Barney12

I do like a nice wooden shaft personally. but I must admit for "construction" I tend to reach for my FatMax. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stanley-151277-FatMax-Curve-Hammer/dp/B00481IK9A but in all honesty I think Dave is right. Pop down to your local DIY shed and fondle a few shafts for girth, length and weight

I think this may uncover a general disconnect between the portal and LPA's as ours said exactly the same thing. Oh and my 28 days was up this week and still no answer. Lets face it; government and IT do not exactly have a great track record! Well unless its for wasting billions of tax payers money. I have a step brother-in-law who is a senior finance manager for one of the (many) government project teams in Capita. The stories he's told me over the years make me want to spontaneously combust!

@gavztheouch question re copyright of design is an interesting one. I don't know the legalities but I guess if you were to copy it exactly then you most certainly would be vulnerable if the architect firm was to find out (I.e by reading about it on a public forum. Oooooops!!) However, i can't see it would be that hard to change a design sufficiently for it to be questionable if it was copied. We certaintly took inspiration from a large number of designs in the local area, that's one part of the online planning system that is rather useful!

+1 on Polarwall. When I was researching ICF they were incredibly helpful and really embrace the selfbuild market.

Your builder is certainly no slow coach! Great progress!

Congrats. Lovely part of the world. If it's a replacement dwelling why have you had to pay S106?

Its gone up since I bought mine a few months ago. But still only £5sq mt. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FULL-10m-ROLL-only-65-Diamond-pattern-checker-plate-rubber-matting-1200mmx3mm-/112190153214?hash=item1a1f0de1fe:g:BmYAAOSwpRRWoQIl if I was buying again I'd go for the thicker 5/6mm stuff. Its a bit crap tbh.

So, I've managed to sneak a couple of days off. Inside painted and finished. It's wall to wall MDF, Laurence Lewellyn Whatsit would be proud . I was far too tight to buy anything pre-made so everything (wall cladding, door linings, architrave etc) is all just cut and routed from sheets. Todays job is to lay the rubber flooring. It was some cheap stuff from evilbay. I have a feeling its not going to be fun to lay Then just the skirting to cut and fix. Then move onto to the sink unit, storage and other bits. Yes, and before someone says it. Its all overkill for a workshop but I'm keeping myself amused until we get planning sorted TTFN

IIRC the only difference with bathroom grade laminate is the cores resistance to moisture. However, using a standard laminate is perfectly fine. Just ensure every cut edge and the back is fully sealed before fitting so that if there is ever any water ingress it can't soak and expand the core. You can seal it with PVA, yacht varnish or a water seal product (like Thomsons).

I feel your pain. We've just had exactly the same situation. Another two weeks lost. We are now being told that we need to wait 28 days for a decision. ........and I have had several pints of Jail Ale before writing this!! praise the lord for beer.

too kind. They need naming.

"There is none so blind as those who do not want to see"

Yup. Napalm it

Indeed. Now let me show you a "proper" gap from our place: The piece of timber you can see was to support the plasterboard, its was completely loose. Oh and yes that is the ground floor and that gap below the lintel was also behind the plasterboard. the lintel has about 20mm supported, JUST! I don't have a picture of the outside but the gap was covered by a circa 3" wide piece of uPVC trim.

I had a HUGE amount of construction timber on our site. I sat and looked at it and said "I really cant throw away / burn most of that". It then dawned on me just how much work it would be to de-nail, sort and then stack (somewhere!). In the end I just put an advert on Gumtree "Free Wood", It was ALL gone within a day. One guy turned up with a Luton van and filled it. Many others just filled their cars for fire wood.

Yes. Alas Peter is right although it in practice may be quicker as they will probably only allow for a 14 day consultation with your neighbours. If like our authority they will write to them to say that you have amended your plans and give them 14 days to comment.

If it's really bugging you you could get a cheap cut off stand if you've already got a 4.5" grinder? Something like this but there are cheaper ones on EvilBay https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/einhel-ts-125115l-angle-grinder-cut-off-stand/?da=1&TC=GS-060521040&gclid=CNDLgY6vmdACFVQ_GwodePgD5A

Aaaa I C. Regardless it looks great!

The cills look to be the colour of the walls? #confused (doesn't take much )

I fitted them in our last place. As @ProDave said they're only circa 400w so not much use as a PV dump. That was a standard radiator based oiled fired heating system. We only used the electric element to dry the towels in the summer (when the heating was of) and had them connected to a timer/boost switch that just heated the radiator for a predetermined time. One of these: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Water_Heating_Index/Immersion_Heater_Timers_2/index.html This worked well for us as two of the bathrooms were not used that often.

I would firstly test to see if it's powdercoat. Looking at the reaction on the surface I'd be fairly certain that's a cellulose based coating. Grab some cellulose thinners and either chip off a peice of coating and place in the thinners, if it softens or dissolves its not powdercoat, or put some thinners on a rag and rub the surface. If the coating transfers to the rag then again it's not powdercoat. This would be a useful starting point for not being supplied what you ordered and a failure of contract.

Welcome. Beautiful part of the world.

Reject it. Looking at that paint finish (I doubt very much that is powerder coat) I'd give it a month before it starts to rust! not to mention the fact it is very poorly made.

Either in a duct or in soft sand is standard. The theory being that the pipe "pulses" with water demand which could cause a stone, sharp object etc in the ground to slowly wear through the pipe. In practice I cant see it being that likely but for the price of a bit of ducting or a bulk bag of builders sand do you really want the grief? We ducted all our runs as the ground is full of rocks and stone.

I'd go with ofcuts of ply or OSB. Both have good compression strength and won't split. As for circles, if you've got the time !!