craig

Adjust the keeps/pins. It appears they aren’t engaging and the pin is hitting the keep and pushing the sash over. Who is the manufacturer? Check the maintenance book on how to adjust the window.

Reynaers SL38 might be a better option, than the 68?

That's the factory/supplier watching their backsides, whether factory treated or not, it is a concern for swelling to occur and operational issues occurring. Which they will not take responsibility for, is it a major issue? No, but it can happen hence the warning.

Vent the slider, I’m fine with that. Open and then drop it down in position #happydays Vent slot in windows 🤬🤬🤬🤬😂😂😂

Thanks, @Thorfun, appreciated & happy to see if we can help @Firsttimer. Buildhub is not the place to do so but if you wish to give us a call or email, I'd be happy to chat.

Get in touch with Archital, they should be able to help you.

Not technically correct, it depends on the drainage situation of the window being used.

You could have the uPVC painted anthracite, cheaper and would look fine if done correctly. Not recommending them, haven’t seen their work but an example https://upvcspraypainters.com/upvc-window-spray-painting/

Not seeing any reason for a larger cill, that’s the correct size stub cill and unless the unit is goosed, I’m not really seeing any reason to replace the unit either?

What's your specification requirements, size, budget.

Wasn’t specifically talking about installers but I hear what your saying. To have a dedicated install teams, you need to be doing a minimum of four installs (new builds) a week (48 to 50 weeks of the year). It doesn’t help 😂

Wouldn’t even cover 2 salaries for a month, it barely cover 1 on £30K PA, including tax, NI pension contributions (employee and employer).

Manufacturer = system (i.e. Reynaers/Schuco/Internorm/Cortizo/Solarlux/Gaulhofer/Rationel etc.). Supplier = supplies these systems direct from the manufacturer. System manufacturer = someone that buys profiles and manufactures the product and sells direct or to retail suppliers. Buying direct from the manufacturer is rare in that most will only deal with suppliers of their products, buying from a system supplier/supplier is more likely the case and you will receive a different price as they have their own overheads/margins. Just because it's the same system (Reynaers for example), doesn't mean the price is going to be the same.

They aint as big as you might think.

TP600 is what you need with Fm330 and ME508, TP654 will not work for a 5mm gap.

Not really but TP654 comes in 58/66/72/77/83/88mm depths, get the size appropriate to the depth of frame being used. The width is dependant on your tolerance allowance, a 10mm tolerance should mean you get 6-15mm. Which basically means that on the roll it is 6mm thick, it will expand to 15mm and still be within guarantee (it will expand past this but without guarantee). If you need 10-25mm then choose this product. 88/10-25 for example is depth, then size on roll and then what it will expand to and be within guarantee.

TP654 is an all-in-one product, the airtightness layer is interwoven. Yes, it is easier to apply and less work and does the same job but a little bit more expensive.

Clearly this window and it is a different coating that has been used.

With TP654, you will not need any FM330 or ME508 😉

They are like everything. External blinds will get dust & debris on them and will need to be maintained. Our recommendation is as follows. Bring the blinds down into the closed position “dark” and wash them with water. Use a garden hose or a steam cleaner, a pressure washer is fine but at its lowest setting. Then use warm water with soap/detergent with a sponge or cloth & clean every slat and in one direction, same method to clean the guide rails. Rinse again after complete clearing with soap/detergent with warm water again. Once a month is recommended (i.e. when the window cleaner is around) but every couple of months is fine.

What is the product reference? I'll see if I can find the relevant information. This document, doesn't have balcony door details, just window details. https://nordan.co.uk/flowpaper/Operations-Manual/index.html?reload=1620723728428#page=98

I agree with your renderer. It might be their standard detail but is it the window manufacturers recommended detail? Needs a flashing to protect and deal with water run off to be honest.

Trickle vents are not operated by the vast majority of people. They are simply not used for their intended purpose. As of June 2022, trickles vents are now required on replacements in England, unless appropriate background ventilation exists.

That's why reading information without knowing what it's saying can be confusing and lead to wrong information being supplied. So basically what that is telling you is the following. "If" you have glazing bars you jump from 0.84W/m2K to 1.2W/m2K, what it it is not telling you is this "Uw values may deviate with the additions of astragal/Georgian bars, 1 bar horizontal + 0.1 Uw, several horizontal bars + 0.2Uw. Glass separating astragal bars (spacers behind the astragal, dividing the glass unit) + 0.4 Uw" .That result although correct, it's also incorrect because it is not given you all of the information and you're jumping to the conclusion that if you add Georgian bars/astragals/feature bars or whatever you wish to call them, they kill the u value. They don't. What impacts the u value (overall Uw) - is breaking the glazing unit up from 1 unit, into several units by using spacer bars behind the Georgian bars. It's incorrect to say that it's the Georgian bars that are solely responsible.

They don’t kill the u value, they impact it certainly but they don’t kill it. They actually help with overheating & it depends on whether the bars have a spacer or not between the bars.