TonyT

Use a tin of expanding foam, spray it over the reinforcing to make a dam. Dig out later

https://www.mirashowers.co.uk/shower-trays/mira-flight-low-rectangle-1200-x-800-4-upstands/ upstands on the shower, the waterproof covering/ wet wall goes inside the shower tray

Shutter out for the whole tray area if not sure and concrete it separately once decisions have been made.. far easier than digging out concrete. +1 for the upstands.

The top of the conduit would be behind the plasterboard ceiling so the plasterer wouldn’t be able to affect this. The Silcone in the box would be applied at the end of the first fix, so it will be dry and won’t be in the way for second fix. stripping outer sheath of twin and earth has to be inside the box. So that’s sealed too.. if there is no conduit it’s just the silicone at the bottom to deal with.

You aren’t going to get the top after plastering, that has to be done after cables are pulled in.

Joe90’s got it

No you wrap the metal boxes then hand them over to the electrician to fit as normal it then only leaves the cable entry hole and 2 fixing holes.

What about getting a tarpaulin, and a bit of timber like 2x2. wrap the end of the tarp around the timber then screw through into the wall, should help water run away from the area. maybe scrape the ground so that the water runs away and if needed get a pump to take the water away.

Wrap the box externally with tescon tape or similar then fix to wall will be cheaper. lets assume 1 knock out with a gromett and 2 fixing screw then to get a dab of silicone over to completely seal them

Only 97% chance of marriage, come on man. Those are poor stats.

I’m not sure what Ringing Alto would achieve? your settings were high, the fabric of the building needed to get up to temperature, etc what’s the insulation like in the house? walls , floor, roof etc?

The soffit vents like that need to be placed at regular internals, alternatively you can go for a continuous strip that’s fitted in the soffit. one or two won’t be enough... every 60 cm maybe and both sides of the roof for cross Ventillation there should be a drawing that dictates this info. I.e. m2 of vent required, divide this number by the area provided by 1 of the circular vents to give the number required, then divide the soffit evenly to get the spacing

Probably cause it makes the install harder for the ASHP person, like most trades unless advised otherwise they will take the path of least resistance and install what is easiest for them.. especially if there is no specification/ consultant/M&E drawings...

Do a smoke test on the existing chimney to see if you have any leaks! i didn’t but still went with a stainless steel liner to reduce diameter/insulate get better draw. good luck

https://www.fife.gov.uk/kb/docs/articles/planning-and-building2/planning/planning-applications/view,-track-and-comment-online here is the website for Fife Council. just type in address etc and find info and click away. failing that maybe you can contact the architect And get copies of info?

Fife Council has their drawings on line that you can do a search and find all the drawings for a property. Is it not the same for the local area where you live?

Yep good point

I went to Scotframe but they didn’t do extensions, so my joiner and I cracked on and did it. 60m2 done. Saved loads

Yep, drive over, track over, one and the same

That’s strange because QS on site used to check what was installed and what was on site, I assumed you got a proportion of the on-site material, this was from a large main contractor / sub contractor relationship with the usual 90 days payments

Depends. Did you use a water or oil based undercoat?

https://www.arrowvalves.co.uk/media/wysiwyg/pdfs/evcpdatasheet.pdf

allow 1litre on the expansion vessel for every kW of heat from the heat source

At work a plumber removed a blank on an 800 litre buffer tank, to insert an immersion heater, he didn’t drain it down and the water leaking minimal. the immersion was at the bottom of the tank? wouldn’t fancy doing it myself