Andeh

Thanks dpmiller, that's a really good idea and one we should have tried!! On that train if thought, also setting all the time periods during the day to force the boost to trigger during the day and monitor that... See if it kicks the random night boost into behaving itself. That being said, I spent an hour replacing the pcb they sent over this morning, hoping that it resolves it! Not changed any settings other then low flow during day and V high boost. Also not connected any of the external switches. See how it goes over the next week then will start resetting it up or see if anything kicks the boost in when it should have.

Thanks! Having turned it off for 30mins and turned it on again, all seems fine with it and it's generating a normal amount for this time of the morning.

Inverter has been off for 20mins,just turned it on and all is fine! Generating again, but still odd! I have replaced both led bulbs, one had come back to life (other did this before it fully failed) but when I replaced then the 'working one' was very warm. Not too hot to touch but 'this is quite hot for a LED'. I haven't replaced a bulb for donkeys so not sure if it's normal for LED spots? Edit... The other bulbs in the light fitting are just as war.!

These thoughts had crossed my mind!

Also don't over look the possibility plant rooms can be noisy & directly over a bedroom could cause annoyances!

Woke up to see the inverter acting like the below, doesn't seem positive! It's under warranty, and 3 months old, but thought I'd ask whilst the shop is closed over the weekend!

We have two hanging IP65 lights in our bathroom. One of the bulbs started flickering & then over the course of a week failed. I put it down to random bad luck & made a note to replace it. A week later the other one in the room has gone the same way. For bulbs that have worked fine for the last 3 months, and should work for 50,000 hours.... then both died strikes me as odd! We have the same light fitting in several other areas, with the same bulb that are fine. Just random luck? or something else I could check?

Humidity is first thing I checked and it was pretty normal. The c3 also signifies it is triggered by a clock/timer... Even though none is actually set!

Hi All, I thought a posted a thread but cant find it, but it might have been a post which I can't find. Since our unit arrived, it seems it has a random 'boost activation' so far only observed at night. On screen it displays a ' c3 ' in the bottom right corner of the digital external display - but the main unit just shows a 'boost activation'. There is no way to turn it off, pressing the boost button does nothing. Vent Axia have said the ' c3 ' is a timed activation, though despite multiple checks (incl a video going through them all) that all times are set to 00:00 00:00 per 3 time section as per default. Night boost is OFF, timed boosts are OFF etc. It doesn't occur every night, but does seem to occur on a tues/wed evening and again on a Sunday early morning - generally between 1am and about 3am. Vent Axia have had me reset it, check it, reset again, triple check everything etc and it has made no difference. They are now sending me a new PCB board to swap out. I wanted to just flag this to any other Vent Axia owners, as their tech help claim they've never seen this occurring before.... but I can only thing this is some sort of software glitch or bug that is triggering it 'behind the scenes'. Anyone ever heard of or come across similar? Cheers,

The large disk is your vent (blow), the small inset disk one is your extract (suck). Also the paint scratches very easily... So handle them with care.

Nod, with all due respect, I think you need to provide more clarity on your context. I believe you did a HUGE amount of the work yourself and are in the trade, so made considerable savings vs the rest of us who rely on trades for the work and approach it from an outsider point of view. OP, depending on a huge amount of variables in current market £2000 psqm for a 1st fix shell may still be ambitious! Esp as you need VAT, knock throughs, and what you might find as you start extending etc. Precovid I'd have been very sure you'd be fine, but the last few years have really made a mess of the construction market with demand, material prices and a smaller labour pool to play with.

Push the grey bit in and scim up to it so it flush with finished ceiling, then the cap just screws in tight. The foam you will see on the back of the white suck/blow plates compress against your paint work. Screwing the suck/blow plates on takes a bit of faff to get the hang of it, line up the prongs with the grooves to help. I had exactly the same confusion!!

Bedroom Mezzanines, great fun for the kids!

Considered a flexible adhesive or equivalent? If its cracked & taken the strain out of the slab it shouldn't move much more?

I would be tempted to cover it all in a layer of duct tape or equiv, should you detect dampness in the floor will make it easier to chisel out and inspect without the screed stuck to the pipe and fitting.

We were fortunate we started 9 months sooner then expected, but also massively unfortunate.... That we lost 9 months of planning and organising! We had to make a lot of rush decisions, and generally got away with it but there was some hefty bills as we "designed it in flight".

Welcome! We did exactly the same thing 3 years ago. Went from a large extension all the way through planning 12 months of iterations, until one of the builders had a cancellation so needed a project to fit a gap... But would only rebuild it as felt extension would unveil too many headaches. Went from a 1970s timber frame bungalow to a large high spec ultra modern one! So pleased we rebuilt and not extended! Been an emotional journey, but worth it.

Pressure test it again as well! Leave pressured for 24 hours. Any ideas how it got damaged? They are very sturdy pipes.

Thanks JohnMo - and I don't disagree! I'm just trying to ascertain what i could do with my installation as is to get some use out of it, whilst not ideal running towel rails/garage radiators, I am only trying to run them for a very limited time frame so cost isn't an issue (ie a few hours one weekend to boost the garage rads/take chill off the air when im working in there is inefficient....but not ineffective). Sadly I was not guided very well by our installers when I asked for these things ie towel rails...and he plumbed them in vs electric ones or heating in the garage for a future grannie annex...should have looked at A2A I think -vs- him just sticking in a couple of big rads. To then kick me again, I was charged extra for things like the zone valves as recommended by them....only to now find none of it seems to work full stop! I am now better informed (thanks to this forum) on the basics/good working practise for ASHPs, which is how 99% of the use will be managed (one big zone, low flow temps etc) I just want to see if there is a way I can get some use out of what I have, as opposed to having nothing from it.

Just a hope that it is possible, for those that have UFH downstairs (Zone 1?) then Radiators upstairs (Zone 2?) I imagine this is not unheard of? If DHW can be ran at 50degrees, then I would like to think it is possible to get that sort of flow to one of the output zones?

Morning all! With a joules preplumbed GEN6 system, with zone 1 and 2 on UFH and zone 3 as towel rails.... I presume you should be able to set two different heating temps ie 35degrees for UFH and 50degrees for radiators? Our towel rails are on a separate zone to the zone 1 and zone 2 for our UFH loops... I would like them to be boosted to 50degrees vs what looks to be a 37degree temp they are set to currently. I tried running the towel rails today, and the outlet temp hit 37degree for about 10mins then shut off (short cycling?).... But I'd like it to do this but at 50degrees... I don't think joules have commisioned my system it up correctly like this though per 37deg outlet temp. Short cycling i can live with, as towel rails would be boosted to 50 degrees for 15mins via a timer programmer then shut off, to give the towels some warmth /finish drying them as the rails cool down to ambiant. So just asking for advice on menus to set the zone 3 temp different to the zone 1 and 2! Thanks

+1 to sticking with a wired system. I had evohome before which was flaky due to low signal and awkward pairing techniques.

Sorry, not sure how much this helps but this is how it is plumbed into the Joules ASHP.... pics above shower the 3 x zone valves for the rads/Towel rails...

Thank you for this suggestion, my non electrician head sees the logic in this, and I guess it's the sort of thing I'd like to achieve.... Just playing that back in my layman's view of it... I presume you mean thermostats calling for heat on their respectively zone valve, but with the zone valves wired in parallel when one calls for heat and actuates, it shuts the other off? If neither call for heat, would that mean both shut off though? Welcome others thoughts on the possibility of this working? Electrician back on Thurs and Fri for last time so would like to throw a few ideas at him! Thank you

Yep sadly we've moved in to the now-completed house, so are stuck with what we put on the drawings, which trades followed to the letter only to then look blankly when I asked them to show me how it worked.