TonyT

Sleeping pipes is standard installation practice not just for sealing for air thightness.

I would have counter battened as Onoff suggested. the number of fixings from the batten into the VCL would be less than if screwing plasterboard to it. slimine down lights are also available but these generally have a led driver elsewhere to locate. https://www.cablejoints.co.uk/sub-product-details/cable-jacks/rise-rapid-cable-duct-seals I’ve used this in areas where gas is present, it’s I suppose the quick version of a cable transit, where cables used to be individually passed through a penetration in a wall, surrounded by rubber block and squished to make a seal.

sorry that was 2 replies not indicating that the pylontec batteries were IP rated

Have a look at plyontec batteries. outside is fine as long as the IP rating of the inverter and associated components are suitable for the environment.

The warranty is worthless as it wasn’t installed properly effectively making it null and void.

Yes, didn’t want the thread getting locked too soon as I’ve got a bet with the wife it will be on page 72 before it’s locked

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Or it’s because it take 10 pages to agree that the roof trusses will take your weight. 17 pages to cut the plasterboard hatch! 12 pages to explain skirtings The list goes on, and then you complain you miss posts.... what’s the temps?? get the installers back, it didn’t cost you anything for the install, so you are quids in

But if you put the battery in the loft, allowing for the weight and higher operating temps you then need to know exactly cabling requirement back to consumer unit. where as if you say fit a 100x100mm trunking along the wall and fit everything below the trunking cabling through the trunking, it makes everything easier. can’t imagine getting a battery in a loft The latest Tesla battery is 114kg!

And sleeve pipework through the wall to make it easier to seal and remove in future. so you could drill a 25mm hole, put a bit of 22 copper pipe in the hole, seal this to the fabric of the building, then pass the 15mm pipework through this, sealing with clear silicone at both ends.

I fit Megaman GU10 warm white they are Dimmable with varilight dimmers. https://www.varilight.co.uk

I would try and have the incoming power in a garage so that inverters, meters, consumer unit, future batteries can all be added, configured and commissioned with little or no disruption to the house. I would oversize the PV as it’s cheap in the grand scheme of things, it will allow more useable generation in winter months.

Mate you are acting like a ?? i can’t bear the pain of you trying to hang a door, cut a hatch in the plasterboard, fit skirting and would gladly skip it but am interested in the ASHP, so bleed the radiators, put the heating onto on, constant or ramp the temperature up on the thermostat so it’s calling for heat and put the thermometers on the pipework.

The inverter limits the output to the max permitted

Bumping original thread

From another thread by Zoothorn. Hi ProDave- sorry I forgot I replied with my update of it just installed, to my ASHP thread of last year! Its a Vaillant arotherm 7.5kW. Split? I'm not sure, but it does rads + dhw. Nothing else. What I have is the big mo-fo fan box outside, & two stiff copper 12mm ish pipes (clad in white thermo blanket stuff) just flexible enough to bend into a 3ft coil next to the fan unit, & then up my outside wall > bend inwards into big hole drilled > into upstairs cupboard new vaillant boiler. They make quite a droning juddering noise when 'on', pressure inside or s'thing. Sorry photos are n/a. cam impossible. Oddly the installer chap came back (due to an odd error code on control unit, but he can't shift it) establishing all actually running fine despite error.. so did a rads full heat test. Bar a wee leak (coming back again with some rockwool- kindly to try tamp the white pipe noise) running well. Hot water is fab. Lastly he reset control back to some sort of default setting I guess, 1st asking if I wanted rads on (no), only thing I saw was him dialling temp down to 5.0*C so rads all off (got the gist of the dial, to do this much). And since then.. its all been -blissfully- quiet & Ive not once heard the fanny mo-fo on, once.. so no night noise/ no pipes in action at all. I don't understand.. but dare not even look at it in case I wake it up & it gurgles & judders & makes fk knows what noises. Im terrified of it. Apart from -jesus the flamin coincidence- right now.. when its made the 1st 'on' droning fan-on > pipe-pressure annoying noise since he left on thursday. 5 mins only tho. Its a prominently, intrusively annoying drone. I will not handle it if it does this constantly with rads on.. I'll have no choice but turn it off (If I'm able). Maybe separate the heating info on your original thread?

You can fit 7kW and limit to the single phase maximum. EV also a good way to use the surplus.o

yes, I’ve used vermiculite when I first bought the property and found a ,dead space between the vestibule cupboard and lounge cupboard, poured a few bags in Im going to go under the floor next week and stiff glass wool in the gap where the ground floor boards wall junction to stop anything falling out!

EPS and pvc cabling isn’t a good mix I understand, so think I need to look for an alternative.

Thanks A_L. I’ve read these documents before, when I was in the planning stage, now my extension is finished, I’m looking at further thermal improvements on a room by room basis. trying to get motivated to do the work is another matter...

Yes but at the moment there is no insulation and I can’t retrofit without damage to cornice, walls etc but can pour media from floorboards above

The lack of a sketch, with suitable info/ brief list of make ,model of equipment installed with sizes of radiators, room sizes, temperatures at various locations window sizes and a reluctance for any internet searches to provide info for personal learning in various subjects despite repeated posters asking for this to help him out, then referring things as udders, looong radiators- and other unhelpful descriptions shows a willingness not to want to help himself. I think this thread should be closed.

https://www.mikewye.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/GEOCELL-Foam-Glass-Bubbles-brochure.pdf i was thinking about using them subject to availability locally for insulating behind Victorian lath and plaster wall

Definitely won’t do any harm.

What about expanded glass beads as a fill medium?