TonyT

Are the windings intact and you can just measure the primary and secondaries?

I have Gas at 2.915p per kWh and electricity at 14.074p per kWh both with standing charges 15.34p per day. thats what I want a website to show me, - the money nothing else.

Those energy switching sites are useless, asking how many bedrooms do you have? Who cares! tell me the price of a unit of gas/electricity and any standing charge and I will make my own decision.

Door blank as Joe advises then https://www.directdoors.com/blogs/help/glazing-doors-cutting-aperture-glass

https://www.ttseries.com/product/micromanometer-test-hole-bungs/ or indeed drill hole, silicone hole and wrap tape over for belt and braces.

Ah ok! if it were me I would stick with the fan heater, less grief 100% efficient, no servicing required. or maybe a retro fit heater in the mhvr?

Use some clearCT1 silicone it works on damp materials and will seal problem area, slacken off j mounts some CT1 on the roof side and tighten down, CT1 squishing out under washer

no the polystyrene will attack the cabling. cabling sheath will go sticky and cable starts to degrade. put cable in metal conduit drops to prevent cable touching or staple DPC to sheet and clip cable to sheet

Yes I knew he had UFH, but what was it connected to? not connected them up could mean it’s not been done yet, not that there isn’t a boiler

always go with the bigger cable, you never know what you will have to supply in 5 years time, so a sensible upgrade from 16mm to 25mm makes sense to me. EV Charging/ Heat Pump etc We always use flexible 100mm ducting for cables, makes it easy to complete ground works and install electrics later, and no one ever complains about not being able to get cables through it

the initial post doesn't say what heating system is installed? Is it gas or oil? If so and you are that hardy to live with 15 deg temps inside, fire up the boiler?

nothing band from sites from HSE point of view. its more that large construction companies have their own rules... ie no working off step ladders use podium steps etc. i prefer stihl saw for cutting blocks, as you can connect up hose and dust suppresion is sorted.

Network cable to TV location Network cable to PC/Xbox location. have Alexa sitting on top of the microwave in the kitchen when I want to play music while cooking. that’s my smart technology.

I spoke to my local authority about sockets and switch positions asking them that I would like them to match the existing house, sockets in skirtings and light switches slightly higher. they were fine about it, email kept for evidence.

I think it will be fine, the important question is your supply earthing PME, as you don’t want to be exporting the earth if you are using it for a hot tub. normally gland the swa as normal but don’t use a swa gland if it’s going into a metal box use a stuffing gland, so that the earth isn’t touching the metal box, then an earth rod in the ground and a conductor up to the earth termination and connect that earth in. so the DNO earth protects the swa uo to the point of termination and your earth rod takes over for the equipment such as hot tub, where bare feet, water and electrics and PME create a higher risk.

A switch where you can isolate all the electronics and have the lights on in the event of system failure etc im all for automation but you need to factor in when it fails, currently have a building where the BMS failed, waiting on replacement part and engineer to fit- outcome nothing running in automatic

The inductive load of the motor will require a larger generator to start, due to starting current. N&E need to be connected at the generator along with an earth rod, best get an electrician to check the electrics out but the generator is probably undersized for motors, fine for resistive loads etc.

Do you have an architect drawings of the area? just to see some of the detail? don’t apply an external waterproofing solution, it’s masking the problem

https://www.navitron.org.uk/forum/index.php?topic=31836.0 maybe this can help

My old Wimpey house in Edinburgh had this, probably the modern equivalent of sarking boards... I never gave it much thought.

The chap in the link has a house with 77m2 floor area so remember that! im enjoying reading his posts. you also get triple panel convectors, so even better heat output.

I think it’s a personal situation and how you heat the home currently and to what temperature you are comfortable with. i have a Victorian property and heat it with a condensing combi boiler, year on year making more and more improvements as time, funds and willingness for disruption allows. Second boiler in this home now fitted after 14 years use, boiler modulates to lower output and weather compensation controls etc, I’ve tried running boiler output temps lots lower and the room temp difference is noticeable, SWMBO noticed the drop in temp and has medical issues so need to maintain temps that’s acceptable to us. good luck with whatever you decide

https://www.screwfix.com/p/external-render-bead-10-12mm-x-2-5m-5-pack/32449?tc=MC3&ds_kid=92700058024392967&ds_rl=1249407&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrbec3eyC7gIVx57tCh1wbAbyEAQYASABEgIy3_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I would have one at 5m intervals I have a 10m wall with one in the middle with the expansion joint filled with a mastic to match my render.

How long is the wall and do you have an expansion joint, as the can be hidden with downpipes if planned a bit