Oz07

Cavity closers built in, blockwork pargecoated inc reveals upto closers. Windows fitted, clearance caps left unfilled at fitting. Window board fitted foamed underneath with decent 10mm ish gap. Illbruck airtight foam. 10mm ish OSB board cut into strips roughly sized from back of window frame to face of blockwork. These all stuck to blockwork/lintel obviously spanning junction of cavity closer to blockwork. Illbruck airtight foam again. Fill window gaps in internally at this point also. Screw plasterboard onto osb job done. Wetting the OSB and blockwork/lintel seemed to help. It's a pain to set up but easy if long winded after. Window board goes on first to give you a level platform. A jig built to hold the head OSB while the foam gets it. After half a day than comes out and reveals cam be stuck on and held with friction or a couple of temp pins into head and window board. Good for blind fixing in head too.

Maybe pink then for the little extra cost of one ceiling. Are you protecting the icf internally in garage got to be higher priority?

@tonyshouse I used them and got 1.19 air test. Its all about the detailing. Lots of flexible sealants, tapes, foam available. At least the bottom corners of these are welded

I didn't think water boards could refuse surface water to combined foul if site conditions did not allow for soakaways? I had permission for rainwater into foul as recently as like 5 years ago

Just checked it was that company.

I've dug through it before no problem. Only like when they do a utility connection in the road. As long as you compact in layers

Yes not sure if it was that exact company but much better than fitting afterwards. Very cheap too compared to time measuring and cutting afterwards plus sacrificial cost of timber formers

They don't my auntie is the neighbour.

I was 1.19 ap50 whatever that means but happy enough with that. Anything below 3 apparently mvhr pays for itself not sure I believe that though.

Sorry @Gav_P thought you meant the reverse. It's next to my heating manifold with 65c temp or something like that. I suspect the heat warped the rubber. I think if my new one fails he will have to put some disclaimer in the instructions about placing near heat sources.

Also @Gav_P No need to encourage price increases!

Not sure. Quite a bit of detritus in there from plumber soldering above. One day I went to bed and that whole half of the house stunk of drains. I tipped a touch of water in there regularly till replaced and it made a seal good enough to stop odour. He took it away to examine. Helpful guy really

Depends how good it is. We have a yard here can literally get super clean like 35-70mm crushed concrete. I don't think you'd be able to tarmac straight ontop probably need a 2-4" layer of smaller clean stone but you'd do that when the build is finished. I wouldn't worry too much about it clogging up to the point of non permeable. A type1 would do but not a product without fines. It's not going to be any less permable than the ground below any way.

Some decent 6f2 or clean 50mm is what you want can be left down then. Geotextile too non woven.

Is it not the wrong flashing kits been used? Different kits for different tile profiles

Does anyone here use Hotun for a trapped tundish discharge? I had one fail on me recently the owner/inventor cam round, replaced and left me with a spare. Was good service but doesn't give too much faith when 6 months old

Where will you put manifolds if you have in the same cupboard/area?

More than you think for all the pipes above it

So pretty much the worst case then. I can't understand why some get away without

Hi @Timedout what do you think to the photos in the link I posted. They haven't had steps removed but don't look to comply to me. I understand there are a lot of properties signed off which don't meet regs but seems strange to me with a national builder and NHBC sign off

@PeterW Getting specific are you saying height to underside reveal (knowing build up can be quite thick)? height to bottom rail of roof window? height to the bottom of opening where it clears the roof?

Seems a bit of a weak spot in the regs did you go through photos in that link no way do they comply.

my filter light seems to come on every 4 months. Cant think of any other reason access is needed. The filter light comes up on control panel so wouldn't have to access machine to check

To be fair i worked on a 1.5 storey new build a couple of years ago and that 1st floor bedroom didn't have MOE compliant windows either and was signed off.

Without wasting hours googling could someone please point me to the area of the regs which deals with MOE and the 1st floor of barn conversions please? I see many places where they simply have roof windows and to me they don't look big enough or at the right height for MOE. The attached link is an example of a finished one. It's in the same block that a family member live and was covered by a large regional builder so guessing everything would of been designed to comply. https://www.zoopla.co.uk/property/3-scraptoft-hall/church-hill/scraptoft/leicester/le7-9tw/31594433/