craig

Reply sent.

Send me your concerns via a PM and I'll gladly have a look at it and supply you with my opinion. I'll need the 1:5 sections drawings, profile drawings, your snagging list and the questions you need answered. I'll tell you based on the information supplied whether you have a point and or your supplier.

Whole window value calculated to EN 10077-1

I've put Building Standards Technical Handbook Scotland April 2021 on my OneDrive for you. It is covered under 4.8.3, it doesn't cover telescopic brush poles for example but you will not encounter any issues. Internally, the same scenario applies, you'll comply.

I would, architect error or install error. Very little thought on the warm line and is going to end up with moisture and possibly mould. Check the 1:5 section drawings for window position. Check if you signed these off, if not put it back onto the architect. If drawings show further inwards. Put this back to the supplier. In a SIPS kit I like to install halfway in the panel or on the outer edge of the panel.

I'm really surprised at this, considering the increases in raw material prices and the fact neither you nor they would have expected it be 2 years before production commenced. Unless they have been produced and have been sitting in storage for 2 years?

Sandstone mastic and you should be fine, just appears that they haven't applied any here.

It should. That picture is not given the full picture if you pardon the pun. It actually looks like a stone cill and the window is sitting on that but not directly and maybe packed up a little. It doesn't look like a stub cill on the window tbh. Just not enough projection but again, not the full picture of what's happening.

Haven't used it nor have experience with it. We usually stick to Soudal or Illbruck products. Yes, it can be used externally.

Something like Silirub LM (colour matched if possible) would do the job.

This is highly likely to be your area of concern. Run a bead of mastic along here, leave it to set and the hose test. Be specific at the location you're testing and don't just spray the door. Do you also have a further out picture, it's difficult to see the full picture from the zoomed in picture.

That's just a cylinder & locking mechanism, all you need to do ask them for emergency danger function and drill protection cylinder and they'll be able to supply it. Doors certified to RC3 will have BSEN: 1627/28/29/30 testing, the suppliers will be able to supply the relevant hardware (i.e. locking mechanisms and cylinders) which will have been tested or should have been tested. They may not have been tested specifically on that door type but not all doors are tested in a range. You have one door tested with the relevant materials and then all of them are deemed to satisfy.

This is a topic that always irks me to be honest, one that invokes heated debated and I'm right you're wrong answers. In my honest opinion, SBD is no better than RC2 - they are both based on EN1627-30 which is the European standard. I have supplied European windows into the UK market for years and one supplier refuses to obtain additional certification (SBD/Pas24) for certifications they already have (EN1627-30). Gravenhill is an example and one that @Visti will confirm. Every single document/test etc. had to be supplied to the insurance company, to be able to use the product they wanted to use. This wasn't that long ago and after PAS24:2016 was introduced and full acceptance of EN1627-30 as equivalent or better. Is RC3 poorer to PAS24:2016? No in my honest opinion - I'd actually say it's better. I'll happily get you a run of the mill window for you, Pas24:2016 certified versus a European window that is RC2 certified (8 point locking, laminated glass & glued into the frame) & (I can pretty much guarantee which window you'll break into first). RC Table below DIN EN 1627 DIN V ENV 1627 (until 09/2011) Resistance time Type of offender / procedure RC 1 N 3 min Components in resistance class 1 offer basic protection against attempted forced entry with physical violence, such as kicking or pulling out. This class comprises only windows with standard glazing. RC 2 N WK 2 without safety glass 3 min Casual thieves use simple tools as well, such as screwdrivers, pliers and wedges, to break open the closed and locked component. Forced entry is supposed to be prevented by other means, for this reason only standard glazing is installed. RC 2 WK 2 3 min Expected burglar type and burglar behaviour correspond to class RC 2 N. The installation of a safety glass according to EN 356 is mandatory. RC 3 WK 3 5 min The habitual burglar uses a second screwdriver and a crow-bar as well to break open the closed and locked component. RC 4 WK 4 10 min The experienced burglar uses sawing and hammering tools as well, such as axes, chisels, hammers and battery-operated drills. RC 5 WK 5 15 min The experienced burglar uses high-performance power tools as well, such as drills, sabre saws and grinders with a maximum wheel diameter of 125 mm. RC 6 WK 6 20 min The experienced burglar uses high-performance power tools as well, such as drills, sabre saws and grinders with a maximum wheel diameter of 250 mm. Secure By Design requirements Alternative accreditation can be demonstrated by appropriately qualified test facilities that are signatories of the EA Multilateral Agreement (EA MLA); such test and certification organisations should take due regard to the UK Police Service Secured by Design Interpretive document for BS EN 1627:2011, BS EN 1628:2011, BSEN1629:2011and BSEN1630:2011 (for products tested and certificated to PAS 24): RC2 is widely accepted as equivalent to PAS:24 https://www.securedbydesign.com/guidance/test-certification-facilities Also important to note, that RC2N no longer exists.

Believe it or not but uPVC are actually better performing that timber alu clad windows, with approx. 5 chambers the frame value is better on a good profile (Internorm, Gaulhofer, Alu plast, Liniar) to name but a few systems.

It is bonkers and I say that as a supplier. There's no end in sight either, that's our manufacturers raw material prices been increased again and that will be the 7th price increase this year alone. Back in July, the timber supplier increased costs by 75%.

I’ll reply here rather than PM. Unfortunately I don’t have anyone local to you and I’m not planning to be in the area until January at the earliest. Install guide is clear on the fixing of sills. Yes it’s a pain the **** to fit the windows once they are fixed but it’s how they should be fitted and what they’re getting paid to do. If they wan’t paid the remaining amount and they will. They’ll put it right, maybe with gritted teeth but they will.

Thanks @Onoff replied via PM he sent but without seeing/knowing all the facts it’s difficult to be critical. I don’t like being critical of others installs unless absolutely necessary or I’ve been called in as an independent “expert” i use the term loosely as I’m still learning the trade every day. However, saying that. There is certainly issues which shouldn’t have occurred. Packers should remain in place as it keeps the frame square. Think heel and toe of glass, frames are the same. From what you can see in pictures, the honest answer is I’d kick my guys in the nuts, apologise to the client and tell them to get it sorted (properly).

No, just to check meets regs and issue certificate but just get on with it as @joe90 says and is also my opinion.

All that FENSA registration means, is that the installer/supplier replacing the windows can self certify that windows meet building regs. You do not need to be FENSA registered to replace, it just means that you need to get the building officer to inspect and certify the work and issue certificate. It's not required but if you go to sell at a later date, the purchaser will want money off if lender puts a retention on for example. Just because the windows meet building regs, doesn't mean you have a good installer.

Well qualified Fensa registered professional installers When we went for registration a few years back, the fensa rep checking us only checked the glass used and a quick visual inspection. We’ve let It lapse and won’t be renewing. Complete waste of time and energy, as long as our installers (sub contractors) are certified to tick the box.

No but building regs requirement.

Foam behind / in front of the DPC, sorry was looking at picture on phone so not a massive screen like the desktop I'm now on. The DPC should be to the other blockwork, to prevent transference to the inside, then insulatated (foamed). What they have done is put the DPC up the inside of the cavity (at least that's what it looks like). It's designed to prevent wet transferring from one porous material to another. Foam is used as an insulator. The foam needs to be in front of the DPC. Was the DPC already in situ before replacing the window or did you put it in during the replacement? How it is shown, appears to show that the cavity is closed with blockwork or is the cavity fully open? A good example Ignore the arrow, it's pointing to issues with the DPC (i.e. there is none when there should be).This is another way to deal with the DPC by folding being the window and then foaming between window and DPC.

No, leave as you’ll create bigger problems. DPC should be bridging the cavity, some will attach to the side of the frame. Your wanting the foam to fill the void.

You’re going to end up with thicker frames than what you have. Your plaster is going to be damaged and will need repaired. The trims are there for a couple of reasons, too much tolerance and used to hide and or hiding crap behind them. Don’t get triple, there’s no point and or benefit to you. Your username indicates your in Scotland so you’ll need trickle ventilation. A decent double glazed system will give you values of 1.2W/m2K (regs 1.6). Triple glazing will give your very little in terms of energy saving. Your house is already leaking like a sieve, double will increase the comfort levels. Check the ERC and the Uf values of the frame, the Ug for the glass, psi value for the spacer (if shown). If they can’t offer 1.2 or minimum 1.4W/m2K for the whole window look at others suppliers. Ensure they are not compensating a rubbish frame with triple glazing for example to get to 1.0/1.2/1.4

It’s for exactly the reason mentioned, vertical DPC is “usually” installed and used to stop water travelling sideways. I’m not a fan of it, as that means if water is getting to the point the vertical DPC is stopping it travel sideways. Then it has to travel somewhere and just shifting the problem rather than preventing the problem (if a water issue exists).