craig

Temperature plays a part in the expansion, you're better buying the belt to keep it rolled tight when not in use.

Leave foam to dry if poss, makes a mess trying to clean when wet.

Sorry, not going to be what you want to hear tbh. Not seeing any issue with the trim / extension on door. Standard profile for door so extra space required hinge side. Unlikely to be a measurement mistake as he obviously ordered with the door. Windows seem to be measured spot on tbh. You can adjust the window size but it does depend on many factors. I think he’s chosen the best option here. If I’m honest, i think you’re seeing something you don’t like but probably could have been explained/discussed with you prior to the order. So that you had enough understanding as to the reasons why.

You need to have a robust extension that can take the weight of someone standing on them. Standard 2mm aluminium profiles are not strong enough, you need to have what is referred to as a balcony profile and 4mm thick. If you google "Archital", they'll be able to help you and should be able to match the colour to your requirements.

Option 2, fill with mortar and level out if you can. I would envisage a problem with the packers otherwise. If you can, you want to minimise movement in it as much as possible. Make sure you pack this cill extension. Yes, that's fine. Yes as well as the width of this gap and what your fitting tolerance is. Compriband (7mm to 12mm expansion for example) is only warranted up to the 12mm it is not warranted after this expansion. OTT for an extension tbh, you don't need to and wasting money. Compriband and PU foam is more than enough (you'd be fine with just FM330). Yes, don't see why not

Cavity closers are not load baring, even the bigblok cavity closers. Do not sit your windows on cavity closers, you’re asking for problems. If need be, outer skin or inner skin or even better, create an 18mm marine ply liner.

Pretty standard design tbh, whether post or glass corner. Most suppliers should be able to assist you.

This may come in handy, a conversion sheet I put together some time ago.

Brush only threshold products, should not be sold in the UK. They should be ashamed of themselves for supplying it. They should be ashamed for allowing the use of this threshold profile. If no other threshold profile exists, then they should not be supplying this product in this climate.

Not with the supplier your using. To get 1.4 with that system is shocking. It means the frame profile is rank rotten and not worth the money. A decent double glazed unit will give you 1.2.

In my honest opinion, no less than a standard window. Remember the poop from a bird would need to remain for a few days for the Hydrophilic coating to do it’s magic. It doesn’t immediately react with organic dirt and then you need to wait for rain, for it to wash away (obviously rain isn’t much of a problem here).

Self cleaning is a myth, there is no such thing. Self cleaning basically means that material on the glass reacts and degrades but remains in place until. 1: It rains and it washes it away but the glass will still need cleaned. 2: You wash it away.

No it’s not. It happens and some are a lot more visible than others but it’s not the “standard” of toughened glass. Ask for them to take it to GGF.

Here’s the bottom line. Not all of your windows and doors on the ground floor must be laminated. Pas24:2012 which has been superseded by 2016 but both are accepted but SBD are no longer accepting 2012. What does it mean? Ground floor windows should be Pas24 but only if your window is within 400mm of a door, should it be laminated. Otherwise toughened glass is fine. Doors should be Pas24. First floor windows is different, that is down to whether they are easily accessible or not.

Nothing wrong with a splayed reveal, also allows percentage of frame to be hidden. This may be what your after

Try Illbruck AW413 - it’s what I use.

Order of drawings, you shouldn’t wait until kit erected. MBC should be ready within 10 days, windows should be going in then.

If you want to, change the front door only, don’t change anything else. That in my honest opinion, would be a sin.

Prices are likely to rise further with energy price uncertainty to continue. Will they come back down? Probably not.

Just PU foam, you don’t need anything else.

True and it is generally with the first two years and after that settlement and user understanding has occurred. However, you also have to be aware of manufacturers warranties and if the product is not maintained warranties can and will be voided.

General operation check, checking gaskets still look good, hinging oiled etc. Basically a health check.

If you’re not you should be, the information should be supplied with in the O&M manual. The biggest issue from my perspective, isn’t the suppliers/manufacturers not showing or advising and if I’m completely honest. Customers are the biggest problem. You all want quality and as cheap as you can possibly get. You all want low maintenance and long warranty periods but very few and I actually literally mean no one. Is willing to pay for a service package, that allows us to attend and maintain your windows for you and as customers you’re not all doing it. Then it becomes an issue of the supplier/manufacturer when it generally comes down to poor maintenance. I’ll probably piss a few off with the above and not intended but it is what it is. We’ve stopped offering service packages, as it’s a waste of our time. We’ll service your windows within the first year but after that. It’s up to you. Unless I’m on my travels and popping in for a coffee and a catch up. Where I’ll service your windows/doors.

Something wrong, lift and slides are a breeze to operate. Obviously the bigger they are, the more weight you slide but the initial inertia “may’ have been due to the soft closer.

Just bare in mind, that health and safety requirements indicate that mechanical lifting should be used. "If" anything was to go wrong because the risk was not assessed correctly, it will result in the wrath of the HSE. That's why lifting equipment is recommended (installers usually prefer to manually lift, as it saves time and generally not that heavy) & self builds are generally not as strict as commercial. Genie lifts are good but I'm not a fan of the restrictions they present. You need a solid flat ground externally to use them and you need to be very close to the building to utilise them. This is the same with glazing robots (even the offload versions) & why we prefer a telehandler & vacuum attachment. Spider cranes are good, we tend to use them for curtain walling but generally you need to offload the windows and doors which are palletised & we need a telehandler for that anyway and a weeks hire for a telehandler & vacuum sucker is better than the stop/start and repositioning required with a spider crane (it's just slower). Sensible.