any gutters. must be nice having a field.

i drove over to a garage door showroom to have a nose around. i think I've decided on a sectional up and over as it would work best. a roller door requires space above the opening for the roller which i don't really have so i would have to lower to opening height and have a massive bit of upvc trim above the door. I'm a bit stuck on what i should put the height as, I did try to pump the ruff sales bird for how its done but she just wanted to send a salesman round 🙄 The roof slopes from right to left and the door is on the front so the brickwork on the right side is higher. i then just cut the bricks to match the angle for the front and back. the joists sit on a 45mm wall plate so i screwed a length of 45 to the bottom of the overhang noggins which gave me somewhere to fasten the soffit. i was going to mount the runners inside the brickwork and not on the back/inside of the pillars. so erm yea, is the height.. A. the lowest side joist B. the lowest side soffit C.

ive had a normal up and over horman on an old house and it never gave any trouble. this one is 2.6 / 2.7M wide so i need something fancier than an up and over, i did have a 14ft up and over before but it was knackered and i always worried it was going to fall on my head when stood underneath. Rollerdoor says the top box is 205mm high, i did plan on sticking it up between the joists but overlooked the fact that ive got noggins between the joists. unless i just chop the centre noggin out of the last row?? 😬 good shout on the sectional doors, i didn't realise the track took up so little room. This is what ive built, excuse the dodgy brickwork its the first thing ive ever really built using them and it does need a going over with some acid.

its for a residential garage on a housing estate. i don't want something usually found on an industrial estate or a kebab shop. but i do want something that isn't rubbish. i did think that you get what you pay for but at the same time i don't want the Landrover equivalent of a roller door 😁 , i was trying to find where the Value for money line is drawn 😐 The garage is only single skin brickwork so i know it will never be economical to heat but the ceiling is to be insulated ( because ive some spare) to make it a bit more comfortable in the winter. Mr joe90, did your door rattle in the wind? did it keep the draughts/weather out etc.. would you buy another one from them? as they seem well priced.

i am at the stage in my build where i need to start looking at garage doors, i think i would like an electric roller door instead of an up and over style one. I see a company on ebay called 'rollerdoor.uk' have any of you guys used one of their doors? are these things fairly easy to DIY? Are there any things i should look out for when deciding what or which company to buy from? i know next to nothing about roller doors so it is blind territory for me sadly. i just want one that works with no fancy bells or whistles that is decent and wont fall apart.

in england its 2.5 from the highest point. a dual pitched roof will gain you the most internal headroom. what are you building the walls out of?

acro props and some strong boys to take the weight whilst swapping the lintel. swapping a window for a window wont need any inspection, it should really have a fensa certificate for the new window but most don't seem to care so i wouldn't be too stressed about that part.

the land is on a slope so the rear internal floor is lower than the external floor height. i built the back up higher in engineering bricks to compensate. i was planning on coating these brick in some bitumen tar type paint before i back filled it. is this my best option? i have just over a tonne of old gravel from my driveway ( round beach type stuff) that i was thinking of back filling with this on the higher parts to act as a kind of french drain. would this be a decent idea? Although its only a garage i do intend to keep stuff i like inside it so dont want it too be damp.

Well.. I knocked the old garage down and dug up the wonky slab. 2 grab trucks later a bit of concrete and this is where I am currently at.

i joined a garden room facebook page and a few people have had dramas with getting ground screws put in as they have ended up being slightly out of position. i would probably dig a hole and concrete in some threaded rod.

you forgot to attach your drawings.

attach some timber outriggers to the side of that joist, then build a soffit/facia board end then clad your wall upto the bottom. then use easy-verge over the side of the roof tiles.

how much do them bricks weigh?

So i had some labourer type guys in to smash up an old concrete pad. its about 150mm non reinforced. At first they turned up with titan type breakers that were not doing a great deal. so off they went and rented a big Hilti 3000 jackhammer type contraption and a 110V transformer. this then seemed to be faulty so had to be swapped at the hire place. this worked great for about half an hour but then melted their extension lead. then it would trip the 110 transformer. Today they went and rented a Belle genset and everything was working great for a few hours but then the genset stopped, it was hot so it was left to cool down, now it runs for about 30 seconds with no load applied and just stops. its not a cough and splutter then stop its just a straight stop, adjusting the revs or choke seems to make no difference. it has fresh fuel and seems fairly new. they didn't run it out of fuel, how have they managed to break it? its kind of holding the job up now. the job has now gone over the proposed time so i can foresee some conversations on Monday. but it is mainly due to dodgy equipment that they have provided.

rip it all off and start again.