craig

Where are you based exactly? The installer we use is a master German carpenter based in Clackmannanshire , I could give you his details and he could come up with something for you.

You’re thinking of sage glass and it is doable but the risk is with buyer.

Thanks @ToughButterCup

Glazing units will generally come with a 5 or 10 year warranty, older units as mentioned by Mike will with a high degree of probability be supplied without any coating and air filled. So not very efficient. However, glazing units will generally last a considerable period of time. I have not seen any evidence anywhere that a double glazed unit is less likely to fail over a triple glazed unit. It's not generally the glass that fails, it's the bonding (hot melt) around the glass unit that fails.

I'll have a chat with Klaus lol

Not cheap that's for sure but when you have an airtight house, you want a product that does the job. Designed and built specifically for Passive Houses, it is the only properly airtight pet door on the market that I'm aware of. They are that.

Why can't they just be glued onto the glass internally and externally? They do not need a spacer bar behind the glazing bars.

Between £250 and £350 per man per day is the going rate. Any joiner can install a window, however, not always to the manufacturers specifications. That's when arguments about install v's product occur, if anything goes wrong.

If I'm not mistaken, it's an Italian system? I'm thinking Pavanello Serramenti but they may be sticking in my mind because they were chasing me to be a UK distributor for them. Details look a little different but definitely Italian. If removing the front section on the moveable (sliding sash) side), then you're left with a straight edge and what appears to be exposed timber? You need to be able to catch the water that runs down, I'm presuming hardwood if it is timber? If timber, I'd be wanting a small rebate in it (4mm minimum) so that an external alu cill can be fitted and when the water runs down, it doesn't get behind the cill and drains properly.

I’ll get a proper look in an hour or so. First thing that popped into my head was drainage bug let me check after kids are all settled.

Just remember one thing. The frame value is generally always the worst aspect, suppliers will compensate with a good Ug (glass) value to make it better. However, your still left with a poor Uf (frame value). Just because the overall Uw changes as a result, it does not mean your getting a “fantastic” product. Aluminium windows will generally struggle to get frame values below 1 unless your looking at the certified systems.

Don’t be scared to go bold. I had a customer go with pink, at every stage I was asking “are you sure”. It worked very well, to me it’s a bit dark but that's at site visits, after clients have moved in it really works.

It blends in, in my view. @Bitpipe has lived in house for a while, can't remember exactly what colour - think it might have been 7021 both sides but it was grey. Works great for me but I don't live with it but he'd be a good source to answer.

@jack It is a strip, but when insulated underneath also, has a much bigger difference.

More like an insulation material that goes underneath. I’ll get the detail to show you.

You need the dampener, severely reduces the impact but it’s very rare they are supplied Certainly with the cills we supply, not all alu cills with have this option.

What system are you using? If you can let me know I’ll gave a look into it.

@Gus Potter Our certifier/therm guy uses Flixo.

There is and it is the part that is most overlooked. Devil is in the detail. The first image is therm calc for the head, which the jambs were also the same, not the difference is value - the second is far more efficient than the first. The architect wanted the first option for a better flow of ventilation (this is a PH btw) and wanted the exact same on the jambs, we insisted on the detail change to second snapshot for the jambs. I'm waiting on the phpp update but it will be significant. Picture 1 Picture 2

Hi @James1994, did you get anywhere with your supplier?

It’s generally caused by thermal stress, it is reduced by toughening the glass on the middle pane but that also adds costs.

There is still to this day details that come across my desk and I look at them and know instantly, that it has been the architects maybe even the clients last things on their mind. Windows and doors are integral to the thermal envelope and airtight layer. Without them, you just have a big hole in the wall(s) and airtight layer. https://passipedia.org/planning/thermal_protection

The regulations do not state you must have trickle vents, you must have a form of background ventilation and that "can" be buy opening the window for ventilation. It is down to how the regulations are interpreted by the BCO. They shouldn't be, the thermal envelope should always be number 1 on the list and that includes the windows.

30mm to 50mm, no less than 30mm is recommended.

Did the install costs include compriband, airtightness tape? As they aren't cheap, dependant on meterage you'd be looking at somewhere between £600/£1200 on approx.