Andeh

Ask for the cost to install 3 phase vs single phase!

We are with EDF, after previously supplier went under. We knocked down a bungalow with single phase, and are nearing the end of building a replacement bungalow, and are trying to get the single phase meter upgraded to 3 phase. DNO and builder aligned and all looking good, however I rang EDF to inform them and after an hour on hold, and 3 departments I was transferred to someone who was very happy to discuss and plan it, until they explained the gas and power meter appointment would be on Friday. I queried this and she had no idea of 3 phase vs smart meter...she disappeared for another 10 mins before she came back and said the appointments team would call me to book in the "phase 3" meter install. They have no phone number for me to call, I have to wait for them to call me. I knew EDF are a bunch of morons at the best if time... But for 3 depts and no one to know what to do has me fed up, as yet more time invested to baby sit this bloody build. Anyone have any experiences here or with EDF? Have I been fobbed off, or is there an actual chance they will call back and book in the swap??

Just a bump as we are rapidly needing to make a decision for our door here. Just welcome any feed back from people in the routes they went down?

Hmm, not liking the sound of this. So avoid a smart meter or else take a hit?

Try gumtree or facebook first, then consider it an investment I to a useful contact. Farmers are always useful people to know!!

Echo the above, we are tiling where appliances will go, but not elsewhere under units. There is no other way of changing the kitchen layout design, so am easy £300 odd saved!

Wait for it all to be dry then empty a litre of strong bleach down it, and leave for 24 hours, sometimes that can help.

Thanks, so they would want to install a connecting box on the external wall, that we spur into? They wouldn't fit that main spir onto an internal wall, from your experience with that chat?

Thanks, builder is a bit twitched on installing something that obviously looks like it will be ripped out in day 2 of moving in, having installed the wall already. Have to admit, when we settled on the wall several months ago I wasn't thinking it through at the time. Could a bannister simply be screwed through the stairs stringer into the block work behind? Rendering wall no longer required? Or even screwed through the tiles on the floor of steps, and grout/paint pen filled afterwards? This would factually speaking give a bannister, but building control arnt stupid... Would they smell a rat, and demand more 'permenance' ?

Hopefully this helps demonstrate... You can see the stun wall we have installed, but it needs to go up an extra block and the more we look at it, the more of an eye sore it appears. This looks much more naff, vs not having it and opening up more of the kitchen as you walk up.... (we are plaster boarding as we speak,hence sudden need to double check it)

Thanks, I may be wrong in imaging it...im not on site now...... but it is only 3 very ''casual' steps to the top. Just don't want to ring building control & use up any good will on such a ''small'' thing (in my mind!)

We have 3 large steps going into our kitchen area, total height of approx 700mm. The top of the stairs 'opens' into the large kitchen, but apparently we need a handrail either side of these steps. The challenge we have on one side of the stairs there is no wall to meet them, so we are needing to build a swarf wall approx 900mm tall by 600mm long to support a handrail. This is a really clunky design into an otherwise open kitchen. Does anyone know how 'hard & fast' this rule is? Ill give building control a call tomorrow, but i'm keen to know the exact rules, and 'Part M' docs are not revealing to me what I need to achieve. The stairs are 2m wide, and will have a bannister on one side! Many thanks,

Yep, should be good there! thanks

We received planning permission for an extension, and started ordering materials. It then turned out to be cheaper to do a knock down & rebuild....for which the planning permission was granted for this. However, we ordered materials before the ''rebuild '' planning came through..... but then used them for the new build itself. How would we approach this for VAT reclaim? Submit it all with a covering letter detailing it all out, or are we out of luck? Thanks

Turned a bad day into a good day, thank you Thor! That's will definitely save us some monies

Thanks Thor, I have seen the Gov list, so ill dig that out and go through it. I presume anything we have bought since he builder starter, that is on that list we pull together & submit (a process ill dig into myself). Thank you

We are doing a new build with a main contractor. The standard house etc is all 0% VAT rated obviously, but when we buy something large not included in the original sum (a new patio, wood burner stove etc) he pays for it, and charges us 9% for profit & overheads, but we don't pay the VAT. However, what are the rules if I buy large items myself (ie garage doors) and keep the receipt...can I claim back the VAT or do I only save the VAT if it goes through him? Welcome any guidance - thanks

Thanks, though not sure I follow your point... As in you can't join "my" preinstalled fibre to their fibre at the base of the pole my current location of will come off? (for the day FTTP arrives at our village)

Yet another clanger dropped.....arranged plant room for a BT broadband socket to be in the centre of a wall, next to the AV hub. All AV/network is prewired for it. Annoying, we then forgot to run a ducting to this location to enable a broadband cabling to be pulled through, outside to inside of room. Floor was concreted on Friday & so no more easy ducting runs. I am hoping to speak to builder on Monday to chase the the external wall (will be rendered) and run a ducting up the chase/cavity a 300-500mm, then into the room & along the wall behind cylinder/plumbing to reach this 'broad band'' point. However, whatever we do it the ducting/ease of using it is going to be compromised. As a result I want to try and get as much cabling in now before the cylinder etc goes in to block it off. As a result, does anyone know the cabling I should pre-run into the ducting before we bodge it in? Ideally for current copper but also FTTP. Many thanks,

Obvious comment from an obviously biased source. Not entirely wrong though....

Thanks guys, seeing as everything has already been strapped into place, best I can get is rockwool around it, and simulate the effect. Not perfect, but better then nothing. Ill ring rockwool to make sure, then stuff it up there!

That's idea! I'm hoping I can get away with handpacking vermiculite sheets tight around it, with some metal stripes to hold it up and I'm place. I'm worried about air tightness as well, but having been ruthlessly fastidious over the rest of the house, this area may need to be a compromise. I'll just use fire proof sealant all around all the exterior connections and hope for the best

We have 150mm insulation in our warm roof, insulated flu passes through it, but the installer explained has to be a 50mm zone around the flu. Is is simply the ''done thing'' to keep this 50mm an accepted cold spot going through the roof? Has anyone used vermiculate or rockwool around it? I figured they are non-combustibles and at the 2m height above the fireplace the stove insulated flu will not be so hot as to damage them. Welcome thoughts - thanks

Yikes, that escalated quick! OP, chill out... Geddit? (I'm joking) The locals speak the truth, if you want to cool properly stick to dedicated AC, MVHR is just to light and slow to make a meaningful difference. I looked into it before shitting myself into an extra £4k to install proper AC.