craig

Pretty standard design tbh, whether post or glass corner. Most suppliers should be able to assist you.

This may come in handy, a conversion sheet I put together some time ago.

Brush only threshold products, should not be sold in the UK. They should be ashamed of themselves for supplying it. They should be ashamed for allowing the use of this threshold profile. If no other threshold profile exists, then they should not be supplying this product in this climate.

Not with the supplier your using. To get 1.4 with that system is shocking. It means the frame profile is rank rotten and not worth the money. A decent double glazed unit will give you 1.2.

In my honest opinion, no less than a standard window. Remember the poop from a bird would need to remain for a few days for the Hydrophilic coating to do it’s magic. It doesn’t immediately react with organic dirt and then you need to wait for rain, for it to wash away (obviously rain isn’t much of a problem here).

Self cleaning is a myth, there is no such thing. Self cleaning basically means that material on the glass reacts and degrades but remains in place until. 1: It rains and it washes it away but the glass will still need cleaned. 2: You wash it away.

No it’s not. It happens and some are a lot more visible than others but it’s not the “standard” of toughened glass. Ask for them to take it to GGF.

Here’s the bottom line. Not all of your windows and doors on the ground floor must be laminated. Pas24:2012 which has been superseded by 2016 but both are accepted but SBD are no longer accepting 2012. What does it mean? Ground floor windows should be Pas24 but only if your window is within 400mm of a door, should it be laminated. Otherwise toughened glass is fine. Doors should be Pas24. First floor windows is different, that is down to whether they are easily accessible or not.

Nothing wrong with a splayed reveal, also allows percentage of frame to be hidden. This may be what your after

Try Illbruck AW413 - it’s what I use.

Order of drawings, you shouldn’t wait until kit erected. MBC should be ready within 10 days, windows should be going in then.

If you want to, change the front door only, don’t change anything else. That in my honest opinion, would be a sin.

Prices are likely to rise further with energy price uncertainty to continue. Will they come back down? Probably not.

Just PU foam, you don’t need anything else.

True and it is generally with the first two years and after that settlement and user understanding has occurred. However, you also have to be aware of manufacturers warranties and if the product is not maintained warranties can and will be voided.

General operation check, checking gaskets still look good, hinging oiled etc. Basically a health check.

If you’re not you should be, the information should be supplied with in the O&M manual. The biggest issue from my perspective, isn’t the suppliers/manufacturers not showing or advising and if I’m completely honest. Customers are the biggest problem. You all want quality and as cheap as you can possibly get. You all want low maintenance and long warranty periods but very few and I actually literally mean no one. Is willing to pay for a service package, that allows us to attend and maintain your windows for you and as customers you’re not all doing it. Then it becomes an issue of the supplier/manufacturer when it generally comes down to poor maintenance. I’ll probably piss a few off with the above and not intended but it is what it is. We’ve stopped offering service packages, as it’s a waste of our time. We’ll service your windows within the first year but after that. It’s up to you. Unless I’m on my travels and popping in for a coffee and a catch up. Where I’ll service your windows/doors.

Something wrong, lift and slides are a breeze to operate. Obviously the bigger they are, the more weight you slide but the initial inertia “may’ have been due to the soft closer.

Just bare in mind, that health and safety requirements indicate that mechanical lifting should be used. "If" anything was to go wrong because the risk was not assessed correctly, it will result in the wrath of the HSE. That's why lifting equipment is recommended (installers usually prefer to manually lift, as it saves time and generally not that heavy) & self builds are generally not as strict as commercial. Genie lifts are good but I'm not a fan of the restrictions they present. You need a solid flat ground externally to use them and you need to be very close to the building to utilise them. This is the same with glazing robots (even the offload versions) & why we prefer a telehandler & vacuum attachment. Spider cranes are good, we tend to use them for curtain walling but generally you need to offload the windows and doors which are palletised & we need a telehandler for that anyway and a weeks hire for a telehandler & vacuum sucker is better than the stop/start and repositioning required with a spider crane (it's just slower). Sensible.

Telehandler and MRT4 vacuum sucker from GGR, you’ll need to have hired in equipment insurance or telehandler and slings. Important to understand distance from forks to glass and protecting the glass. One wrong move and you’ve smashed the glass or dropped the unit. If you have balls of steel, man power.

Did you ever resolve this @pocster? It's not as straight forward as some might think but it's not difficult either tbh. You just need to know what you are looking at. The four red are effectively hinge securing screws, you can loosen these to increase/decrease height, then adjust the greeen circle for the height increase/decrease requirement. Tighten the red again. Yellow are compression against the frame, you can increase/decrease this without having to loosen the hinge. The Orange is left / right movement but is actually on the door side of the hinge. If you look closely, you should see the arrows on the hinge (repeat steps for height adjustment).

Pretty standard detail, just check with manufacturers and recommended install details just in case but you’ll be fine.

Biggest pile of s***e I’ve heard in years. It will fade eventually but it can be repainted. *edit: just to add that alu clad should have guarantee of 10 years against fading. If you’re going timber only, consider strongly a hardwood option. Powder coating has a 10 year guarantee - it lasts a hell of a lot longer. Paint finish is not a powder coat finish on timber windows. Alu clad is effectively zero maintenance, alu clad everytime time if budget allows.

Yeah.

Give me a shout, happy to discuss with you. Not sure exactly who you are but got a rough idea. It will be something I can look at.