Andeh

I would be tempted to cover it all in a layer of duct tape or equiv, should you detect dampness in the floor will make it easier to chisel out and inspect without the screed stuck to the pipe and fitting.

We were fortunate we started 9 months sooner then expected, but also massively unfortunate.... That we lost 9 months of planning and organising! We had to make a lot of rush decisions, and generally got away with it but there was some hefty bills as we "designed it in flight".

Welcome! We did exactly the same thing 3 years ago. Went from a large extension all the way through planning 12 months of iterations, until one of the builders had a cancellation so needed a project to fit a gap... But would only rebuild it as felt extension would unveil too many headaches. Went from a 1970s timber frame bungalow to a large high spec ultra modern one! So pleased we rebuilt and not extended! Been an emotional journey, but worth it.

Pressure test it again as well! Leave pressured for 24 hours. Any ideas how it got damaged? They are very sturdy pipes.

Thanks JohnMo - and I don't disagree! I'm just trying to ascertain what i could do with my installation as is to get some use out of it, whilst not ideal running towel rails/garage radiators, I am only trying to run them for a very limited time frame so cost isn't an issue (ie a few hours one weekend to boost the garage rads/take chill off the air when im working in there is inefficient....but not ineffective). Sadly I was not guided very well by our installers when I asked for these things ie towel rails...and he plumbed them in vs electric ones or heating in the garage for a future grannie annex...should have looked at A2A I think -vs- him just sticking in a couple of big rads. To then kick me again, I was charged extra for things like the zone valves as recommended by them....only to now find none of it seems to work full stop! I am now better informed (thanks to this forum) on the basics/good working practise for ASHPs, which is how 99% of the use will be managed (one big zone, low flow temps etc) I just want to see if there is a way I can get some use out of what I have, as opposed to having nothing from it.

Just a hope that it is possible, for those that have UFH downstairs (Zone 1?) then Radiators upstairs (Zone 2?) I imagine this is not unheard of? If DHW can be ran at 50degrees, then I would like to think it is possible to get that sort of flow to one of the output zones?

Morning all! With a joules preplumbed GEN6 system, with zone 1 and 2 on UFH and zone 3 as towel rails.... I presume you should be able to set two different heating temps ie 35degrees for UFH and 50degrees for radiators? Our towel rails are on a separate zone to the zone 1 and zone 2 for our UFH loops... I would like them to be boosted to 50degrees vs what looks to be a 37degree temp they are set to currently. I tried running the towel rails today, and the outlet temp hit 37degree for about 10mins then shut off (short cycling?).... But I'd like it to do this but at 50degrees... I don't think joules have commisioned my system it up correctly like this though per 37deg outlet temp. Short cycling i can live with, as towel rails would be boosted to 50 degrees for 15mins via a timer programmer then shut off, to give the towels some warmth /finish drying them as the rails cool down to ambiant. So just asking for advice on menus to set the zone 3 temp different to the zone 1 and 2! Thanks

+1 to sticking with a wired system. I had evohome before which was flaky due to low signal and awkward pairing techniques.

Sorry, not sure how much this helps but this is how it is plumbed into the Joules ASHP.... pics above shower the 3 x zone valves for the rads/Towel rails...

Thank you for this suggestion, my non electrician head sees the logic in this, and I guess it's the sort of thing I'd like to achieve.... Just playing that back in my layman's view of it... I presume you mean thermostats calling for heat on their respectively zone valve, but with the zone valves wired in parallel when one calls for heat and actuates, it shuts the other off? If neither call for heat, would that mean both shut off though? Welcome others thoughts on the possibility of this working? Electrician back on Thurs and Fri for last time so would like to throw a few ideas at him! Thank you

Yep sadly we've moved in to the now-completed house, so are stuck with what we put on the drawings, which trades followed to the letter only to then look blankly when I asked them to show me how it worked.

Sorry to bump am old thread, but can you set the Samsung to output two different heating temps ie 35degrees for UFH and 50degrees for radiators? Our towel rails are on a separate zone to the zone 1 and zone 2 for our UFH loops... I would like them to be boosted to 50degrees for 15mins before shower time then shut off, to warm the towels and/or speed up the drying of them. I tried this today, and the outlet temp hit 37degrees then after about 15mins shut off (short cycling?).... But I'd like it to do this but at 50degrees... I don't think joules have set it up correctly like this though? So just asking for advice on menus to set the zone 3 temp different to the zone 1 and 2! Thanks

Just a shot in the dark if anyone has any ideas? Worse case I will just use the manual circuit isolators plumber installed to manually shut off flow to garage if we want towel rails, and then do the same for towel rails when we want to use garage. Garage thermostat is wasted then, but can blank it until/if we ever use it as a grannie annex (and accept we lose the towel rails), and just use a timer to control the towel rails. (Until then we'll use towel rails for a 30min timed cycle to warm towels each even to prevent short cycling.)

Bathroom alcoves with lights inside, adds a real nice feature to bathrooms and can be done cheaply if designed in! Higher and wider doorways for main rooms.

Thanks Matt, is that with the intermediate switch? As that's the one in the critical location to make it work for us? Any wiring diagrams to articulate what you mean please? Thanks

Pics of what It looks like.... You can see the top pipe above heating zone 1 and heating zone 2 (from the joules controller) goes down and splits into the two feed to rads and towel rails, with the 2 zone controllers in line with each. Wiring for these zone valves disappears into the controller. I suspect wired together so they both open and close together? But then I have a thermostat in the garage, which I assume controls this circuit. Electrician didn't say he was planning on wiring a timer for the towel rails... But I don't know how this would interact with the garage stay (other then double control it??)

We have 3 large towel rails on large pipe runs, but short cycling is a risk. They'd only ever be used for a burst of warmth to warm towels as anything more and we'd over heat the rooms. The rads in the garage are significantly over sized. We had an electrician & plumber that were all to happy to fit first, charge us then ask questions later & suggest what we did was daft....this being the example of over complicated plumbing that the plumber never thought to educate us on (ie charged for all the pipes, zone valves and fitting.... Then declared he doesn't think it will work). Wish I'd found build hub in time....!! We do run weather compensation on Samsung Gen6 controller. Ambition is UFH is all individually zoned per room BUT controlled as two big zones (basically two sides of a large bungalow, with a small central entrance hallway) - bedrooms kept slightly cooler (19 degs ish) then the kitchen/lounge areas (21 degs ish). Just seeing if there is way of controlling the circuits individually off the single joules "3rd output".

Thanks Tony! Please see attached photos of the three switches. All work as manual "on" over rides.

We had a suspect leak in our Sika Trocal membrane, and the team turned up an electrical device where they wet the roof ( i think, cant remember if it needed to be wet or dry) and used a sort of electrical handheld roller to go over all the joins. Something about water 'leak route' making the electrical circuit which made leak finding pretty reliable & quick even on large roofs with lots of joints. It was over a year ago so i cant remember the details, but I suggest a leak detecting specialist in your area would know of this tool & if it would work for you? Telclad were the company we used & a helpful bunch, Lewis was our main guy who used the device...I only saw it for about 10mins before work, then we found the leak around a skylight through other means - not enough flashing and water was rushing don the roof & up the skylight and in.

As part of our property we specced UFH in two zones....then towels rails, and separate radiators in the garage (for a future potential grannie annex/working in the garage in the winter - garage is insulated) - so 4 circuits that all teminate in the plant room, each with their own zone value. The 2 x UFH zones are plumbed off the ASHP outputs 1 and 2, then the 3rd output feeds a pipe which splits into the towel rails & garage rads via a sort of split pipe, then each has its own zone value zone valve on it (not wired up right now). What I expected was for the towel rail circuit & garage radiators circuit to be on two separate loops (as they are), with the ability to control them individually. We have a stat in the garage (grannie annex...) and then I asked for a timer for the towel rads. Builder/his team are scratching their heads & don't think it can be done, Joules arn't being overly interested and just 'suggest' their system only support 3 zones and therefore towels & garage must be on one. I cant help but think there must be a way for each of the 2 zone values (rads + garage) to independently open 'their circuit' and call for heat, for the ASHP's 3rd output to release the heat and down the right circuit it goes?! Does anyone know of work around where the zone value for the Towels & garages can independently call for heat, without both actuating? (other then manually isolating them) thanks!

If trades were trusted, reliable and did their job first time.... This forum would be a bloody quiet corner of the Internet!!!!

Thanks Tony, have you ever come across an automatic intermediate switch? Unfortunately he can be patchy on these finishing details...... Hence desire to try and avoid using him other then this last headache I'm trying to work through!

We are moving in & I am stuck with what I've got - garage is boarded so cables all hidden. I over complicated it and just trying to find a reasonable middle ground now I will probably pay electrician to disconnect one of the switches to step in the right direction (2 manual switches & PIR), but fundamentally I get 90% of what i want to achieve with an automatic switch replacing the one inside the hallway! Just one that turns itself off after 10mins....

Yes, that would be the worst case scenario.... but having paid to have the PIR put in & it being useful when you drive into the garage I would rather try and find a way of replacing the 'dumb' switch with a smart one. The concept is: PIR is for when you drive into the garage at night & the lights come on automatically for you, you then walk into the house & lights turn themselves off [saves people forgetting to turn the lights off as they walk into the house] Or for when you walk into the garage from the house (PIR turns lights on), get in the car & drive off....the lights turn off automatically as it detected you when it came in. [saves people forgetting to turn lights off as they drive off] The switch it for manually over riding it should I be working under the car or equiv! What I didn't account for is the PIR doesnt detect you until you have walked a metre or two into the garage, which means we end up hitting the switch as we walk from the hallway into the garage to avoid falling down the step. Hence seeing if there is an auto switch (ie hit it once & it turns itself off after ?mins) that could replace the attached image switch?

Ufh is great for drying the room out after a shower, otherwise through the winter you can find the floor is permanently damp!