Andeh

Oh really? Because you end up with a really small delta T and ASHP struggles to compensate?

It's heat sandwiched between two layers of insulators. Wood on top, insulation before....the more you 'insulate' the bottom the more heat is retained for it to force its way through the wood... If you have (for example) 10mm insulation below the screed and 25mm of wood above more heat will be dissipated below the 10mm then above the wood. On the flip side if you have 200mm insulation below screed then your post is correct, wood will slow it down but temperature will eventually find its way through (though return temps will remain higher then if the heat could escape quicker....)

How much insulation do you have underneath? How thick is plywood and floor boards? Wood is an insulator technically, my parents had hardie floor at 22mm thick and 14mm thick floor boards and it did take a very high flow rate to really get the rooms warming up at a decent base. Then again, they only had 75mm insulation underneath....

DHW is for times periods per Cosy tariff, also DHW is cold in the morning so it isn't the water... Crank heater is an interesting one, I'll check external temps with the power usage. Would it heat the ashp even if its not being used? I presume heatmeiser/Samsung ashp has no comms for a pre warm function. Edit... Nope no relation to outside temp despite fluctuations below freezing up to 10 degrees. Even fridge freezer or normal appliance, for it to only ever start at 3am... Never any usage between 9pm and 3am when we are winding things down/going to bed.

Ever since we moved to Octopus energy & could track the 30min usage I have noticed something using electricity at 3am. It is generally speaking 0.8 - 1kwh from 3 to 3.30am then sort of half that from 3.30 to 4am. Sometime it peaks to 1.4kwh and 700w other times the usage is several 100w both 30min periods. ALWAYS ONLY between 3am and 4am. We have MVHR, ASHP, A/C, Dish Washer, American Fridge, Neff Oven & Neff Microwave, couple of laptops, Washing machine, Water Softener, PV, lots of external lights (PIR controlled, but disabled at night), robot hoovers. Detached bungalow with own self installed supply. ASHP ran in anger during Octopus Cosy periods, usage shows it kicking in like clockwork every morning at 4am. Heatmiser shows the periods. MVHR can see its usage drop post showers as we settle into the night A/C - off with no timed periods set (would also notice via Heatmiser app nay room temp changes) Dish Washer - triple checked it is coming on when it should, always around 5am Washing Machine - triple checked it is coming on when it should, we dont use it that often on timed Ovens/Microwaves - I doubt it Water Softener - no way it would draw that much, though checked its regen during the day and nope Outside Lights - only consumer about 100w when on as LED American Fridge - I cant see it using that power Robot Hoover - cant see it using that power Other then setting an alarm and walking around the house.... can anyone think of anything the above appliances might be doing at 3am!?!? Welcome any thoughts....

FWIW we have a 1ph 12kw unit, never occurred to me to get a 3ph...

Watching this thread with interest. We had 3 ph installed and our electrician sort of explained it as an everything comes in, mixes together and feeds everything out.... But then our electrician was a (expletive deleted)ing moron on anything other then the basics, so I don't know what he did behind the 3ph consumer unit. It all works, but when 22kw car chargers and 3ph solar get installed in years to come who knows what headaches I'm in store for.....

We had brickies who did the walls, who realised that tearing the ROCKWOOL insulation in half (splitting it depth wise) ment it would go twice as far and halve the time they spent up and down the ladders to fetch more... They thought I was OCD in demanding the wool batterns be fitted full width otherwise I end up with half the insulation, "it's too tight to fit... it's always over engineered... Half thickness is plenty insulation... You'll never notice... " Their argument of the house will be more then warm enough anyway had me livid. Every evening for weeks I had to refit all the insulation/drag it out, fit the two halves back together and tuck it in. Then had to check their work and drag the insulation up onto the scaffolding to force them to fit it properly. Arguing with stupid people, who are so stupid they don't realise how stupid they are.

Thanks for that! We are just starting to really look into this in anger. How did you go about ordering and finding a supplier for them? Any advice or recommendations? Thanks

The screed will force the 25mm upstand hard against the wall, and with the DPM etc it never even occurred to me that air could escape through to block and beam. Could run a thick bead of silicone along the interface between insulation and block?? Bigger fights more worth having elsewhere IMO, I don't see that air escape route being a thing in that location.

Get a bigger TV and centralise it by shifting it left?? Prob not be much more once you've removed, patched and repainted the wall and then drank £200 of wine to forget the mess you've made of it!

Thin layers of 25mm PIR carefully and rightly packed around every bit of it outside, expanding foam on any nooks, then tape over the top for good measure, then aluminium sheet over the top of it! That's what I did, ours were I beams so I got lots in the middle of it difficult for the I protrusion but then most of it was behind external blocks with insulation which helped. Try it out over a days work, and see what difference it makes. That looks like quite a large damp patch for condensation? Sure its not water ingress from driving rain around windows?

Go for large diameter, and slow RPM!

Yep, we have this issue in our mixer shower valves. On first use all were cold at maximum temperature, because they're all designed for a hot supply several degrees warmer. I adjusted them on, a crappy fiddly job, and at best could get them 'quite hot' but not much more. This also means at full cold they're still mildly warm. I do need to have another fiddle. Annoying as we paid a bloody fortunate for them. Our digital aqualisa works fine.

Yeah, it was more user error in my approach to the times. A friend helped me re approach it.... Basically Its grouping the rooms together.... NOT the time slots together. So now I have 3 profiles set up. The rooms I want to come on morning and evening (corridors, kitchen, bathrooms etc) are grouped in a profile... With 2 x time slots a day. The rooms I only want on in the morning (study, playroom) are in a profile with just a morning time slot. The rooms I only want evening (lounge) is in its own evening group. Hopefully this helps?

Could you post up pics once done? I need to consider similar on black!

As above, disabled it for the given reasons. I might run it once a month if we have guests & need an extra boost of extra hot water anyway!

50mm isn't enough for UFH, it'd probably work but wouldn't be efficient. You need at least double that. Can the slab be dug out? Only a couple days work, tool hire and a skip for the builder? Not all insulation is the same, PIR is the better kind so ensure you use that not the generic polystyrene you've got there.

Disappointing thing to have done!

We never asked... due to a rapid change from extension to full rebuild, offered by the builder with a decent 15% odd discount if we agreed to start in 5 weeks vs the expected 9-12 months. - Builder had a large last minute commercial cancellation hitting him at the 11th hour, and we were the closest project to him to fill the gap. The price he offered for the build we'd end up with included the floating corner, so we left them in. I would guestimate its near 5 figures of potential saving, had we stuck a single post at that corner & done it sensibly. The depth of foundations, sheer size of the steels, a month of delay due to some slight flex that was seen in the roof overhang steels (so the floating corner steels also then support two more steels that support the overhang....) and knock on design work to that corner of the house must have added up. Cold bridging was an issue & will be a compromise still I am sure..... Every bit of metal was infilled with PIR and foam, then the leading edge of the steels I applied a small strip of insulation likely butting up against the plasterboard. Basically did what little I could to micromanage the steels out of site with insulation best I could!

We have a touch sensitive mirror that does this. In the pitch darkness you can slight light from the LEDs but its probably 2% of the actual ''on'' illumination of the light, Always wondered why myself...

It's 1.5m horizontal, about 1.8 of actual overhang. Down the side it's only 800mm. About 23sqm of surface area based on the cladding we put on. Brick and block with some serious steels to hold it all up, especially as its a floating corner that is suspending the overhang! Sliders are 5m on one side and 3m other side.

If you plan to PM, accept a large portion of your life will be on hold for the later stages of the build . You need to be on site whilst trades are, evenings with be spent adjusting and updating plans and contingency, weekends spend tidying, adjusting and fixing what you didn't get to during the week.

Yes happy to, if you want to pm an email address I'll respond! I'm snowed under early week, but I'll come back to you.

Very exciting! Not a million miles off our design.... Good luck!