craig

That's just a cylinder & locking mechanism, all you need to do ask them for emergency danger function and drill protection cylinder and they'll be able to supply it. Doors certified to RC3 will have BSEN: 1627/28/29/30 testing, the suppliers will be able to supply the relevant hardware (i.e. locking mechanisms and cylinders) which will have been tested or should have been tested. They may not have been tested specifically on that door type but not all doors are tested in a range. You have one door tested with the relevant materials and then all of them are deemed to satisfy.

This is a topic that always irks me to be honest, one that invokes heated debated and I'm right you're wrong answers. In my honest opinion, SBD is no better than RC2 - they are both based on EN1627-30 which is the European standard. I have supplied European windows into the UK market for years and one supplier refuses to obtain additional certification (SBD/Pas24) for certifications they already have (EN1627-30). Gravenhill is an example and one that @Visti will confirm. Every single document/test etc. had to be supplied to the insurance company, to be able to use the product they wanted to use. This wasn't that long ago and after PAS24:2016 was introduced and full acceptance of EN1627-30 as equivalent or better. Is RC3 poorer to PAS24:2016? No in my honest opinion - I'd actually say it's better. I'll happily get you a run of the mill window for you, Pas24:2016 certified versus a European window that is RC2 certified (8 point locking, laminated glass & glued into the frame) & (I can pretty much guarantee which window you'll break into first). RC Table below DIN EN 1627 DIN V ENV 1627 (until 09/2011) Resistance time Type of offender / procedure RC 1 N 3 min Components in resistance class 1 offer basic protection against attempted forced entry with physical violence, such as kicking or pulling out. This class comprises only windows with standard glazing. RC 2 N WK 2 without safety glass 3 min Casual thieves use simple tools as well, such as screwdrivers, pliers and wedges, to break open the closed and locked component. Forced entry is supposed to be prevented by other means, for this reason only standard glazing is installed. RC 2 WK 2 3 min Expected burglar type and burglar behaviour correspond to class RC 2 N. The installation of a safety glass according to EN 356 is mandatory. RC 3 WK 3 5 min The habitual burglar uses a second screwdriver and a crow-bar as well to break open the closed and locked component. RC 4 WK 4 10 min The experienced burglar uses sawing and hammering tools as well, such as axes, chisels, hammers and battery-operated drills. RC 5 WK 5 15 min The experienced burglar uses high-performance power tools as well, such as drills, sabre saws and grinders with a maximum wheel diameter of 125 mm. RC 6 WK 6 20 min The experienced burglar uses high-performance power tools as well, such as drills, sabre saws and grinders with a maximum wheel diameter of 250 mm. Secure By Design requirements Alternative accreditation can be demonstrated by appropriately qualified test facilities that are signatories of the EA Multilateral Agreement (EA MLA); such test and certification organisations should take due regard to the UK Police Service Secured by Design Interpretive document for BS EN 1627:2011, BS EN 1628:2011, BSEN1629:2011and BSEN1630:2011 (for products tested and certificated to PAS 24): RC2 is widely accepted as equivalent to PAS:24 https://www.securedbydesign.com/guidance/test-certification-facilities Also important to note, that RC2N no longer exists.

Believe it or not but uPVC are actually better performing that timber alu clad windows, with approx. 5 chambers the frame value is better on a good profile (Internorm, Gaulhofer, Alu plast, Liniar) to name but a few systems.

It is bonkers and I say that as a supplier. There's no end in sight either, that's our manufacturers raw material prices been increased again and that will be the 7th price increase this year alone. Back in July, the timber supplier increased costs by 75%.

I’ll reply here rather than PM. Unfortunately I don’t have anyone local to you and I’m not planning to be in the area until January at the earliest. Install guide is clear on the fixing of sills. Yes it’s a pain the **** to fit the windows once they are fixed but it’s how they should be fitted and what they’re getting paid to do. If they wan’t paid the remaining amount and they will. They’ll put it right, maybe with gritted teeth but they will.

Thanks @Onoff replied via PM he sent but without seeing/knowing all the facts it’s difficult to be critical. I don’t like being critical of others installs unless absolutely necessary or I’ve been called in as an independent “expert” i use the term loosely as I’m still learning the trade every day. However, saying that. There is certainly issues which shouldn’t have occurred. Packers should remain in place as it keeps the frame square. Think heel and toe of glass, frames are the same. From what you can see in pictures, the honest answer is I’d kick my guys in the nuts, apologise to the client and tell them to get it sorted (properly).

No, just to check meets regs and issue certificate but just get on with it as @joe90 says and is also my opinion.

All that FENSA registration means, is that the installer/supplier replacing the windows can self certify that windows meet building regs. You do not need to be FENSA registered to replace, it just means that you need to get the building officer to inspect and certify the work and issue certificate. It's not required but if you go to sell at a later date, the purchaser will want money off if lender puts a retention on for example. Just because the windows meet building regs, doesn't mean you have a good installer.

Well qualified Fensa registered professional installers When we went for registration a few years back, the fensa rep checking us only checked the glass used and a quick visual inspection. We’ve let It lapse and won’t be renewing. Complete waste of time and energy, as long as our installers (sub contractors) are certified to tick the box.

No but building regs requirement.

Foam behind / in front of the DPC, sorry was looking at picture on phone so not a massive screen like the desktop I'm now on. The DPC should be to the other blockwork, to prevent transference to the inside, then insulatated (foamed). What they have done is put the DPC up the inside of the cavity (at least that's what it looks like). It's designed to prevent wet transferring from one porous material to another. Foam is used as an insulator. The foam needs to be in front of the DPC. Was the DPC already in situ before replacing the window or did you put it in during the replacement? How it is shown, appears to show that the cavity is closed with blockwork or is the cavity fully open? A good example Ignore the arrow, it's pointing to issues with the DPC (i.e. there is none when there should be).This is another way to deal with the DPC by folding being the window and then foaming between window and DPC.

No, leave as you’ll create bigger problems. DPC should be bridging the cavity, some will attach to the side of the frame. Your wanting the foam to fill the void.

You’re going to end up with thicker frames than what you have. Your plaster is going to be damaged and will need repaired. The trims are there for a couple of reasons, too much tolerance and used to hide and or hiding crap behind them. Don’t get triple, there’s no point and or benefit to you. Your username indicates your in Scotland so you’ll need trickle ventilation. A decent double glazed system will give you values of 1.2W/m2K (regs 1.6). Triple glazing will give your very little in terms of energy saving. Your house is already leaking like a sieve, double will increase the comfort levels. Check the ERC and the Uf values of the frame, the Ug for the glass, psi value for the spacer (if shown). If they can’t offer 1.2 or minimum 1.4W/m2K for the whole window look at others suppliers. Ensure they are not compensating a rubbish frame with triple glazing for example to get to 1.0/1.2/1.4

It’s for exactly the reason mentioned, vertical DPC is “usually” installed and used to stop water travelling sideways. I’m not a fan of it, as that means if water is getting to the point the vertical DPC is stopping it travel sideways. Then it has to travel somewhere and just shifting the problem rather than preventing the problem (if a water issue exists).

Temperature plays a part in the expansion, you're better buying the belt to keep it rolled tight when not in use.

Leave foam to dry if poss, makes a mess trying to clean when wet.

Sorry, not going to be what you want to hear tbh. Not seeing any issue with the trim / extension on door. Standard profile for door so extra space required hinge side. Unlikely to be a measurement mistake as he obviously ordered with the door. Windows seem to be measured spot on tbh. You can adjust the window size but it does depend on many factors. I think he’s chosen the best option here. If I’m honest, i think you’re seeing something you don’t like but probably could have been explained/discussed with you prior to the order. So that you had enough understanding as to the reasons why.

You need to have a robust extension that can take the weight of someone standing on them. Standard 2mm aluminium profiles are not strong enough, you need to have what is referred to as a balcony profile and 4mm thick. If you google "Archital", they'll be able to help you and should be able to match the colour to your requirements.

Option 2, fill with mortar and level out if you can. I would envisage a problem with the packers otherwise. If you can, you want to minimise movement in it as much as possible. Make sure you pack this cill extension. Yes, that's fine. Yes as well as the width of this gap and what your fitting tolerance is. Compriband (7mm to 12mm expansion for example) is only warranted up to the 12mm it is not warranted after this expansion. OTT for an extension tbh, you don't need to and wasting money. Compriband and PU foam is more than enough (you'd be fine with just FM330). Yes, don't see why not

Cavity closers are not load baring, even the bigblok cavity closers. Do not sit your windows on cavity closers, you’re asking for problems. If need be, outer skin or inner skin or even better, create an 18mm marine ply liner.

Pretty standard design tbh, whether post or glass corner. Most suppliers should be able to assist you.

This may come in handy, a conversion sheet I put together some time ago.

Brush only threshold products, should not be sold in the UK. They should be ashamed of themselves for supplying it. They should be ashamed for allowing the use of this threshold profile. If no other threshold profile exists, then they should not be supplying this product in this climate.

Not with the supplier your using. To get 1.4 with that system is shocking. It means the frame profile is rank rotten and not worth the money. A decent double glazed unit will give you 1.2.

In my honest opinion, no less than a standard window. Remember the poop from a bird would need to remain for a few days for the Hydrophilic coating to do it’s magic. It doesn’t immediately react with organic dirt and then you need to wait for rain, for it to wash away (obviously rain isn’t much of a problem here).