craig

They’ll cut it off, nothing to worry about.

You external cills will connect to this but on the other picture, the compriband (black band bottom) is far too high and really shouldn’t be visible, even at this stage of the install.

This appears to be the recessed section, we call transport bead.

Do they have a plastic rail that sits recessed back from the front face of the window and recessed from the inside? It should be about 30mm high.

Absolutely not, they’ve f***ed up - it happens, we all do it and we all do our best to prevent it but that’s what’s happened based on the picture. You can see daylight bottom right. Either the surveyor has f***ed up or it has been the estimator/order processor. They have forgotten to add the 30mm transport strip that your internal cill butts up to and external cill connects to. I’d like to see more internal and external pictures to give a definitive answer. However, on first glance they’ve f***ed up and I’d be expecting this to be addressed.

It depends, theres so many that can make good quality and bad. A lot that cannot make the triple glazed units. Clayton Glass John Knight glass A couple of good suppliers.

It’s also a good sound insulator.

Nothing, exact same as aluminium.

Compriband is an airtight/watertight seal. Putting it on the face of the window (alu clad), immediately takes out the airtight aspect (90% of the time, as it is system dependent). Compriband should be on the frame, against the reveal (it is normally on side of frame but can be on the front of frame against the check reveal). Externally, I would always recommend the use of a render stop bead.

It's not common, to be honest, but yes, some do (we used to), the reality was that most are financing via savings and or self-build projects and we didn't require the finance option.

To compare is to basically refer to each of the products being offered and then cross-reference them. There is not specific formula or website etc, that would do that but in essence, what you're looking for is the following. Air Permeability: EN 1026, EN 12207 Water Tightness: EN 1027, EN 12208 Wind Resistance: EN 1221, EN 12210 Wind Load (resistance to frame deflection): EN 1221, EN 12210 To help decipher the documents you'll no doubt receive or have, the tables below should help. What I recommend is in exposed locations, where wind and driving rain can be above average, doors would be outward opening, and windows would always have a static mullion in the centre (no French door style windows). Aluminium inline sliding doors in exposed locations should be reviewed carefully as they are generally brush seals and not gasket seal. Wind Class Comparison wind load Pa= N/m2 Wind Speed m/s Wind Speed km/h Beaufort 0 0 0 0 0 1 300 22 80 9 2 450 27 100 10 3 700 34 120 12 4 1000 41 150 13 Wind Speed Wind Load Beaufort Scale* m/s km/h mph Pa kN/m2 Number Description 0,5 2 1 0,2 0,000 0 Calm 1 4 2 0,6 0,001 1 Light air 2 7 4 2,5 0,003 2 Light breeze 3 11 7 5,6 0,006 2 Light breeze 4 14 9 10,0 0,010 3 Gentle breeze 5 18 11 15,6 0,016 3 Gentle breeze 6 22 13 22,5 0,023 4 Moderate breeze 7 25 16 30,6 0,031 4 Moderate breeze 8 29 18 40,0 0,040 4 Moderate breeze 9 32 20 50,6 0,051 5 Fresh breeze 10 36 22 62,5 0,063 5 Fresh breeze 11 40 25 75,6 0,076 6 Strong breeze 12 43 27 90,0 0,090 6 Strong breeze 13 47 29 105,6 0,106 6 Strong breeze 14 50 31 122,5 0,123 6 Strong breeze 15 54 34 140,6 0,141 7 Near gale 16 58 36 160,0 0,160 7 Near gale 17 61 38 180,6 0,181 7 Near gale 18 65 40 202,5 0,203 8 Gale 19 68 42 225,6 0,226 8 Gale 20 72 45 250,0 0,250 8 Gale 21 76 47 275,6 0,276 9 Strong gale 22 79 49 302,5 0,303 9 Strong gale 23 83 51 330,6 0,331 9 Strong gale 24 86 54 360,0 0,360 9 Strong gale 25 90 56 390,6 0,391 10 Storm 26 94 58 422,5 0,423 10 Storm 27 97 60 455,6 0,456 10 Storm 28 101 63 490,0 0,490 10 Storm 29 104 65 525,6 0,526 11 Violent storm 30 108 67 562,5 0,563 11 Violent storm 31 112 69 600,6 0,601 11 Violent storm 32 115 72 640,0 0,640 11 Violent storm 33 119 74 680,6 0,681 12 Hurricane 34 122 76 722,5 0,723 12 Hurricane 35 126 78 765,6 0,766 12 Hurricane 36 130 80 810,0 0,810 12 Hurricane 37 133 83 855,6 0,856 12 Hurricane 38 137 85 902,5 0,903 12 Hurricane 39 140 87 950,6 0,951 12 Hurricane 40 144 89 1000,0 1,000 12 Hurricane 41 148 92 1050,6 1,051 12 Hurricane 42 151 94 1102,5 1,103 12 Hurricane 43 155 96 1155,6 1,156 12 Hurricane 44 158 98 1210,0 1,210 12 Hurricane 45 162 101 1265,6 1,266 12 Hurricane 46 166 103 1322,5 1,323 12 Hurricane 47 169 105 1380,6 1,381 12 Hurricane 48 173 107 1440,0 1,440 12 Hurricane 49 176 110 1500,6 1,501 12 Hurricane 50 180 112 1562,5 1,563 12 Hurricane

Yes, 2 x 6mm glass panes and lamination 1.5mm (easiest way to explain), 13.5mm overall - that glass unit is laminated.

Dropped you a message with number for installer, he’ll help ya and it won’t be £1,750 👍 Have you ordered yet? Speak with him on measurements, I’d be lookibg for 5mm all around on a brick opening like you have tbh. That’s enough for a 3 to 5mm Compriband or a nice mastic bead.

Where are you based? I can recommend some installers that will install only for you (location dependent), if you’re stuck.

Look around. Rationel and Velfac both owned by Dovista, pushed by MBC but not necessarily the right choice for you. Solarlux are sliding doors, bifolds, winter-gardens and not comparable to the afore mentioned.

I’d CT1 it in place if there wasn’t a screw fixing. They problem he’d have is movement of the building/window.

Yeah, it’s a good option if he has the space for it. I think at 20mm the window at 90-degree open is going to be a bit tight. 10 to 15mm overlap would be ideal in this situation.

It’s an insurance thing, policy should be checked regarding lockable windows and doors. They can void any insurance claim for break ins/stolen items as a result. One of the biggest cartels going and they’ll take any reason not to pay out.

To the external wall then up into the frame, it’s going to be a bit of a ballache tbh. Something that should have been requested and pointed out to you tbh, for the reason mentioned.

The first question is there appears to be no cill extension at the bottom of the window. Where is the cill extension, was this offered with the windows or was it offered without. If without, was it because the window is face drained or are the windows bottom drained? If bottom drained, then how is the external cill connected to expel the water or is the stone cill being used? You'll know if it's face drained, as it will have slots on the frame externally and cover caps over the slots. If the cill extension was present, then the window sits up 30mm approx. and you don't have the issue but you are where you are. Take of the bottom brackets, fit an L bracket instead to the outer wall and you're not bridging the cavity tying back to the inner wall. You'll pick up the below brackets in Screwfix Secondly, ground floor, where's the lockable handle on the window? It should have one, you'll need lockable handles for your home insurance to be valid unless this is an escape window. You should have approx. 20mm of the frame all around to overlap for finishing, the less the better as you're going to be tight for tolerances.

Having a look over the topic, need to ascertain what the problem is and the end question and will come back to it later today.

Looks fairly decent from the pictures, care to mention the manufacturer? I can check the details and let you know what I think based on those?

Yes but it's not as straight forward as you may think, an idea of what would need to be done below and would need to be surveyed. Traveling to and from project Delivery (whether delivered direct of from manufactuer or collected from them) Offloading Setting out 3 windows a day, fully finished = 4 days approx. x 2 people removal of existing windows Installing new windows Making good internally Making good externally Notifying building control (i.e. if Fensa required) Disposal of old windows Tools Knowledge Experience Installation Warranty That's less than we'd charge to be honest, that would just about cover our labour charges.

Not sure I have heard of them tbh, they look decent enough Uw as low as 1.2W/m2K would indicate not a fantastic frame value but a fairly decent frame value but only offering double glazing. They are owned by https://www.a-w-s.co.uk who I have heard of and they own a couple of brands and use decent profiles. I can’t comment on them as I don’t really know them but I would say you appear to be in decent hands.

Yeah, that should work fine, just be careful to not go too deep and nick the glass. They should be easy enough to come off.