gaz_moose

upvc cloaking fillet UPVC Window Trims | Eurocell

what he is suggesting is to use a frame strap, so you don't have to drill through the frame. on upvc windows they clip into the edges of the frame (that face the brickwork) and then you screw then to the inner wall which would then be plaster boarded over. tbh i would go with concrete screws straight through the frame into the stonework and decent expanding foam. the fischer ones with the built in rawl plug are old hat nowdays. (im no upvc expert BTW) Window Fixing Clips / Door Fixing Strap (6pk)Schuring 70mm UPVC Window Systems | eBay

you could just buy 20 blocks and some sand/cement and have a go at building walls/ corners to see if you think you can actually do it yourself. that is if you actually want to 😆 are you planning on doing the slab yourself?

soudal silirub lmn is the stuff to use.

customer supplying all the stuff usually translates into customer is buying the cheapest tat they can find.

the 25kg bags of hydrated lime are massive. easily 3 or 4 times the size of a bag of builders sand.

i tried sponging over the grout with boiling hot water and it didn't soften it up at all. i will try some abrasive cutting compound on the silver scratches see if it gets them off.

Cheers for the reply, I was looking at that one, roughly how long would it take me to rake out 4M of metro tiles? and does it knacker the tiles if the sides are abrasive as well?. it took me about a day and a half to stick these ones on as someone who has never tiled before. so wondering if it might be best to just cut my losses and bash them off the wall 😬 , whole situation is annoying as i did a real nice job of the tiles.

tiling my kitchen splashbacks and i waited too long before wiping the grout off and it has set solid (Gutted) i have used mapei anti-mould grout . Water and the abrasive side of the sponge are not touching it. they are only white metro tiles. what would be my best way to salvage the situation?, I tried scraping a bit of grout out with a 1" scraper and it left a grey scratch on the tile. are those abrasive grout rakes any good? ive managed to get pretty much all the grout off the faces but the grout lines look terrible as they are really jagged. be gutted if i have to bash the tiles off and reskim the wall.

so your saying an amateur brickie can do 550 in a day with an amateur labourer, That's fairly reassuring for crazy people who consider building stuff them selves. what was your brickie charging you? per day day or per 1000, it seems to be about 600 per thousand around where i am but thats for big sites. then 'improver' brickies are on about 150 a day same as a hoddie.

seems a shame to use steel sheet for the roof if you have cavity walls.

what rates did they give you?

if he is just small scale then i bet they don't have a yard and just move the kit from job to job. that's how my neighbours scaffolder worked, but they had scaffolding left up for a few extra weeks.

i bet you could live in an insulated one though, for reference there is a place round my way that sells the 40mm insulated panelling for £18 psm. wonder how loud it is inside the non insulated one when it rains.

cheers for the replies guys. I think it would be the death of my mixer if i attempted mixing that much with it, plus it would be too much aggro, better to just spend the money on some things. i was just panning on using a trench foundation and getting the mixer lorry to back right upto the edge.

Are you guys DIYing the slabs for these or do you get a company in to do that part? im in the process of planning a 29 square metre garage and cant really decide if im brave/foolish enough to do my own foundations.

is it worth it for 3 months? id weigh up the transport costs / VS just renting a small place for the duration.

i would clad it in UPVC.

This is what they said, Hi Gary I have discussed your proposal with my team leader and we are prepared to accept the new position of the garage but you will need to include a brick finish and you would need to plant a hedge or have some sort of planting scheme between the rear of the garage/the fencing and the pavement. Please can you have another go at the plan to include the 2m high fence and a hedge or other such planting that would provide green screening. Thank you Kind Regards Mr Poo Poo Head I suppose they they have spotted the cladding is 2m high to match the fences and the building is 2.4m high which leaves me a bit at the top. I figured that i would have a bit of EPDM roof and 200mm of cladding to span most of the gap.

i literally live on a red brick, brown windows style 1980's Barrett housing estate so it should be fairly plain sailing. The current boundary is a 2m high brick wall that i want to move forward to create extra space in the back garden for the garage so had to apply for planning for that, So figured i would include the garage build in the planning application to stay above board and so i could build it a bit bigger. I was trying to make the external side of the garage the boundary to eek out a bit of extra space. its just annoying that their bright idea is to 'just' build it out of brick, as i had planned to build it myself and am confident i can lay blocks to an acceptable standard but bricks are a whole next level.

I submitted a planning application for building a flat roof detached garage on my side lawn which runs alongside the road. The planning department only got their knickers in a twist about it needing to be further away from the road so I jiggled the plans around to facilitate this and resubmitted as I had discussed with them thinking I was onto a winner, now they have come back saying they are happy with everything except the external finish. Only 2 sides of the garage will be seen from the road so I had planned to build it from 100mm blocks and clad the boundary side walls in shiplap and add a matching set of gates / fence. so it matched every other side fence around here. now they want the whole thing building from bricks that are similar to the house which blows my budget to pieces as it makes the walls something like 8 times more expensive. They are happy for the bricks to be clad in shiplap still 😆 which make no sense at all. How the hell do I move forward on this one?, they are currently awaiting my response. I did hint that I couldn't afford the brick option but they didn't buckle 😪

jeeze what kind of customer are you checking the trades work with a spirit level.. the grey things are just plastic packing spacers used to stop the glass units sitting in the bottom of the frame/ for heel and toe'ing the glass unit. space around the frame. complain about the scratched handle and get them to just fit a new one. the rest is fine.

just buy the knock off blum ones for cheap Grey Textured Cutlery Tray for 500mm Blum Tandembox Drawer | 422mm x 414mm | eBay

good for when you have to wedge your head in awkward places. and probably nice to have a bit of extra light coming in through the front. my weld bench has a strip light above it and sometimes i get a reflection on the inside of the glass in the mask, which is a bit off putting, so this would help with that.

the DIY kitchen draws are just standard BLUM units incase you didn't know. just be mindful that the top draw might have less depth than the others. (depth meaning front to back) the 'off the shelf' plastic ones only fit the top draw perfectly then all the other have a crappy gap.