craig

Do you have a detail? Snapshot of this would be great. Optimal is within the insulation layer. Edited to add thermal modelling of a detail we are currently working on.

Yes Yes but I can't speak for every suppliers products/standard hardware.

Few factors exist, type/loading etc. I have 3 lift and slide doors side by side, spanning 17 metres. Weighing approx 400KG each, sitting directly on top of compacfoam without any issues.

Certificates are usually issued within 2 weeks of a Fensa registered installer installing the windows, 2 months if they are non fensa registered. Have you checked to see if they are Fensa registered? https://www.fensa.org.uk/homeowners enter relevant info requested. If not listed, they are not registered.

Was it Glenn?

They should. Depends on what the package being offered indicates, some may not take this on at all.

Yes they should but that's a light colour to be honest, the suns rays react with the lighter lacquers "burning" it off a lot quicker than darker lacquers. The maintenance on light lacquers (should be) is to maintain them once a year or you will see them degrade a lot quicker and warranties voided. It will be in the warranty information supplied by the manufacturer. The amount of water that these are experiencing would indicate that once a year at a minimum is required. Also visible external hinging, I would be concerned at the lifespan of this, considering the amount of water being experienced on them.

That's unfortunate and not a lot you can do with it now in all honesty. However, I would recommend squirting Illbruck FM330 in the gaps and on the inner side 15mm - 7/12 TP600 compriband. You can't do a lot at the blocks other than trim the compriband. Then over that I would apply ME508 airtightness tape. I would also suggest buying ME902 primer before sticking the airtightness tape onto the blockwork. He has something running up vertically, not sure what type of tape it is but it doesn't look like it is doing anything tbh.

A cracking house and occupants, thank you for your hospitality over the past couple of years and being "my pit stop" for a coffee on my way home.

Needs a multi choice option. Compriband and PU foam, all day long. Anyone thats seals between window and building with silicone, needs a boot in the b*ws. As for no difference in price, sh*te. Compriband is significantly dearer than PU foam, both are significantly dearer than silicone. They’ve marked up significantly on material if they’re doing that.

Last pane of glass I looked to order was in October. 8 weeks we were told from a London glass supplier, ordered from Austria and delivered in 3. New build just at the back of me, have been waiting for windows for a considerable time. Should have been weather tight two months ago, whole build has ground to a halt. Other plot got foundations done, blocks built for lower ground and that’s now ground to a halt.

Only issues that we have experienced, is glass lead times in the UK are a lot longer than anticipated normally.

Every individual pane must be marked. UK supplied glass will be kite marked. European glass will be marked with EN number generally on spacer bar sometimes on glass.

I don’t see why another type of bonding agent wouldn’t work. You won’t have warranty as you haven’t followed the guidelines for assembly.

Primer, prime the area and then the self adhesve tapes will stick. No primer, tapes will peel (even with a mastic).

The problem is that the seal is broken because the door is open. So the handle is taken from pointing directly up to directly down, which engages the wheels and lifts the sash up. No locks engaged and the door can be slid open. It doesn't occur when the door is locked. As it is on a South Westerly elevation and set back as well, wind is coming through the the gaps and the whistle effect is occurring and might even be more prominent because it is setback. It is only resolved by locking the door and engaging the locks, which engages the seal. As discussed with Ian just now, what can be done, is try and put a wind deflector on the frame, preventing the wind driving up the gaps when the door is physically open but not locked.

Yes, each manufacturer will have one and guideline supplied by GGF for example. They will vary slightly but generally they are the same. Not being fitted to factories recommendations, will void warranties. Issue Nick experienced was something else entirely.

I’d love to supply British made but 1: VAT 2: Quality 3: Performance The UK market is still stuck on cheap and cheerful uPVC. Those that are making decent windows are buying in European profiles.

No need to apologise, you win some you lose some. When it’s fair it’s fair. When they (other suppliers) “buy” themselves the work, there isn’t much that can be done. I wish you well with the project and here if you need any help/advice.

You didn’t have the best of experiences Nick and I hold my hands up to that and I apologise. As you know, install team are well gone but to much “faith/trust” was given to them. They let me down, which meant I let you down on numerous occasions. I also let myself down. It will never happen again. It doesn’t always go perfect and when it does go wrong it can go wrong spectacularly. I hope I put things right to a degree, took time to resolve things that’s for sure.

That’s a hard pill to swallow, a couple of caveats but generally we are roughly the same price if not less with Gaulhofer. Also depends on retailer and a couple of other small things. Zyle, is a lot more cost effective but on the other hand. The exchange rate is kicking our butts at this time.

If your steel deflects 7mm max deflection, then do not use a rigid PU foam. 10mm would do but tight, I’d go 20, use a compriband on the head which is compressable. So when it does deflect that deflection is taken by the compriband. You should pick one up with a 10mm to 20mm expansion rating. That basically means 10mm in the roll, expanding to 20mm, so can compress back down by 10mm.

That annoys me, actually really p****s me off. It is their responsibility to check the details with you. Did you give them the defection rate of the steel? Did they give you recommended tolerance? Did they advise what material to use for insulation during installation between head and steel? If sitting directly under the steel, using a solid insulation for example, steel deflects, pushing down on slider. Then only one thing happens, compression on head and operational issues with the slider.

One of my favourite doors @HerbJ stunning colour choice and a brave choice in all honesty.

The tape is purely for handling purposes, it does nothing other than protect during handling. It is not an air seal or anything like that. It’s a pain to remove but it’s not needed and can be the cause of unit failure if left on. I should add that some types of glazing silicon can react with the hotmelt which is why people leave it on as well.