craig

Triple glazing could be as low as 24mm 4/6/4/6/4 (commonly double of course), but it would vary from 36mm (4/12/4/12/4) but generally averaging 48/54mm.

Straps are straight forward, fix to side of window (150 from corner vertically/horizontally) and then every 400/600mm. Fix back to inner leaf and you’re good. Straps you’ll get in Screwfix or similar. It’s likely you won’t need them but better to be prepared just in case.

Pretty much these days yes, you may need to chop back cill/plasterboard to allow you to sit the window in the same position. You might find that you might not be able to screwfix to the brickwork and might need to use straps, which will result in you needing to cut space in the plasterboard to allow you to fix back and then make good.

Remove from the external side. It's a dummy sash. It's externally beaded, remove beads to access the glass, remove the glass and then you should likely find screws through the frame into the brick work.

Thanks, I'm writing our own one at the moment in excel purely for our benefit, as getting these calcs can be a nightmare at times. You'd think that by looking at it but some of these programs are still stuck in the 80s 😉😂

@JohnMo Do you mind me asking what program that is?

I use https://skyciv.com/wind-load-calculator/ and https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/wind-load / https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/air-density I tend to enter the data into skyciv, then obtain the m/s and enter the m2 of the unit and assess the glass and unit requirements based on those results. I do have a program being built specifically for this but at the moment this is what we use. It is then for your SE to check this data and sign off (in Scotland it is becoming more and more common that is information is being requested for form Q). The glass size should be within the sizes defined these tables. Although it shows double, it only refers to the inner and outer panes in triple glazed units.

As far as I'm aware, this is a dry sealed system (gasket) and not a wet sealed system. I've attached a snapshot from the YouTube video for this product.

I know it can be done and it will not compromise the existing frame, we’ve done this ourselves a few times (with Internorm and Gaulhofer). I know you’ll get the answers you’re looking for but the cost to do so may be the stumbling block.

This is essentially a balcony window, it has standard window hardware and not a multipoint locking system. I'm rather surprised they said they didn't have anything as it's basically a French door, you'll have a lever to open the secondary window. A French door is the same thing, just slightly bigger frames on the sashes. It can be changed, it's a bit of a ballache but it can be done but it does mean you need new sashes and someone with a bit of knowledge on how to do it. I can gaurantee they'll say it can't be done but it can.

Should be fine.

There’s not much you can do here tbh. A good mastic seal is the way forward.

Great to hear it was resolved. It’s an art removing timber beads on timber windows, you will inevitable bruise the wood due to the leverage required but you do need to take care and not go in all gung ho.

Forget it to be honest, you really need to consider several factors. 1: How the window is installed, a higher dB rating on the glass is pointless if the installation is not looked at properly. I recommend compriband 7/12 and 20mm wide to assist with the noise reduction. Glass can be changed, the installation is harder to do. 2: The type of noise is important, is this road traffic noise and pedestrian noise? It may not necessarily be travelling through/around the windows, but through the ground and up for example.

It will make many window manufacturers and suppliers up their game or go out of business (a good thing). They really need to up their game, we have a lot of catching up to do.

Based on that information see attached (screenshot below). Buildhub-Garald.pdf

Send an email, unusual as usually they speak decent English. ”proszę o arkusz danych technicznych szkła użytego w zamówieniu 123456. Jeśli arkusz danych nie jest dostępny. czy możesz potwierdzić grubość szkła dla każdej szyby, zastosowany gaz i procent, a także zastosowaną niską powłokę. Dziękuję” change 123456 to the order number. ”please may I request the glass data sheet for the glass used within order 123456. If the data sheet isn't available. can you confirm glass thickness for each pane, the gas used and percentage, in addition the lowe coating used. thank you”

Climaplus is from the Planitherm range of coatings from Saint Gobain and I believe it's from Planitherm One range, there's a specific way of referencing the spacer to determine origin, manufacturer, coating, date of unit being made and production run, bath number etc. and most of it is useless to the end user and not important. Simple answer to the question, is speak with supplier/manufacturer and ask them to supply you the glass data sheet. The can easily supply this from the glass supplier or run this through Calumen to give you the answers. If not, ask them for the glass thickness, spacer bar size, overall unit depth, gas used and the coating applied and I'll give you the answers you're looking for.

You’d think eh 😂 What’s wrong with designing in some compac foam and sit your windows/doors on that, should be fine to do that.

In this instance, not really, FENSA/CERTASS are about self certifying replacement windows with building control. GGF would be the ones to look at and if he is registered with them but, I would be looking at this with the installer/manufacturer. Where the water is shown, is not necessarily where it is coming in from.

Spoke with them about retailing, great window and values but I couldn’t justify the price bracket. Prices are astronomical but you get what you pay for, best window on the market tbh (potentially). The market for their product here in UK is pretty small.

uPVC can and will perform better but it depends on the profile (how man chambers etc.) - not all uPVC profiles will be better than timber aluminium windows. Just to let you know, the test performed was using a 44mm glazing unit, using 4/16/4/16/4 glass/spacer and Krypton filled gas. You will receive a different performance if that glass was Argon filled and I would suspect a Ug value of 0.64 or thereabouts and a Uw value of approx. 0.85 / 0.9Uw possibly higher.

It's not always 100% possible and sometimes better to replace from the external side (brick to brick for example) but we'll still aim to remove and replace from the inside, especially if 1st floor.

Yes, we always replace from the inside.

Overall (average between all windows/doors), no. You have to take it in context. What is the PHPP saying, what is your heating demand, what is you air exchange etc. A window is tested at 1230w x 1480h to obtain the results in the certificate, smaller windows are generally a higher Uw than that tested, larger will generally be lower (more glass than frame, is better than more frame less glass). I wouldn't say they are useless, as there are so many other factors to consider.