Oz07

Same as you. I've heard kommerling is good?

any links?

Is there a sensibly priced manufacturer or profile I should be looking to when seeking UPVC windows. Are all profies pretty much the same i.e. extruded bits of plastic or do some have integral insulation? or some other enhanced feature? I'm happy to accept the 20-30 year lifespan

If you've purchased conveyancing has hopefully thrown up a few clues with utilities maps and wording of any covenants or easements.

@JSHarris @joe90 why would you be concerned about using concrete? Surely in bang for buck terms it could last 500 years. As your houses well built and low energy surely this offsets any concerns.

Furring strips are fine. I used 3" difference in course height across 3.6m garage so no strips needed there but horses for courses. You may struggle to get t and g osb at sensible money depending on local stockists. You'd only need 4 rows of noggins to catch all joints on square edge.

Ok Jeremy corbyn

Just say to achieve x amount of db reduction. Make sure x is the building regs figure. 38?

Always better to have more room than less. Can knock a tread off or pitch down. Other way round it's squeaky bum time when bco walk round. Not that they actually do anything nowadays apart from look at your level threshold

That one I linked looks to be @PeterW Also ardex do one k80 I think

As in last at work? Are they upto harsh site works

Mines not so bad in contrast I reckon 3mm over the lot. Was out there rescuing it at half 7. Just underlines what a skill concreting is and how little of that skill I have!

Another option would I be as well to grind and seal it? It's quite level and new so perhaps could get away with high grit disc?

Caught a bit of a cold today doing my garage floor concrete. Managed to rescue it to a half acceptable standard. What products can be used over the top to finish it off? I've seen this https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/Cementone-Cempolay-Ultra-Strong-Self-Levelling-Floor-Compound-25kg/p/741202&ved=2ahUKEwjq9M_g6YDlAhW_WhUIHcsSALAQFjAGegQIBhAB&usg=AOvVaw30IiISkM_tZhOwYHsj2XKw I've also seen epoxy paints but they look expensive and prep work looks a pain. Then there are the pvc floor tiles but look expensive for what they are. For context the garage may have a car in 5% of the time. The one I built in January hasn't had a car in yet so it's mainly for kit. Thanks in advance

What are these filtration systems like is mains water that bad for you? I just fancy a softener

I thought they meant it was the other way round ie house being built twice expensive however looking at it probably not. Polycarb ha I was thinking this bloke is going to regret these cheap materials but perhaps perspective changes if you're in his position

I bet that scissor truss house was a good performer walls looked thick. Didn't look a Mickey mouse job

Anyone watching tonight. Just flicked through. Those scissor trusses looked good inside never seen them before. Wonder if insulated on top to remove cold bridges

Are you talking including the board. Sorry I thought you meant just the dab

Well 10mm on plumb in a 2 storey house is acceptable. Normally 5 m ish. Tbf it should be straight on a line horizontally but 20mm may not be end of world

25mm dab bloody hell!

This must happen all the time on commercial sites. I bet theres a metal system like then use internal for dry lining? @nod? That jumbo stud they run up the walls can get over any problems

thanks for sharing

Is a PM generally a better value option than a contractor? What incentive do they have to keep in budget? (sorry to digress)

Wonder if the doors have 2 tennons. Don't like to see flush bolts on face of door can compromise joint. I'd be trying to reglaze and and resquare packing as you would a upvc door to keep square