TonyT

You can fit 10kw of solar your inverter just limits it to the DNO max allowed.

Go the DC Route with batteries

I would get a piece of ply the size of the dropped area, secure a perimeter 2x2 to it, then screw to the ceiling, plenty of decent fixings and then build from that. ensures no future issues

Is he doing the plumbing, electrical, plastering, painting, joinery work too?

Cause you only take photos of when you finish sweeping up! no seriously good result, provide bins, skip, designated dumping areas and keep the site clear, my mate is pulling his hair out on a job cause of that much rubbish on the floor making it difficult to use telelift. he didn’t make the mess, but ends up doing it

https://directchannel.uk.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=3507

Ah when I were a lad it was a hacksaw with no teeth and spend they day cutting and filing by hand then neatly brushing galvafroid paint onto the ends… then the chop saw came a long and it was abused accordingly to do all the things you shouldn’t like used the side of the disk to grind the uni after it was cut to length then we dipped the uni into the paint to save brushing it.. now you probably order direct pre finished!

It’s great building stuff out of unistrut!

You get screws with a drill tip, so you don’t pre drill google gyproc screws

All the soapy bubbles can block the air gap, going up the size helps..

Looks good! I would have like to see another valve the other side of the valve just like a pump, all helps with future maintemance

https://flameport.com/electric/socket_outlet_circuits/index.cs4 designing out a risk, that’s good design I think , I just like high power appliances not to cause any issues. I have no issue if anyone wants to fit double sockets, it’s not a coding issue just not my thing.

Think the 20 amp, 16 amp on one outlet and 6amp on another is out, but I can’t remember where I read it. anyway you design the space to fit the machine, design the waste connection, design the water connection but stick a double socket for anyone to plug anything into., someone may even spur off it on the outside wall to supply the patio heater😀 I prefer single 13 amp sockets less risk for appliances that have heating elements that may be on at the same time…

is the property built yet? what services do you have? what type of construction do you have in the floors? do you have a plant room, cupboards in each floor for accessible manifolds? any PV?

I think fitting a kitchen is about a lot of other things. making sure pipes are long enough to reach into rear of units without joins, bringing pipework under sink to ensure the space under the sink is usable, with isolation valves in every service having separate sockets for washing machine and dish washer if applicable I.E not plugged into a double socket. having plywood in the walls at the correct height for wall mounted units, base units etc so that it’s just screwing into units, all this makes installation easy. I like pre-made units now, my time is worth more, and I have more demands on my time. oh and making sure high level units are at a correct height for hob clearances…

I made a cover for my car charger, I just drilled the slate with a masonary bit, on drill not hammer. Never punched a hole in slate and didn’t have spares so drilling worked for me

Me and my joiner built our timber kit, I don’t see any less quality, it’s just cutting with a chop saw and nailing with a nail gun. Get a bench set up and away you go

Edit

any cable has to withstand the environmental, voltage and current conditions they are expected to operate So if it was my install I might consider ducting below 600mm or a point where impact is reduced, lower if it a field that gets ploughed for example. cable warning tape in layers above duct and suitable signage at ends of cable, armoured cable into appropriate DC isolators.

You need to know the string voltages to compare it against the 230 volt cable, this can of course be 2 core to reduce costs and utilise the Swa as an earth conductor

It would be better to design out. The problems now, rather than the builder just make an arse of it/and charge loads more money for probably a job that will give you further grief, you already have had poor experiences so designing out problems and having proper working drawings that you can actually build will save you grief and money later…

If you neighbours aren’t letting you access to render how do you plan to build even with brick? you still need to access the wall to build it, guttering, downpipes. Isn’t there a distance from a boundary? mu council insisted on a 1m gap between the boundary for maintenance purposes

So when you decide to start, do a dry run without glue pushing the pipe in the fittings and orientating as required. once happy put marks across the pipe and fitting so when gluing you have a reference mark to align..

In-line fans do it all the time

Make sure you have a concrete poker too to get rid of the entrapped air