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craig

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Everything posted by craig

  1. craig
    It’s the same thing, all ground floor windows with laminated glass. Pas24 tells you the laminated glass should be P2A lamination or better.
  2. craig
    I’m not in @AnonymousBosch? two things, one mentioned above by @dpmiller the other is to put a little stopper in place so it doesn’t hit the tap when turning but still allows it to turn a little but also tilt.
  3. craig
    Personally, I would go with timber alu over uPVC (however that is a personal preference).
  4. craig
    Fensa is for replacement windows, all it does is prove your windows have been fitted by a competent person registered with Fensa and you receive a certificate for doing so. Confirming that they have been fitted by a registered installer and fitted to BC standards. The installer, not the manufacturer or supplier are fensa registered. When the supplier installs, they are both supplier and installer. You do not need to be Fensa registered to replace windows in an existing property, it helps but is not essential.
  5. craig
    1: Do not skimp on the thermal envelope. Buy what your budget allows you to and what you like. 2: uPVC is generally more thermally efficient (profile dependant). 3: Aluclad windows in a coastal area are fine, it’s the hardware that takes a battering not the cladding. If possible get a coating applied, otherwise it oxidise and fail. 4: uPVC aluclad are a good choice and you can match them with timber versions fairly easily (manufacturer dependant). 5: Adding a foil internally, is just bringing the uPVC product inline with the cost of timber alu windows. At the end of the day, it’s what you can afford and what you like/want that counts. Shop around, listen to the advice on offer and see what options are available to you.
  6. craig
    All shifting towards SBD as standard, basically boils down to security. Laminated outer pane on ground floor windows. That must resist a physical attack by an opportunist/casual burglar. Doors and windows must be manufactured to a design that has been tested and shown to meet the security requirements of British Standards publication PAS 24 (equivalent EN standard RC2 is acceptable). PAS24 is published by the BSI. PAS 24 provides a method for testing and assessing doors and windows in relation to security. All ground floor and accessible doors must have suitable laminated glass with a security value of P2A or better. Windows do not require laminate glass for PAS24 but must have a locking handle.
  7. craig
    Just use a fixed window, saves a lot of hassle and allow space for glass to be replaced should it need to be. If just using glass, which you can do. You need to factor in glass replacement should it need to be. It’s not that we don’t want to just supply glass and prefer the whole unit, it’s more practical and responsibility falls with the manufacturer/supplier. When it’s just glass, whose responsible when the proverbial hits the fan?
  8. craig
    Yeah straight forward. Cover plate on handle, pull and twist left or right to uncover handle screws. Unscrew handle and remove handle and spindle. On vertical side of door, screw at locking point which connects to the cylinder, remove and pull cylinder out.
  9. craig
    Is it a full cylinder or a half cylinder? Easy to tell, do you have handles inside and out (full cylinder), or inside only (half cylinder). I’d go direct to Internorm with the issue, it’s covered under warranty. However, you “might” have a fight on your hands to prove issue always existed and is a hardware fault. Otherwise, take sliding door handle off, take cylinder out. The cylinder size should be displayed on it. You’ll be happy to pick one up from usual suspects if need be. I might even have one in the office.
  10. craig
    18mm, is the optimum space between panes.
  11. craig
    For Glass, it’s pretty much down to a couple of values and it will be supplied from the usual suspects. I personally look to supply 48mm glass unit, 18mm space between the panes, psi value of .040 or below and argon gas filling. That’s the optimum unit in my view for a 0.5Ug. You can play around with the coatings to vary that Ug. Frame and style wise, it’s down to performance of the system, look/style and functionality. Which is a personal choice.
  12. craig
    The problem is everyone lumps the m2 price for every item, including sliding doors / lift & slide doors, entrance doors e.t.c. Not everyone has the same products or doors for example and over inflates the m2 price for comparisons. It is a good baseline but it’s not perfect.
  13. craig
    Unfortunately Lauren didn’t buy goods, it was a service that was purchased.
  14. craig
    Of course @AnonymousBosch if you would like to pass on my details we’ll see what we can do to help.
  15. craig
    Cavity closer, don't just have the window sitting on 25mm of stone cill and overhang the cavity.
  16. craig
    Your referring to the coating Alex? When you say a bad reaction, what do you mean? Colour clash or the coating causes a reaction/distraction with the colours of the kitchen? Happy to have a chat.
  17. craig
    This may be of interest to you. If your sitting within the opening of ICF, details are floating about here somewhere. I’ll link to them if I can find them.
  18. craig
    Thats just a lack of understanding on thermal bridging and the architect should know better. If he’s making this error, what others are being made.
  19. craig
    For fixings you should always have 1 fixing approx. 150mm from every corner, then every 400mm/500mm. The best fixing straps (lugs) I have seen are Velfac. Standard lugs from the likes of Eurocell are fine. https://www.eurocell.co.uk/sealants-and-fixings/multi-purpose-screws/fixing-cleats
  20. craig
    The electric ones work of a 3 gang switch per window or by remote control/app. The manual ones are a cord pulley system. The electric version can also be fitted to home automation systems. If having external venetian blinds, it’s important to have them designed in at the early stages and allow the additional space allocation. A window will increase in height by a minimum of 150mm due to extra frame extensions required for the concealed housing. i.e a daylight open of 1000mm height, will require a s/o of 1170mm including tolerances, you then render / brick / clad over the front edge of the box. The overall head depth is window frame + box, which is about 200mm to the external finish. Venetians/blinds fitted to the face of the window cannot be hidden and are not as eye pleasing imho.
  21. craig
    Depends on supplier and how much the person is willing to pay for transport. Is it just glass or glass and frame? Double or Triple? Triple we can do 3.25 x 2.8, double would be larger. In lift and slide, 6.5 overall width, 2.8 high. 1 fixed, 1 slide, additional gearing and or electrical operation recommended. Standard T&T windows is a max of 180KG, exposed heavy duty hinging. We can do 6 metre high but need to double check the exact specs on this.
  22. craig
    Let me check if I have anything in the office, might only be 15mm 7/12 that I have but can be doubled up.
  23. craig
    TP600, 30mm width with expansion of 13mm to 24mm will do the job.
  24. craig
    Have a look online, Illbruck TP600, ME500w 110/140 and FM330. Depending on quantity required linear meterage wise, but for 47 windows/doors I’d easily expect a grand. TP600 is 4.3m rolls ME500 is 50m per roll 12 tins of FM330 per box, I’d say 2 boxes
  25. craig
    Don’t be too disheartened. I’ve been involved with certification and the builders have only achieved that figure. Even though they have on site training and everything else required. That’s still a good result, not PH standard but you weren’t building to that level?
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